Thank you everyone. I just picked up my new TAB 320S and I have the same issue. The dealer said they ordered a new top for me. However, after looking at it, I don't see how a new glass top will solve the problem entirely. It appears that my hinges are not correct. The 'upright' position appears to be approximately half-way open (at about a 45 degree angle)....coupled with the fact that it will not open fully because it hits the window trim. Maybe I'm just not fully understanding the 'fix'. Otherwise. love the camper so far!
I wonder how a 12 volt air conditioner would work? They do make them but draw a LOT of amps! That way no inverter needed. As humans we NEED projects Art
No, @Sharon_is_SAM, we've never been to Gila. Also, I got your Valley of Fires in NM mixed up with Valley of Fire in NV where we went. So, I was way off base with my reply.
What "online dewinterization" were you looking at? Something that closely resembles your Tab? "Pull Valves" meaning which valves?
"Open Valves" for the low point drains (hot, cold, fresh) are good. Nautilus owners seem to overlook the Famous Yellow Flapper valves, which you called the "bypass valves". They are out of sight, out of mind, and the NuCamp videos seem to have forgot them also. Checking them should be part of your process to winterize or dewinterize. Some winterizers leave them open to remind themselves the system has been winterized. The cold water low point drain will take out a considerable amount from the Alde tank, also.
For number 3: the "2.5" cups of bleach is..a lot. In one of the NuCamp videos from a couple of years ago, they said "1/2 cup per gallon of water". Which made owners add waaaay too much bleach into the fresh tank. It should read "1/2 cup into a gallon of water.....and then add that gallon of water into a full tank" . For the 320, and the 11 gallon fresh water tank, the usual amount is 1/4 cup for the entire full tank.
So, you should use 1/2 cup of bleach to your gallon of water, and add that to a full fresh water tank. Much more than 1/2 cup will require quite a lot of flushing the system to get the bleach smell out.
You are on the right track. This thread from a couple of years ago has one owners discussion of this process. In the thread, there is a link to a de-winterizing thread here in this group that also describes this process.
And, a discussion of that video that this group spotted the day it came out, and the wrong amount of bleach. NuCamp has never fixed it.
Just for anyone wondering if they can run a TaB air conditioner on a solar/battery system, the answer is yes, but not practical in a TaB. At a minimum you will need a 3,000 watt inverter and at least 300-400 amp hour Lithium battery bank, which will give you about 6 hrs of AC operation, after that you will need to recharge. A 300 amp battery bank will require a minimum of 300 watts of solar panels, 400 watts would be better.
The solar/battery system has to be matched, you,can figure on 100 useable amp hours for every 1000 watts of AC load, requiring a minimum of 100 watts of solar panels to recharge the battery. Doubling the available charging to 200 watts per 100 amps of battery will decrease your recharge time and optimize the recharging system.
Also he solar controller has to be matched to the solar panel size, 200 watts of solar requires a 15amp controller, 400 watts a 20-30 amp controller. A factory TaB 320 solar domes with 105 watt solar panel and 10 amp solar controller. The size of the wires from the panel to the controller and from the controller to,the battery also need to match. The larger the amps the bigger the wire you will need. cheers