Air Conditioning Unit Change Out - 2015 T@B Max S

Michigan_Mike

I decided to change out the AC unit on my 2015 T@B and install a digital air conditioning unit to allow me the ability to turn it on/off and control the unit via remote control.   It actually was much simpler than anticipated and I wanted to share some information to make this process easier for others who attempt this down the road.   I'm also aware that there are other discussions on this process, but decided to share my experience as there are a few extra things that you can glean from my experience that might save you a little time and hopefully you will gain some peace of mind and courage enough to change yours out, while adding a nice update to your trailer too!  

One of the first things you want to do is turn off the 110 V power that feeds the trailer to eliminate power to the electric receptacle that the AC unit plugs in to.    


      

Remove the trim around the front of the AC unit by removing the two screws  on front.  The trim can then be gently removed and placed off to the side.  The unit also has two long screws that come up from the bottom and hold the AC unit intact.  These two screw must be removed and once removed, will allow for easy removal of the AC unit.  You will see the screw heads beneath the unit and just behind the front wood face of AC storage rack.  

          

The electric receptacle outlet will also need to be temporarily removed to allow for easy removal of the power cord when your old unit is taken out of the holding area above the bench on the driver's side of the trailer.  The power cord remains intact on the old AC unit (no dis-assembly is required) and the new unit can be easily slipped into the opening once the old unit is removed.  The face plate needs to be gently pried off from electric receptacle and is held in place by two small tabs (shown) on face plate.   Once you remove the two screws holding the receptacle to the wood you can move it to the side and the power cord can now be removed.  


   

This is what the empty rack looks like and as noted in the earlier write-up you will need to clean the drip pan out beneath the AC unit as there is dirt, grime, etc. in this area.  I used a few damp paper towels and Windex to clean the pan and wipe it dry.  You will also find that the old unit contains a pre-fabbed aluminum cowling that is taped to the back of the unit.  This was used because the old unit did not extend far enough to the trailer wall and the cowling was used to suck fresh air into the AC unit and allow it to perform efficiently.   The new unit is longer by about 3-1/2" and you will not need to use the cowling since the new unit sits up against the louvered vent fresh air intake area.  Once the pan has been cleaned you can lift the new unit up and onto the storage rack.  

You will notice that the new unit has metal legs beneath it.  You can now re-install the two long holding screws, trim piece and electric receptacle and face plate.  Plug new unit in, power up the trailer and be cool!  

Important Note: One thing I will add as something of importance to do in the above install.   Look at the old unit, specifically underneath the bottom pan of the old AC unit and see if there are any drain holes or water exit points on the bottom portion of the air conditioning unit.   I say this because some friends also changed out their AC unit, converted to the digital model and later experienced some leaking or overflow of condensation from the unit.  I was told by the factory to drill about 4 holes in the bottom of the new unit so that any condensation and water can drain down into the pan beneath the unit.   This should eliminate the problem, but be careful when drilling so as not to damage anything above.  

Nomad

So, it looks like those two screws in the last photo don't actually screw into the AC unit, just block it from sliding firward - or do they screw into something?

Michigan_Mike

PXLated said:

So, it looks like those two screws in the last photo don't actually screw into the AC unit, just block it from sliding forward - or do they screw into something?

They basically keep it from sliding out.   I didn't look at the old unit and the old model did have a plastic bottom.  When I re-installed the new unit and screwed the screws back up into the storage area they were positioned precisely off the metal legs shown in the photo above.  The new unit is as snug as a bug in a rug!  The front trim also adds some stability in anchoring it back in the storage area too.  

jdargis

I think I missed the post on what specific make and model, you replaced the factory unit.
Thanks

jdargis

Also, how does the filter remove for cleaning, or do you need to pull the a/c out?

jdargis

One more question, do the drain holes from the a/c stay over the existing drain pan, just wondering, because of it extending the extra 3 1/2 inches?
Sorry, no more ?'s tonight.
Thanks

Verna

Yes, the drain holes do stay over the drain pan.

Verna

I ordered the same A/C unit, received it late yesterday (the poor UPS guy was late, looked so frazzled and tired).  

But anyway, I was able to do this changeout in less than 90 minutes from opening the box and then sitting there enjoying the temp falling 9  degrees in about 10 minutes. I admit to just using Mike 's instructions and not looking at the printed instructions. 

Here's the link from Mike's previous post:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-5-000-BTU-Window-Air-Conditioner-FFRA0522R1/206673482?keyword=Model+#+206673482

Fridgidaire FFRA0522R1 5,000 BTU

I ordered it online from Home Depot, with free shipping to my house.

Sharon_is_SAM

Verna and Mike, what  was the purpose of the change out?  Does the digital allow better control. Does the unit cool better?  Which brand are you replacing?  Thanks

Verna

@SAM, it is unusual for me to replace an appliance that has nothing wrong with it. The original is a Frigidaire, also.

While the remote is nice with the new one, you can still use the face panel for all functions. The reason I bought the new one was because the new one has 4 ways to adjust the direction of the flow of air. The old one had only 3 ways. This may not be important to others, but to direct the flow of air to the bed, the cold air would hit the wall above my head and fall onto my head. In the summer, if I had an electric site, my head was always cold. Then there was that night that 12  lbs Sunny pushed me out of the way because she wanted that cold air on her!  So, not only can I direct half of the air forward to the door and I can direct just half towards the bed so the air seems to flow better throughout the T@B with the new one

There is also an economy mode which, if I understand it correctly, causes the fan does to  turn off when the desired temp is reached. That would be nice. This unit is much quieter than the original, so that will be a plus. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Thank you.  I was not sure if this model seemed to be under powered like the Danby.

Verna

@SAM, I had only a light and the A/C running and I had the unit on low.  It took the temp from 86* down to 77* so quickly and that was with the outside door still open!  I didn't try it on high, so that is actually a bigger plus over the original, come to think of it. I always had to run the original on high to get the inside cool enough and then I was freezing by morning. 

Nomad

Verna - In looking at the vent on the pic, it looks the same as on the factory installed Frigidair. Could you explain your statement on how the air flow is different. That my beef with my A/C, directing the cool air.

jdargis

How does the filter come out for cleaning?

Verna

@PXLated, the two sides of the air vent at the top move independently of each other--upward or downward. The old one's air vents moved at the same time, up and down. The little "stir-type" paddles still operate the same, but since you can direct some flow to the kitchen and some to the bed, it spreads the air out.  

Verna

@jdargis, it still slides out to the right. I think I like the method of taking the trim and front panel off to clean it . I know I'll crack the filter just as I cracked the first one ;(. But, I could meet up with @PXLated to let him take out the filter for me to clean it

Nomad

Ok, where I got confused is hitting the link to the Home Depot page for the A/C unit - it shows a different vent sytem that is identical to mine and different than the one above...

Tabaz

PXL - the picture of Mike's unit above is different from the one on the HomeDepot link a few posts up.  The HD unit appears to have the same "old style" 3-Way vent even though it does have the electronic controls. 

Verna

Now, I understand the confusion. The unit I have, which is the model number in the link, is the same as Mike's photo. @PXLated, look at the separate controls in Mike's photo.  You can see the different sides to the air flow. Sorry, I didn't compare the link to my actual unit. 

ericnliz

Verna, So, What Is the link to the one Mike purchased, or Mike could chime in too! Sorry, I'm as confused as PXL. Must be drinkin' the same coffee!

Verna

If you use the link that I mentioned above, this is what you will receive. The website has the wrong photo for what Mike and I received. (The link has the same part number that the box has, and the photo on the box is what I received.)

ericnliz

Thanks for the clarification, appreciated as always!

Fatman1966

Verna or Mike from a scale of 1 to 10 with (10) being the hardest what is the overall difficulty level of changing out the unit? I'm fairly mechanical inclined but I'm not good with wood working at all. 

Verna

@Fatman1966, I would say 2 for a person who can lift 37 lbs into the opening. You don't need woodworking skills because the opening is large enough for the new model. You will need a #1 square drive bit or screwdriver. Mechanical knowledge isn't really needed. You take one out, remember how you took it out and put the new one in.  

For those who might have problems lifting the 37 lbs, leave the old A/C unit on your table under the opening. Put the new one on top of it, which leaves only about 6" that you have to lift the new one into the opening. Use your head, not your brute strength or lack thereof.

jdargis

Picked ours up at Best Buy- Store special $152.  Going to install next week.  Thanks for the information.

rfuss928

When I did my CoolCat replacement there were several very similar models to the one I chose with different BTU ratings.  They all had the same case dimensions.  I was able to get an 8000 btu unit that was the same case size as the 5000 btu unit.  That extra capacity seems helpful on those hot and humid days.  I don't know the particulars of these overhead installations but would suggest looking into higher capacity models that may be in a very similar size case.

Also, Mike, are you sure the "cowling" is not necessary with the new unit?  It is critical to keep the hot exhaust air exiting the rear separated from the inlet air that enters the sides and top.  That cowling or baffle was a fix for chronic cooling issues with the early overhead AC installations IIRC.

Just sharing some lessons learned.
Have fun!
Bob

jkjenn

Thanks @Michigan_Mike and @Verna. This looks like a straightforward exchange. I might do this and also add the fan. I could use a quieter a/c. Right now, when hooked up, I have to turn it off to make a phone call. I would also like the economy mode.

jdargis

Just exchanged out our unit. 

Most difficult part- getting the old unit out, the feet hung up on the drip tray,  used a large flathead screwdriver to maneuver up and out.

Easy part- slipping the new unit in place.

Best part- the cooling of the unit seems far superior to the old unit, which was a Frigidaire.

Only disappointment- I thought for some reason the two vents rotated down, out and up, but only out and up.  So will still retain my wooden air deflector for now and decide if I need it, after our upcoming 3 week Yellowstone trip.

Great instructions and info!  Once again thanks!

Ratkity

So the concensus is that the Frigidare is still a quality unit, but 8000 btu (same size as 5000 btu) would be great for these horrid summers when you have no shade.  The remote control is a major bonus and easier to regulate the temp (as opposed to the dial) and there's an Econo mode where the fan isn't blowing continuously.a Cowling being needed is still up in the air (pun). One technical question: How would the 2000w generators (any brand) handle the increased btu to 8000?

rfuss928

My 8000btu Frigidare draws 7 amps maximum (~800 watts).  It should be no problem for a 2kw generator.

jdargis

My question, would there be enough airflow for a larger btu unit.  Room air conditioners are not enclosed in a box, so there is no restrictive air movement.  I would hate to spend the money on a new unit and have it shut down from overheating.  The mechanic at our T@B dealer, thought the T@G totally enclosed a/c had 5 fans for air displacement.  I not sure, bigger is always better with our a/c being enclosed.