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Is an Electric Jack installation on 2020 T@b 400 possible given battery location

[Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 92
edited October 2019 in Battery/Electrical & Solar
The battery is in the back under the bed on passenger side I believe since the cut off switch is back there in the outdoor compartment. Is there a way to easily (key word “easily”) install an electric jack on a 400 since the electric jack has to connect to the battery? 
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    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,500
    Could you run the wiring between the belly pan up through the floor to the battery?
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    edited October 2019
    @Missstsomewhere, check out the @Dalehelman tongue jack handle mod that make it easy to jack up your 400. All you need when the mod is completed is a cordless drill and a 3/4” socket adapter. It’s easy to use and no more cranking. And no need to run power to the tongue.

    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/1395/power-tongue-jack-cost-less-than-a-buck/p1
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 92
    Awesome!! This is perfect! 
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    falcon1970falcon1970 Member Posts: 755
    @Missstsomewhere
    If it is still of interest to you, I finally found photo of the junction box in the front of the TAB.  It is located on front of the crossmember just above the spare tire.  Lug 1 and lug 7 should provide power to an electric jack.


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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    While I can not be certain without tracing the actual circuits, I'm a little skeptical of the labeling in that photo. Given the number of connections and the colors of the wires, I'd say Lug 6 is the 12V/battery positive and Lug 7 is the ground/battery negative.
    It looks pretty much like the box on my 320...
     
    2015 T@B S

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    BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,299
    edited October 2019
    @ScottG, I have similar concerns, but have not taken a closer look at where the wiring actually goes.  It is too bad that nuCamp does not provide a clear wiring diagram for that junction box, particularly since we all know that although there may be one color wire at the junction box, it may be a totally different color downstream.

    @falcon1970, what is the source of the photo that you posted?  How confident are you in its accuracy?

    Do either of you have any comments/input on the diagram or notations on the junction box wiring diagram posted by @MuttonChops (who may want to provide input as well) in the below conversation thread?  The comment at the bottom of that drawing re the brake wiring appears to contradict other information provided on this forum; in particular, @ScottG's comments about the wiring between the battery and the electric brakes.

    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9025/battery-doesnt-seem-to-be-charging-while-driving#latest
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite; 2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


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    falcon1970falcon1970 Member Posts: 755
    @Bayliss
    That is a photo I took when I was changing my taillights to add backup lights.  I won't offer a warranty but I'm pretty confident it is accurate for a TAB 400.  Of course, with the way nuCamp changes things it might only be accurate for my 400!  Wire colors are a notoriously inaccurate way to decode wiring runs.  There is simply no standardized system.  The only safe way to determine what goes where is to either trace the wires out or to use a multimeter to check the circuits.
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    BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,299
    Thanks @falcon1970.  I had a suspicion that it might be the 400 wiring, which is likely to have differences from the 320.  Even the fuse placement (and size) in the converter is different on various builds of the same model camper.  This can lead to confusion in questions and responses on this forum (e.g., lack of clarity of the specific model [3010 vs. 3020] we are discussing is a notorious problem when the Alde is the topic.)  We are not always on the same page, so to speak, due to those occasional differences.
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite; 2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    edited October 2019
    While there are variations to the color codes of pigtail wiring, I can confirm that my pigtail follows the traditional RV 7-way blade configuration (below). The pigtail wiring arrangement (including color coding) appears to be identical in the photos of the 320 and 400 junction boxes.
    Regardless, in virtually all pigtail color schemes the blue wire operates the electric brakes and the white wire is the ground. In addition, the 12V+ is usually black since red is typically used for one of the signal circuits. 
    Not trying to create an argument, just drawing the most probable conclusion based on the available evidence.


    2015 T@B S

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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,427
    edited October 2019
    Bayliss said:
    ...
    Do either of you have any comments/input on the diagram or notations on the junction box wiring diagram posted by @MuttonChops (who may want to provide input as well) in the below conversation thread?  The comment at the bottom of that drawing re the brake wiring appears to contradict other information provided on this forum; in particular, @ScottG's comments about the wiring between the battery and the electric brakes.

    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9025/battery-doesnt-seem-to-be-charging-while-driving#latest
    @Bayliss, @MuttonChops' diagrams appears correct to me. I think the comment you reference is a bit ambiguous but not necessarily contradictory. The ambiguity lies in one's interpretation of direct. The + battery line is  connected to the breakaway brakes via the #6 pin in the junction box. However, most T@Bs have switch on the + positive battery line that will break that connection if it is turned off. The battery is not connected to the breakaway brakes via a single continuous wire.
    2015 T@B S

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    MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,594

    Agree figure and text combination were confusing.
    Have changed the Figure to include Cut-Off Switch and Battery.


    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  51   Nights:  322  Towing Miles 41,200+
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    BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,299
    @MuttonChops and @ScottG, thank you both very much for the additional info/clarification.
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite; 2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


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    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,500
    @MuttonChops, I know my battery monitor shunt connects to the negative side of the battery circuit.  Not sure if that is true for all shunts, but shouldn’t it connect to pin # 7?


    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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    MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,594
    Sharon_is_SAM said:
    @MuttonChops, I know my battery monitor shunt connects to the negative side of the battery circuit.  Not sure if that is true for all shunts, but shouldn’t it connect to pin # 7?


    Figure does not show all the ground wire connections. (Figure was created mainly for my use)
    You are correct, for any Current Monitor System to correctly measure the full battery current drain the Shunt must be between the Battery and all loads.


    In your comment you have circled the Display part of the Current Monitor System which requires a power source.

    The installed Current Shunt/Monitor System is two pieces; a Shunt and a Display, these pieces communicate data by Blue-tooth radio. The Shunt itself is located in the TUB and connected to the Battery Negative Terminal and then to the Junction Box. The Current Monitor Display is located near the front window and powered by a USB outlet.  Detailed wiring of the system in next image.

    The Display was placed after the +12VDC Cut-Off Switch so the Display would not draw current when not in use. Specifically when the TaB is in storage and the small Solar Panel is maintaining the Battery. Only loads on Battery being the Solar Controller (at night) and Shunt (sensor circuit and blue-tooth).

    Hope all that helped to clarify.

    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  51   Nights:  322  Towing Miles 41,200+
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    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,500
    Thanks @MuttonChops!
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    I have the same question, but after all of these interesting comments, I don't see that the question was answered. I want to know if connection to the 12V battery is possible because the installation of the electric jack itself seems easy to do.
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    Can someone verify if this comment is correct and is there a way to easily get to the junction box shown in the photo? I have a 2020 Tab 400 Boondock solo. "If it is still of interest to you, I finally found photo of the junction box in the front of the TAB.  It is located on front of the crossmember just above the spare tire.  Lug 1 and lug 7 should provide power to an electric jack."
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone verified with Nucamp if this is the recommended way to connect to the battery?
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    edited July 2021
    There would be no reason you couldn't access the battery power at the junction block. There is a 40 Amp breaker that I believe is inline but I doubt the power jack draws anywhere near that.

    Brad
    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    Per a previous post, Do you get to "the junction box in the front of the TAB, which is located on front of the crossmember just above the spare tire, Lug 1 and lug 7 should provide power to an electric jack" on the inside of the tab 400? If so, then I would need to drill a hole so the electric jack could connect to it. That sounds a bit risky and I'm not sure how Nucamp would think of that. I left a message with them and should probably ask a dealer as well.
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    The junction box is external mounted on the frame. If you follow the wires form the 7 pin connector, you will find it.

    Brad
    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    I will check that out the next time I'm at the camper. Thanks for the tip.
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    Michigan_DennisMichigan_Dennis Member Posts: 12
    I followed the 7 pin and it didn't seem to have a junction box there. This is on the shower side of the Tab400. Of course, I'm not very nimble anymore, so I might have missed it. I did see where it went into the area where the battery is under the bed. There is also a cable coming out of the door side of the camper from under the propane storage bin, which does seem to have a junction box.?
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