I second the pump setting. Mine made a horrible gurgling sound and it drove me crazy. I turned down the pump setting and I get zero gurgling now. There are still some other noises from the system but the gurgling was the worst. Problem solved.
In such a scenario I would probably resist my initial urge to just grab onto it with a bare hand, but I'm not really sure what I would do otherwise...
First thing the old brain said was Stop Don't Touch It. Everything handy was metal so got a glove out of my TV then struck not grabbed the wrench and it popped out.
After searching T@B for fire returned to get wrench, it was still too hot to touch.
Hey all, This is proving to be an interesting thread with lots to unpack and think about. The differences in vehicle design and battery management are an ongoing issue that will no doubt prove to be a subject of ongoing research. That said, I don't mean to add to the obfuscation here but there are some basics that need to be looked at as well. First, assuming there is a direct battery connection between the TV (tow vehicle) battery and the 7 way plug, that means that whenever the trailer plug is connected there is a parallel circuit connecting the two batteries, whether the engine is running or not. It's possible that on some vehicles, when the ignition is off the trailer battery circuit is disconnected but for this discussion anyway, that's neither here nor there. Assuming there's a parallel circuit connecting the two batteries, the batteries will work to even each other out. The higher voltage battery will push to charge the lower voltage one until they are of matched voltage. The closer they are voltage-wise, the longer that will take. Nevertheless, they will push/pull until they match voltage. As I said, this will happen regardless of whether the engine is running or not. If the TV is running, the ecm will sense the (approximate) average voltage of both batteries. In layman's terms, if the TV battery is 14 volts and the trailer battery is 12 volts the ecm will see about 13 volts and respond accordingly. Regardless of what kind of vehicle it is, the ecm is smart, but not THAT smart. It (the ecm) cannot see separate voltages for the two batteries, only the average of both. This, again, assumes they are wired in parallel and not run through a battery management system such as a smart controller. What I've not seen discussed here that needs to be is the very basics of circuitry. If you have a 10 gauge wire going out to charge your trailer battery, then you need "at least" a 10 gauge ground wire coming back through the trailer connector. Most trailer connectors (in my experience) have quite small 16 or maybe 14 gauge wires going out to the trailer. This includes the ground wire. Remember that all of the voltage out to the trailer for lights, refrigerators, charge lines etc, must run back through the same single ground wire to the TV. If you have a 16 or even a 14 gauge ground wire in your trailer connector, then when the lights are on, that's about all the capacity that ground wire has. There are a lot of lights on a trailer and it's a long way back there. Now, in addition to the lights and other stuff, you add the current requirements of a 20 or 30 amp charging circuit and you're asking too much of the ground circuit. You've got 6 wires going out hot to the trailer and all of that potential voltage (amperage) must return on 1 ground wire. If your lights take a maximum of, say, 12 amps, then you add 20 amps from the charging line, you need a ground wire with a minimum capacity of 32 amps. It stands to reason that the total potential capacity of the ground wire must be equal to the total capacity of all the hot wires combined. If you limit the capacity of the ground circuit, you limit the amperage going out to the trailer. The voltage, as seen with a meter or gauge, will be the same or nearly so between the TV and trailer but the amperage available will be drastically less. It's the same as filling two 1 gallon jugs of water from the same pump, but one hose is 1/2" and the other is 1/8". The pressure (voltage) will be the same in both hoses but the volume (amperage) will be very different. The larger diameter hose will fill its jug first every time. It's safe to say that many folks are experiencing problems charging because the trailer ground is too small for the capacity of the combined load of lights and charging circuit. This is easy to check without doing a whole bunch of wiring. Just add a jumper wire (10 gauge) that bolts from the trailer frame to the TV frame. I suspect you'll see a dramatic reduction in charge time.
I have run 10 gauge wire from the trailer plug to the battery for BOTH my charge line and my trailer ground (dedicated ground) on: My Toyota Rav4, my Jeep Cherokee and my Jeep Wrangler and have never experienced problems with my trailer battery draining while towing. I leave my refrigerator on all the time, run electric brakes and have a full compliment of lights.
It only shows from the 7 way plug to Junction to Converter to Battery for my 400.
It does not show the inverter wiring or solar charger PWM. But I was told after the Solar PWM, the wiring is directly connected to the battery, with a 30 amp fuse inline on the positive lead. So the solar panels are always charging the battery if the panels are able to. Note: For those who stage their solar charger PWM/MPPT via the 7 way plug, the disconnect switch is between the plug and battery. This also means if one stores their 400 in an area where the panels do not receive a charge, the PWM is a small drain on the battery! Might want to consider removing the PWM 30 amp fuse.
The Inverter is also directly connected to the battery and is able to run if both the AC is disconnected and battery cutoff switch is off.
Just came back from our trip from MA to Fairbanks. By far...the Yukon and British Colombia are the most "wild and spectacular" provinces in Canada! Great dry camping just off the roadside, as well as beautiful Provincial Parks. Saw a great deal of wildlife in these two provinces...herds of bison, brown and black bears, wild horses, mountain goats to name just a few. Traveled home on the Trans Canadian...and each province offers its own unique beauty...but the Yukon and BC are a must if possible!
Our minivan hitch probably has the least clearance of all the TVs out there. We use one of those coated, bendable wires to keep the chains from hanging too low. It works well and it is a bright color that reminds us to use it.
Indeed, as @ChanW suggested, it appears that my issue was with a kink in the fresh water tank air vent line, which is not accessible. (Did not need to try the 'reverse water pressure' tank fitting above.)
First I confirmed the problem still existing by filling the fresh water tank to 'running out on ground', and it primed the pump fine. However faucets again began sputtering after only minimal use of the tank water. Using something I remember reading in another thread, I ran a length of heavy weed wip line into the port/hole above the water fill as shown below. I encountered some resistance about half way in, and was able to push through it before bottoming out and solid stop.
After this 'lining' of the tank's air/exhaust port, much much more water (11
gallons plus the Alde hot side, I think) twas required to fill than in my experience and I heard even more gurgling and sound as the tank reached the upper 1/3 or so on the way to actually full. And
I've since have no issues with priming the tank, nor of loss of priming while using tank water.
The result of a clogged or kinked tank vent line (clear plastic tubing inside wall) then is that I likely never had the water tank even half full in the past. Water would stop going in the fill port. (My 2015 CSS has no SeaLevel meter.) run out on the ground quite early. Filling it about half full (but not less) in this way then allowed me to successfully prime the water pump, but then would quickly 'un-prime' after after using only a couple gallons or so, probably at about 1/3 or less of the tank.
That's seems to be it. Quite a relief as I figured I had additional damage the first year in the form of a crack and air leak somewhere in trying to winterize as a new owner (described in another thread). I'll update if otherwise on my next outing, next week.
Re: NuCamp Warranty Service