Best Of
Re: Floor Buckling in kitchen area
Thanks Sharon. I'll take a better look when I'm back at my trailer in a month
Re: Kink in Alde hose
Well, that is.....something.
The 22mm hoses that Alde uses are the most basic EPDM hoses you can buy. Since there is no "pressure" in the glycol loop, they are unreinforced hoses.
Alde does have a couple of "bend" hoses on their page, but you really have to dig through their web page.
That is a 90...and I think there are a couple of different shapes.
I replaced a couple of 90 degree bends, and added slightly longer hoses in a couple of places. I removed that elbow with the bleed valve in my 2017. Seeing as how I would have to disassemble my trailer to make adjustments, I didn't see any point in leaving it there. The next time I replace the glycol, I may add a newer model of the bleeder in a more reasonable spot.
This is the type of hose I bought for the changes I made. These are "reinforced", and you need either 7/8th or 22 MM sized hose. This stuff was a bit more flexible than the original Alde hose. I know this can probably be found at many sources, so shop around.
I bought 90 degree bends from here. This search was for "45 degree 22mm epdm". There are more like this.
Re: Alde not turning on
To answer your two questions, the red wire that came loose has a half inch long solid silver colored metal tip, same as the black wire. These push into mating openings in the plug and I assume are simply a tight friction fit. When fully inserted they make contact with the circuit board contacts.
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!
Re: Alde not turning on
Thanks so much @Grumpy_G and @pthomas745. I managed by sheer coincidence to find the source of the dead Alde. It was a disconnected power wire in the black wiring/communication box on top of the unit. I've attached 2 photos of what I found and also 1 showing where I found and checked glass fuses. One is obvious but the other is hidden in the green fuse case I've pointed to. By the way, @pthomas745 is correct that there is a white ground wire leading to the BB battery negative terminal.
T@B 400 Alde corrosion
I'm in the process of fixing the Alde corrosion issue on my 2020 tab 400 BL. Because there doesn't seem to be much information here for the 400. I was asked to post my progress here in hopes it could be useful to other owners.
I noticed a bulge on the hose that houses the check valve in the Alde compartment last week. Knowing what this means, I started slowly disassembling areas that have convectors, starting with the bed. I changed the fluid (yellow with yellow) last spring, 3 years after purchase. 1 year late, because I didn't know you were supposed to do it every 2 years. My mistake. Though, given the degree of corrosion, I doubt it would have mattered.
Mark Turney's hypothesis about hoses under downward pressure being far more susceptible to extreme corrosion, seems to be spot on.
I then moved to the one under the wetbath. I was able to get the left hose off and clean it. Then reinstalled the hose further out on the stub. So there's less surface area (in theory) being exposed to the glycol. I haven't tried the right side yet, but I'm not sure I'll be able to get it off. So I'm saving it for later.
Next was the kitchen. Pop off the plastic covers, back out the screws (Roberts head) and removed the boards. This one is almost pristine.
Now I'm to the dinette. Having to dismantle this area took some effort. I'll probably check the convectors on either side. Then deal with the center.
There's a lot going on behind the center dinette. So I need to really think about how I'm going to go about removing the top. Since it seems to be more than just screws holding it together.
And this is where I'm at now. I'll post more pictures and info on my experience as I get further along.
I noticed a bulge on the hose that houses the check valve in the Alde compartment last week. Knowing what this means, I started slowly disassembling areas that have convectors, starting with the bed. I changed the fluid (yellow with yellow) last spring, 3 years after purchase. 1 year late, because I didn't know you were supposed to do it every 2 years. My mistake. Though, given the degree of corrosion, I doubt it would have mattered.
Mark Turney's hypothesis about hoses under downward pressure being far more susceptible to extreme corrosion, seems to be spot on.
I then moved to the one under the wetbath. I was able to get the left hose off and clean it. Then reinstalled the hose further out on the stub. So there's less surface area (in theory) being exposed to the glycol. I haven't tried the right side yet, but I'm not sure I'll be able to get it off. So I'm saving it for later.
Next was the kitchen. Pop off the plastic covers, back out the screws (Roberts head) and removed the boards. This one is almost pristine.
Now I'm to the dinette. Having to dismantle this area took some effort. I'll probably check the convectors on either side. Then deal with the center.
There's a lot going on behind the center dinette. So I need to really think about how I'm going to go about removing the top. Since it seems to be more than just screws holding it together.
And this is where I'm at now. I'll post more pictures and info on my experience as I get further along.
Re: Propane system malfunction
@Sage - unless you have a generator or adequate solar and battery capacity with an inverter, you can’t use any AC appliance.
Close your propane regulator and then open it very slowly. There is a safety mechanism that engages to prevent flow when the tank is opened too quickly. Try that. I believe that there is a secondary regulator somewhere downstream, but I am not sure where. Let’s see what others can add. Have you contacted your dealer or nuCamp?
Re: true wireless trailer lights?
Thanks Scott, I checked e-trailer, and found something but is full towing kit with stealth hitch and trailer wiring. I'll take it from there to see if I can find just the wiring. I was hoping not to have to cut and splice. TV is Porsche Macan, and the nearest dealer is a two day drive if the re-wiring causes any computer reaction. Hence my search for something different. First world problem. 
Re: WFCO 8955-AD and WFCO 8735-AD jumper
Wire size determines its resistance over a given length and therefore the power dissipated over that same length for the current flowing. An 8ga wire is allowed to carry 55A in a THHN insulated wire (90degC allowed). The fusing should be 40A...which it is in the stock setup. For anecdotal reference I have 200AH Lithium with a 50A breaker (GLOSO). With the batteries about 20% I drew about 52A charging current peak for maybe as much as 30 minutes which dramatically reduced over the next hours as the batteries charged. In a low charge situation with the stock 40A breaker will trip after a few minutes at 50ish Amps (working as designed to keep the 60degC limit). Being an electrical engineer by trade I am eyes wide open and personally okay with a short term 50A flow in the 8ga wiring, which is another way of saying I am not carte blanche recommending changing the breaker to 50A!Robermcm said:one question i have is whether the nu_camp installed wiring between converter and battery is adequate to support the deep drain lithium charging amperage from this converter once it is indeed running at lithium levels. I’d think nu_camp would be all over that, but there was some chatter about the length of the runs of wiring and whether that was stopping the auto detect from staying at lithium. Over my head, but I’d not want to create unsafe levels of amperage. If my 40 amp battery disconnect breaker is up to installed charging wire amperage capacity, are they both less than the 8955 (as in 55a?) can supply?
Reportedly the WFCO is sensing a current draw of more than 20A to switch to Li mode. The 8ga wiring would not prevent that. I can attest (as would others) that the unit does indeed switch to Li in this case. The problem is it can and does revert to lead acid mode under some conditions.
My guess is there is an adjustment on the WFCO which would limit the 55A to less than that, but likely not something WFCO would let slip as the same adjustment would allow more than 55A and overstress the unit.
Re: How do you handle your wet bathroom floor?
Wouldn’t it be great if that bathroom porthole window opened to get some air moving through?Verna said:
Also I found that leaving a soaking wet towel or microfiber cloth in the closed up bathroom is a good way for the towel or cloth to “go sour” (that was the term my parents always used). I installed hooks outside the bathroom door and use plastic clips to hang the wet towels or cloths so they can dry properly.