Norcold 3163 - How to remove fridge for burner box orifice replacement and cleaning, with videos

FuzzyYanni

UPDATES (July 2023):

We have sucessfully removed and re-installed the 3-way NORCOLD 3163 fridge from our 2009 FD T@DA
Here are photos and videos which should be helpful, if you are also considering this task
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZHh1pLKPQxeZs2Rs7

- I have previously managed to replace the spark igniter withour fridge removal.
- I believe it may be possible to replace the thermocoupler without removal although you will need to spray the thermocoupler and gasket with a bit of soapy water in order to reinstall through orange the rubber gasket as the fit is very tight.

Original post below:





We have the 3-way Norcold 3136, it's been a great fridge althought, like others have found, it sometimes struggles to start on propane.
Through the years I have learned to be very gentle with it, always run it level, and have devoted a fair bit of time in *trying to* undrerstand the 3-way absoption process and general troubleshooting.

In dramatic and theatric tone: [Oh Gods of the 3-way fridges take pity on me]

It's not really a plug-and-play fridge but with some effort on my part, it has served us well. We added two additional 12V fans to help with heat dissipation, and have run a small wired thermometer so we can monitor performance without having to open the fridge door and lose precious cooling.
It uses jack squat in terms of propane or electricity Ah,so when we boondock it's a fantastic fridge!

In the last 6 months, it has become increasingly difficult to light on propane (see my post about that here) which (in hindsight) likely indicates the burner orifice needs serious cleaning or replacement. Somnetimes it woudl take up to 30 minutes of back and forth.

Last weekend it lit easily, but there was absolutely no cooling inside the fridge. I verified that a blue flame was indeed lit (tested it several times) but the fridge failed to produced any cooling. Back at home we tested the fridge with both 120V and 12V and it worked very well, indicating that the cooling components of the fridge are fine, but the propane heating section is faulty.

The burner box is below:


I will have to remove the fridge to gain access to this and use two wrenches to safely remove the burner orifice 
UPDATES - fridge MUST be removed to replace the metal orifice - there is no possible way to do this while the fridge is in place.

Here is a photo from user @Nomad that has opened up the box (although I am not sure it is necesary to open the box to remove and replace the burned, I guess I will find out)


There are various posts online for how to remove the 3136 from EuroVans and other campers.

Here is a well documented removal and cleaning: https://1705.net/norcold-3163-removal-cleaning/

This is not for the faint of heart, and you REALLy need to be careful if you are willing to go here, here is a link for the necesary precautions:
http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/norcold.html (I have PDF'd this document and uploaded to the files archives of teh forums ages ago with a title like "DON'T DIE" or something of the sort)


QUESTIONS:
Has anyone documented the removal from a T@B / T@DA thoroughly? 

Would anyone that has actually pulled the fridge care to comment on the finer details?


1000 thank yous 

FuzzyYanni

Update July 2023 - The fridge will not light at all and for most of this year, we have been using it with DC only (and only with shore power) I looked at the air exhaust assembly in the back of the trailer and it was all covered with black soot - so this points out to some off combustion in the orifice - something is causing a lot of soot which probably accounts for the orifice not lighting.

Sadness but the fridge must come out and replacement orifice will be installed.

I have on hand the new orifice AND a propane detector (aka don't DIE !)

FuzzyYanni

Fridge removal videos and photos. I will be uploading as I go along!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZHh1pLKPQxeZs2Rs7

peterbreu

I removed our Norcold model N-180 from our 2018 320S today to see what might have caused some problems in the past with using it on propane.  We had loose insulation at the bottom of the fridge by the lower side vent and I didn't know where it was coming from.  Turns out it was part of the insulation surrounding the vertical exhaust pipe that had come loose and collapsed.  Here's how I removed the fridge.  First you need to remove the screen door if you have one as it blocks removing screws holding the fridge in place.  I won't detail that but if you are curious you can ask and I will explain.  There are about 8 screws on the perimeter that hold the fridge into the wood cabinet frame.  You don't need to take off the door but I did to make it lighter and easier to pull out.  Once those screws are out the fridge is loose and you can pull it forward.  You'll need to undo the 110 wiring and the propane line if you need to remove it entirely.  I didn't as I just wanted to see the ignition box more clearly in the lower vent as well as the insulated exhaust pipe.  If you are removing the 110 wiring and propane line take the necessary precautions - turn off any shore power, turn off the propane line, turn off the main battery switch.  Frankly, the most difficult part of this job was removing the screen door which was installed very tightly.

FuzzyYanni

Success! 🔥🔥🔥🔥