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qhumberd
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qhumberd
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Lithium Charging Question (Newbie) - SOLVED
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See what they tell you. The rewire will give you accurate account of your in/out and fix the SoC issue (the fact that it never increases). But I'm not sure the neg cables rewire will fix the auto-sync issue. It did not fix mine so I just did one manual sync and everything has been fine since. Would also be interested to know if the VicIP65 triggers the auto-sync and how it's wired to the shunt (which I assume will be just how the WFCO is wired, when wired properly). Good luck!
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@Gomers2 ... So you are able to auto sync after doing just one manual sync? That's encouraging - and sounds like the re-wire did fix your auto-sync issue. This has been driving me crazy. I guess I'm a perfectionist. If it's supposed to auto-sync, it should auto-sync. My local dealer said they can by-pass the WFCO charger, so it sounds like they know what they're doing. Fingers crossed.
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I'm curious what "by-pass" means. If they route around the shunt you won't get an accurate charge measurement when charging from shore power. So the shunt will think it never gets fully charged.LauraC said:... My local dealer said they can by-pass the WFCO charger, so it sounds like they know what they're doing.2021 T@B 320ss Boondock - added Victron Smartshunt, 400w Renogy and 200w BougeRV folding solar suitcases, additional Victron 100/30 MPPT controller and eco worthy 300ah smart lifepo4 battery.
2011 Tacoma TRD Off Road (V6, Auto), Dobinsons MRR adjustable suspension, 3in lift
Albuquerque, New Mexico -
@NMSunshine ... the bypass comment was in response to my question about whether it's possible to replace the shore power WFCO charger with the Victron IP65. So the bypass is around the WFCO, not the shunt.
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WooHoo! It worked! Moving the negative cable off the solar controller from the battery side of the shunt to the system side of the shunt gave me positive current readings all morning and it just synched to 100%, all on solar. None of that never happened before even on shore power. I don't know if NuCamp installed it that way or it was the dealership, but that misplaced wire caused a lot of stress the past several months on this newbie solar guy. The upside is I learned a lot.
Thanks everyone for your assistance -
@Cliffs - Yay!! Good for you. I'm going to print out this thread for our local dealer and hopefully they can fix the wiring issue. (Every time I go near the Smart Shunt and look at the wiring I just can't bring myself to remove anything for fear of doing damage to myself or the camper)
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Curious what the aux port wire is going to? Normally the aux port isn't used.Cliffs said:I have the same/similar problem that Fay has. We've had our 360 since last summer and the SOC never will increase despite the battery being fully charged. I've tweaked the settings several times times with no luck. After looking into the shunt manual, I'm starting to think it's not synching because the shunt is always reading negative current no matter what. I suspect the cause perhaps is the negative side of the solar controller (arrow) is connected to the wrong side of the shunt ( it bypasses it). Does anyone know what the proper connection should be?
The vBattery port goes to the positive busbar (provided you have one, else to the positive battery post if you have a single battery).
Don Montalvo | Retired Veteran | Full time boondocker
Camper: nuCamp T@B 320S BBC | 12V 2x100Ah LiFePO4 | 600W Solar
Tow Vehicle: Jeep JLU Rubicon | 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 | 200W Solar
https://revkit.com/donmontalvo/ | https://donmontalvo.com -
I was told that red wire is power to the Smart Shunt. If you disconnect it, the Smart Shunt powers off and you can plug it back in to re-set. I never tried it as the solution to the syncing problem is in re-wiring as Cliffs said above. A NuCamp tech confirmed that the Smart Shunt wires on my T@b 360 were incorrect.
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That's correct the red wire is the positive terminal wire which powers the shunt, depending on the shunt model it also sends battery temp at the terminal to the shunt. The shunt can then share temp with the MPPT charger if they are set up on the same ve.direct bluetooth network in the Victron app, this lets the charger adjust charging based on temp if needed. You have to configure the shunt and the MPPT to "share" a ve.direct bluetooth network but its very easy.LauraC said:I was told that red wire is power to the Smart Shunt. If you disconnect it, the Smart Shunt powers off and you can plug it back in to re-set. I never tried it as the solution to the syncing problem is in re-wiring as Cliffs said above.
re: the auto sync in the shunt I don't have any experience with that, the first time I installed my shunt I turned off all loads and manually charged my battery to full with a smart charger (the MPPT will also work if you turn off all loads and give it enough time) and then did an SOC sync to 100% in the shunt UI.
I figured that was the best way for me to match "real" 100% to what the shunt should think 100% is.
If auto sync works that would be cool.2021 T@B 320ss Boondock - added Victron Smartshunt, 400w Renogy and 200w BougeRV folding solar suitcases, additional Victron 100/30 MPPT controller and eco worthy 300ah smart lifepo4 battery.
2011 Tacoma TRD Off Road (V6, Auto), Dobinsons MRR adjustable suspension, 3in lift
Albuquerque, New Mexico -
Sorry for the late response but I was offline for a bit

. It looks like my controller might be wired incorrectly also. Unfortunately for my my dealer is 2 1/2 hours away. Here’s a pic of my setup.
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@fay_anderson, it does appear that you have one wire in the wrong place. On the "to battery minus" side, leave the one that goes (you guessed it) to the battery minus. On a 360 the wire heading left to the passenger side would almost certainly be the battery. Move the other one to the System Minus side of the shunt.
Unplug from shore power and turn the big red battery switch knob to Off. Remove the brass bolts, note the washer location and be careful not to drop them. (It can be helpful to lay out a towel below the area in case you do drop something it won't roll away.) I believe the bolts are metric, maybe 17 mm? Or maybe 11/16"? But you can use an adjustable wrench if need be. Move the wire in question, just spin the crimp ends until they sit well together on the bolt. Hand tighten firmly but not crazy tight. Turn the Battery Switch knob back on. Keep in mind this is all 12 volt, so not dangerous voltage. A 5 min job might save you a 5 hr drive.
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That's what I did and it's working great. Work at a time with low or no solar too.
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Thank you Gomer that does seem like something I can handle. I will give it a go.
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While I haven’t actually located my battery because I would have to disassemble the dinette seating, I believe it’s the wire that heads off in a direction by itself. The wire I believe I should move heads into a large bundle of wires. I’m assuming to the rest of the electrical system. And this is the wire I should move. Does this make sense or should I take the dinette seating apart to confirm that’s where the battery is?
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I'm not sure what model you have. On the 360 it is against the back wall, passenger side, below the seat that folds up. The other wire is coming from the solar controller most likely, or possibly the WFCO charger... Whichever one does not register correctly on the shunt
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I have the 360 and passenger side behind the dinette is where I’ve been guessing the battery is. The wire passes thru the night stand between the beds and is the only wire going that way. Thank you so much for your help. I will report back once it’s done.Gomers2 said:I'm not sure what model you have. On the 360 it is against the back wall, passenger side, below the seat that folds up. The other wire is coming from the solar controller most likely, or possibly the WFCO charger... Whichever one does not register correctly on the shunt -
LauraC said:I was told that red wire is power to the Smart Shunt. If you disconnect it, the Smart Shunt powers off and you can plug it back in to re-set. I never tried it as the solution to the syncing problem is in re-wiring as Cliffs said above. A NuCamp tech confirmed that the Smart Shunt wires on my T@b 360 were incorrect.

Don Montalvo | Retired Veteran | Full time boondocker
Camper: nuCamp T@B 320S BBC | 12V 2x100Ah LiFePO4 | 600W Solar
Tow Vehicle: Jeep JLU Rubicon | 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 | 200W Solar
https://revkit.com/donmontalvo/ | https://donmontalvo.com -
@fay_anderson I want to be sure I was clear about "hand tighten" when replacing the bolts on the shunt. Use the wrench of course, but only as tight as you can get without hurting your hand...in other words no power tools like a drill/driver.
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Gotcha Gomer.
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You can also disable the charger temporarily if you want via the Victron app when you're working on the system and it'll stop any current form the mppt, it's a good general practice but not strictly required. Screenshot from my 320s but the apps should be the same.Cliffs said:[...] Work at a time with low or no solar too.
2021 T@B 320ss Boondock - added Victron Smartshunt, 400w Renogy and 200w BougeRV folding solar suitcases, additional Victron 100/30 MPPT controller and eco worthy 300ah smart lifepo4 battery.
2011 Tacoma TRD Off Road (V6, Auto), Dobinsons MRR adjustable suspension, 3in lift
Albuquerque, New Mexico -
A quick update and a HUGE thank you to everyone who pitched in to help me work thru this issue. We moved the wire on Saturday and have maintained 100% SOC ever since where before it would steadily decrease in percentage. Thank you Gomer for walking me thru what I needed to do. It was as easy as you said and was a lot better than driving back to the dealer. Thank you all again!
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Finally received a reply from Nucamp tech who confirmed that the shunt was incorrectly wired. I was told that the shunt was wired at the factory and they have corrected the issue with newer campers going out. Let’s hope so.

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have new Tab 360 where state of charge has dropped steadily since brought home on May 5; should I check for this wiring error? soc now 28%
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Is your battery switch on or off? Is your T@B parked in the sun?levbob said:have new Tab 360 where state of charge has dropped steadily since brought home on May 5; should I check for this wiring error? soc now 28%San Francisco Bay Area
2013 CS-S us@gi
2015 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner Double Cab -
parked inthe sun, battery switch is on
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Hi,
@levbob The first thing I would try to correct a possible SOC error is to make sure your battery is fully charge using either AC power or via solar. Then use the victron app to syc. the battery SOC to 100%. Then see if the SOC matches voltage as it drops. But you may also have the same wiring issue as @fay_anderson . I picked up a 360CS on Saturday and found the same (and only ) issue on our walkthrough.2025 360 CS
2021 TAB 320 BD (w/new owner having fun)
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Southern Maryland -
it does not charge either on shore power or from sun, at least SOC does not increase,but maybe SOC reading is falsw
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the Tab 360 is Boondock version, what voltage would be fully charged for its lithium battery?
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here is photo
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You need to move the wire on your shunt for it to workfay_anderson said:Finally received a reply from Nucamp tech who confirmed that the shunt was incorrectly wired. I was told that the shunt was wired at the factory and they have corrected the issue with newer campers going out. Let’s hope so.
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