Bal leveler Boondock

DougH

I normally put the car in neutral, and lean on it to free up the coupler... after I've put a chock in front of the non-Anderson leveled wheel so camper doesn't roll forward a little at the same time. Doesn't work too well on a downward sloped site, unless willing to chase down your car though. Good exercise, but a little too exiting.

So I'll have to try the unlocked coupler method too... still remember wondering how the heck to unhitch the first time I used the leveler.

Cherokee

GatorEgg said:

Folks, don't use your stabilizer jacks for leveling.

If you look in your T@B Manual, page 12 in mine, there is a prominent WARNING triangle stating;

"Stabilizing jacks are designed to stabilize the trailer only.  Misuse of stabilizer jacks to level or lift the trailer may result in damage to the jacks and potentially to the trailer."

Or like I told my sons over the years,  don't follow the warnings - let me know how it works out for you.

I tell my grandchildren to read the entire Manual:

"fine leveling" according to BAL

TNOutback

peterac50 said:

TN Outback - Funny, I have never had an unhitching or hitching issue using the andersen levelers. Are you using additional wedges to stabilize the trailer before you go to unhitch? I think that it is essential on both sides of the trailer that the Tab can't move once you have leveled it. Once its stable, I have never had a problem. Interesting how different everyone's experience with a given product can be. Hope you find a solution that works for you.

We use the BAL single tire locking chock on the opposite side from the Andersen.  I frankly can’t recall if we were pulling forward or backing up on those occasions when it was bound up.  The wedges on the BAL locking chock are really short, and I’ve been thinking about getting some taller plates welded onto it.

I’ll be sure and try the pulling forward next week.