Bal leveler Boondock

Tater

I posted a while back as to whether or not a bal leveler would work on a Boondocks larger tires. A few people chimed in yes. I just got my Bal leveler And it will not fit around my Boondock tires. What gives ??

My tires are 235/75R15. 

Thanks Tater

pthomas745

My tires are the same size, and mine works.....

Tater

I’m at a loss. Is is really hard to get around the tire?  I mean it doesn’t even look close to me. 

VictoriaP

It’s a snug fit, but it does work on my 2019 Boondock. Easier to do on hard surfaces though. Worst case, get that wheel up on a small board or single block leveler first, then slide the BAL under.

Tater

Ok, going to try that.Not happy at all yet. I hate leveling and this was the answer to my prayers. Not giving up. What are your tires inflated to ?

thanks for the help !!!

pthomas745

Mine are at 50.....like Victoria says, it is a snug fit.  If I'm on gravel or grass I've even had to gouge out a little trench to help it slide around the tire.

VictoriaP

Tater said:

Ok, going to try that.Not happy at all yet. I hate leveling and this was the answer to my prayers. Not giving up. What are your tires inflated to ?

thanks for the help !!!

Tires are at 50.

I will say that I find it more work than it’s worth to carry, store, and crank up/down in use. I’m leaning towards getting an Andersen or equivalent this season (but I have the Purpleline, so I can remote control the trailer onto any leveler without having to deal with being hitched up to move it).

Mouseketab

I find it really odd, as my tires are 16" low profile, and my BAL works perfectly

Tater

Thanks all, The purpline would prob solve my problem. It’s hard for me to hit the levelers that’s why I wanted the Bal. Ill try again with a piece of wood underneath. If not I just have to 
be crooked !!!

GatorEgg

Well I just walked out to my garage and took a picture of my Bal leveler under my Boondock tire.  But I dont know how to resize it from my iphone to post it.  But its there sitting tucked under the tire, nice and pretty.

VictoriaP

Tater said:

Thanks all, The purpline would prob solve my problem. It’s hard for me to hit the levelers that’s why I wanted the Bal. Ill try again with a piece of wood underneath. If not I just have to 
be crooked !!!

Unfortunately, the only way to operate a Tab320s off level is to never run the appliances. Your 2019 has a fridge that MUST be level in operation or it can fail pretty dangerously (via an ammonia leak, which sometimes happens in an explosive manner), and my understanding is that the Alde also needs to be mostly level (not quite as critical). Operating off level isn’t an option for most of us.

Maybe try this: back the trailer up a little further than planned when first parking; then put the block(s) in front of the tire rather than behind, and pull forward onto it while holding the steering wheel straight. Learning to back onto blocks takes more practice than pulling forward onto them.

Dutch061

I ordered one of these for my 400 Boondock, it doesn't get any simpler than this.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GC2LVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tater

Thanks Victoria, going to try again tomorrow. 

Tater

Gatoregg is it against rules to email me a photo 
??

jkjenn

I used to use the BAL leveler but I switched to the Anderson leveler. It is just easier. Tge Anderson Pluto the Lecelmate Pro have made things much simpler and easier to store.

Tater

I have the LevelMatePRO pro. Really like it. 

Denny16

I have the Anderson setup, works great.
cheers

GatorEgg

Tater said:

Gatoregg is it against rules to email me a photo 
??

I think I sent it.

GatorEgg

Tater, Check your tire pressure.  If its low the tire will be "squatty" and be wide at the base.

GatorEgg

I got the Bal so I wouldn’t have to dork  around trying to park on LEGO blocks. I pull onto the site, unhook the truck, level one “bubble” down with tongue jack, slide Bal under low side tire, bring it up to level “bubbles”, done. Maybe 5 minutes at most.

Tater

That’s how I want it to go. I usually camp solo and blocks are a pain 

Tater

Thanks Gator, I will recheck pressure. I had them at 50 a week ago. 

Cherokee

While stabilizers are mostly to study your T@B while you are moving around in it and help the trailer resist the wind. However, because the 320 is so light, minor adjustments can be made with them. For example, When I position my trailer where I want it, I first lift it off the trailer off the coupler. Since I'm already cranking, I'll go ahead and level it front to back. If the side to side not level by several inches, I'll place a shim under the low wheel when it's still coupled. If the difference is small, I'll level it by turning the stabilizers. The suspension on a 320 has a couple of inches of travel - so the wheels will stay planted. This is NOT recommend for larger trailers.

GatorEgg

Folks, don't use your stabilizer jacks for leveling.

If you look in your T@B Manual, page 12 in mine, there is a prominent WARNING triangle stating;

"Stabilizing jacks are designed to stabilize the trailer only.  Misuse of stabilizer jacks to level or lift the trailer may result in damage to the jacks and potentially to the trailer."

Or like I told my sons over the years,  don't follow the warnings - let me know how it works out for you.

TNOutback

Dutch061 said:

I ordered one of these for my 400 Boondock, it doesn't get any simpler than this.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GC2LVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have been using the Andersen Leveler since last Summer, and I am not happy with it.  When you run the tire up on the “wedge”, the chock allows just enough slippage that it puts the coupler in an extreme bind to make it very difficult to unhitch.  Then you have to back up or pull up to release the tension, but not enough to cause the chock to move.  I’ve had two instances where the coupler release caused the chock to slip and the trailer rolled off the wedge. To prevent a runaway trailer, I’ve been leaving the safety chains attached until everything is settled.  I am looking for another solution.

peterac50

TN Outback - Funny, I have never had an unhitching or hitching issue using the andersen levelers. Are you using additional wedges to stabilize the trailer before you go to unhitch? I think that it is essential on both sides of the trailer that the Tab can't move once you have leveled it. Once its stable, I have never had a problem. Interesting how different everyone's experience with a given product can be. Hope you find a solution that works for you.

jkjenn

peterac50 said:

TN Outback - Funny, I have never had an unhitching or hitching issue using the andersen levelers. Are you using additional wedges to stabilize the trailer before you go to unhitch? I think that it is essential on both sides of the trailer that the Tab can't move once you have leveled it. Once its stable, I have never had a problem. Interesting how different everyone's experience with a given product can be. Hope you find a solution that works for you.

I think what TN Outback is referring to is when you back the T@b on to the Anderson,, it seems to result in too much weight forward on the hitch and is pretty much impossible to unhitch. I have found it to be less of an issue when I pull forward onto the Anderson. As it does not put the weight forward.

If you really need to back onto the leveler, you can release the coupler but still leave it resting on the ball and carefully back it on.

peterac50

JKenn: Thats good advice. While I've never had trouble backing up, knowing an alternative approach if I am facing that situation is very useful.

tteam

We use the Bal with a 2020 Boondock lite. At times I need to move dirt, gravel or whatever to fit the tire as it needs to be near the base to fit.

Sharon_is_SAM

@jkjenn, good advice regarding the Anderson,  We do just as you describe - unlock the coupler before backing onto the Anderson and don’t lock the coupler until you move off the Anderson.  I think we will try to pull forward onto it the next time and see how that goes.

jkjenn

Sharon_is_SAM said:

@jkjenn, good advice regarding the Anderson,  We do just as you describe - unlock the coupler before backing onto the Anderson and don’t lock the coupler until you move off the Anderson.  I think we will try to pull forward onto it the next time and see how that goes.

It was an "aha" I made last season.