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320S 2021 license plate light electrical access it's 0V

My rear camera stopped working - no 12V going to the brown/white wires w/o camera connected but trailer driving lights ON. I suspect a wiring connection is open between the License Plate light and the two rear lights as the both function. It's not a break at the bend out of the trailer exit hole. I doubt if there's an in-line fuse protecting only the license plate light.

Anyone know which panels I need to remove to get access to these wires. Thanks today has a long list of mods this was unexpected and don't want to explore how many things I can remove in the back.

Thanks!
- Mark
Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee
Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
managed by VE Smart Network

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    MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,604
    I've not worked on the 'running lights' wiring of the T@B so don't have direct knowledge to share.  I have however added a Center/Third Rear Stop Light so was poking around in the hidden rear cabin areas.

    As you guessed, there are no fuses in the trailer running light wiring.  So if any running light is working the license plate lamp should have power.

    The typical 'trailer wiring' for the running lights is:
         7-pin plug to Junction Box under front of cabin frame.
         Junction Box has two Brown Color wires powering all the running lights.
      I do not know which brown wire feeds which lights.

    You can see some of the rear wiring by accessing the Adle Expansion Tank space.  You can also see/touch the passenger side rear light wiring by removing the access panel on the passenger side of the rear shelf - - - it is like the Adle Expansion Tank but on the opposite side of trailer.

    In the picture below of the Passenger Side access area you can see a Brown wire and it appears to lead to a connector; taillight, license plate?, don't know.

    Good Luck on your investigation.



    '18 320 Spitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  51   Nights:  322  Towing Miles 41,200+
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    MarkAlMarkAl Member Posts: 460
    Thanks for the pic and the idea to get access to the wiring from the side panels. I'm not ready to start pulling random wood from in back of the seats to try and locate the actual wire point. I'll next contact NuCamp on a possible approach. It's a mystery why the wire connection to just the license plate light inside the trailer would suddenly lose connection. There should be no serious stress on it. It's stress relieved by a glop of something as it exits the rear plastic then into my camera.
    Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee
    Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
    Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
    managed by VE Smart Network
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    MarkAlMarkAl Member Posts: 460
    Duh! piece of cake, just take out the tray in back of the seats with 8 screws. It's held to the front facing panel. Then just slips forward and out....
    Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee
    Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
    Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
    managed by VE Smart Network
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    BrianZBrianZ Member Posts: 1,763
    edited August 2022
    May also be a green wire, as it is on ours..
    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/168813/#Comment_168813
    Here's our green running lights wire in the J-box at arrow, 3rd post from left..

    (Not the two fat green cables - those are my recently added 8G ground from converter ground bus bar to battery.)
    -Brian in Chester, Virginia
    TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
    RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods 
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    MarkAlMarkAl Member Posts: 460
    Oddly the + lead was a white striped one. I think NuCamp was teaching a whole group of new people on how to crimp and attach wires in May-June of 2020. I've found many poor crimps and screwed down terminations on this trailer. This has been the hardest to get to so far. I suspect the license plate light wires were passed through the tube and then crimped on the lines to the running lights.  The plus lead was dangling (light side) waving in the wind. Fortunately it wasn't the power side. Simple fix, verified the ground was good and put a new crimp on the disconnected one. Then reattach the camera leads on the outside as that was my 1st check. And of course put back the interior. Live and Learn always something. Another good outcome was I found some dirty clothes that had fallen through the crack to the convector and tied up some wires that were in danger of being sliced on the convector fins. Thinking of putting a quick release on this bin to make it easier to get stuff out from down there.

    I was planning to wire in my new DC (car) - DC (solar input) system to charge the battery at a significant level with a quality charger through my remote input as I rarely use that while driving. That got to wait but I did get the 2nd Lagun mount installed so I now don't have to store it under the bench seat at night/driving and I have a new headboard/table placement option. Cool.
    Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee
    Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
    Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
    managed by VE Smart Network
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