Drawer for entry door cabinet

Kevin@7

I find the cabinet just to the left as you enter through the door is very useful for storing tools and supplies you need quick access from outside.  Instead of removing the cushion for access, which can be a cumbersome task at times, I thought of adding a drawer.  My first thought was to put a drawer slide in there but as I started building I ended up simplifying to keep time to build and parts to a minimum.  Drawer slides are really not necessary.  I ended up with something I think will work out quite well but time will tell.  It slides pretty nicely but haven't put too much weight yet.  To avoid scratching the floor I may add chair leg felt.  I used 1/2" birch plywood but I'm sure I could have used 1/4" for two of the sides and saved some weight.  Use what you have laying around the shop I like to say.  Hope pictures help more than words could.

Also,  I find the space just under the Alde radiator inside the protection wall perfect for putting the stabilizer crank.  Just have to be careful to avoid damaging the fins.  You can sort of see it in the second picture below.

Mouseketab

Very nice! I use that area for larger items, so the drawer wouldn't be much use for me, but it is a cool idea!

Kevin@7

Thanks.  Would be interested in what others put there.  For me it was tools.  Eventually would be nice to have an outside shelf like the Outback.

vito

The space under the bench just inside of the door is pretty accessible even without a drawer such as what you built, either from the end or by lifting the cushion. It is the storage space under the rear bench cushion that is a pain to get to. I know I am not making effective use of that storage space just because I hate to go through the hassle of trying to get to it. I wish the design of the T@b had made access to that space from the outside of the T@b.

Kevin@7

Guess for what I was using it for (small tools and other small items) things would shift around and I found myself reaching in and hunting for them or taking off the top which isn't so easy if lets say you have the trailer packed up.  An outside storage door would be nice for access to that back storage area which can really be hard to get to.  Best outside storage at the moment seems to be with the outback type shelf around the tank/battery housing.

Mouseketab

I added outside baggage doors to both sides of my T@B to access the rear bench storage. On the drivers side is where my electrical cords go, on the passenger side is water hoses, my stabilizer crank, and my power mover crank.

In the front half of the passenger bench is my plastic flamingo, a small fan, and the tank top propane heater. Now that I have added the door that Little Guy T@Bs come standard with, I will probably start putting my chocks, stabilizer pads, and sewer hose lifter in there too.

I don't put anything in the front part of the drivers side storage. Too many wires in there for my comfort level.

Kevin@7

Mouseketab said:

I added outside baggage doors to both sides of my T@B to access the rear bench storage.

Would love to see pictures.  For me the Alde radiator hose goes right through the area where an outside door would work.

Machak88

@Mouseketab, the pictures of the outside baggage doors would be great, if possible. How do you make sure that they stay waterproof and safe, is there a lock? 

Mouseketab

Here are pics of the two hatches. They do have locks, but they were both purchased seperately, and keyed the same.... AND the key matches my clamshell hatch key, so they are about as secure as any outside hatch on a RV.

Spruce1

Hey Kevin@7:  Thanks for the drawer mod idea and pics.  This past week I built the box and installed it today.  It works great!  I took your suggestion and made the sides out of 1/4 inch birch plywood. I put on a couple coats of clear poly.  Before the drawer install we only really used 1/2 of the space (the area we could readily access through the door.  Now we can use the entire area!

Kevin@7

Spruce1 said:

Hey Kevin@7:  Thanks for the drawer mod idea and pics.  This past week I built the box and installed it today.  It works great!  I took your suggestion and made the sides out of 1/4 inch birch plywood. I put on a couple coats of clear poly.  Before the drawer install we only really used 1/2 of the space (the area we could readily access through the door.  Now we can use the entire area!

Good to hear it worked out for you.  I have yet to put it to the real test on a trip but expect it to be much improved access to that limited space.

Jeanne

Great drawer idea. Found "lost" items under there this past weekend, and was thinking I needed a plastic box for the tools and other items that are going there. 

Kevin@7

Jeanne said:

Great drawer idea. Found "lost" items under there this past weekend, and was thinking I needed a plastic box for the tools and other items that are going there. 

Thanks.  I finally got to put it to the real test this past weekend and found it worked quite well to store all my tools.  Most importantly when I needed them when it wasn't so convenient to pick up the cushions.   Added an improvement to prevent the drawer from slamming into the radiator hoses while in motion and keeping the less used small items.  Will post pictures.

Spruce1

Looking forward to seeing pics of the improvement to prevent sliding in transit.  I made our drawer a little longer than yours but need a way to protect the hoses too.

jschemel

What are the dimensions of your drawer?

Spruce1

Our drawer is 28 1/2" long, 7 1/2" wide, and 8 1/2" high. All outside dimensions.  If I did it again I'd maybe go 1/2" less in length and height. It's a tight fit now but works great.

Kevin@7

Mine is 21 L x 8 W x 8.5 H.  Decided to make it so I had full access when completely open.  I made a smaller box in the back that it bumps up against with an extension block that keeps it from pushing against the radiator hoses.   Still working on the picture.

propus

Lowe's Hardware, Kitchen section, Rev-A-Shelf
Had to space it up 3/4"

Spruce1

Very nice!

bgualtieri

Cool!

Kevin@7

Here's a picture of the method I used to keep the heavily loaded drawer from slamming into the radiator hose while I'm driving the t@b.  The additional part stays in that location and actually works out as a nice stop when opening and closing the drawer with an added bonus of storing small items. 

You can also see in the picture that the Anderson leveler fits perfectly in the void of the wheel well....almost like it was made for just that.   

JandJ92010

I really liked your idea Kevin, so I made my own drawer. I have a 2015-L without an ALDE, so I made my drawer 8x8x58 long, so that what was under the back cushion can be pulled up under the front one. Much easier to get to.

KyBawpaw

BTW, I'd like to get the Anderson jack. Takes up a lot less room than the Lynx Levelers I have. They were given to me though, the Anderson is about $50 I think. It is on my Amazon wish list.

NomadPilgrim

Excellent ideas, all of them. I already had a wicker basket about the same dimensions as your drawer so used that. It's for a "medicine chest" of sorts. My first aid kit is mounted, just all the other stuff you'd keep like poison ivy wash and lotion. My tools and hookups are under the front bench to the right. I love the exterior access doors but can't imagine poking holes just yet! 2016 CS S Max 

RollingLagrima

Im with you Nomad. While i love the idea, i just can't do it...yet.

Photomom

@propus how did you mount the rev-a-shelf drawer in your T@B cabinet? Did you screw the mounting rails to the flooring?

propus

It has to be blocked up about ¾" to clear the lower lip of the cabinet. (Yours may be different) I used a couple ¾" hardwood blocks screwed to the floor under the mounting holes for the rev-a-shelf. I screwed the bracket to the blocks. There's no reason you couldn't drive the screws directly through the bracket, block, and into the floor. If you use a softwood block, you don't need to drill pilot holes.  Self-boring screws, or drywall screws would work fine. The fit between the wheel well and alde housing is tight. I had to chisel about 1/16" deep relief in the alde housing for one of the rivet heads on the mount. Then it popped in like it was made for it. It's been a very handy mod, and well worth the effort.

Photomom

I'll have to look at doing that when we get our T@B. I had those Rev-a-Shelf pullouts in our old kitchen and loved them.

Any concerns about drilling into the floor?

propus

As I understand it, the floor is thick enough it should not be a problem. Just size the screw length carefully and don't go deeper than ¾" into the floor. That will be plenty of grip.