Why no 3 way in Clamshell?

ashaw

Does anybody know why the fridge in the CS-S model is only 12 v and not a three way? Is it maybe a weight or size issue or a venting issue?  My 2 way is such a power hog that I'd like to get rid of it.  I may just put in a shelf for a good cooler if I can't put in a 3 way.  

Nomad

My guess would be venting as mine has two vents below the front window, the vent on the side by the door and finally, one in the floor below the fridge. Don't know where they'd put all those on a clam.

ashaw

Thanks PXlated, I'll probably just go with a good cooler.  Ice is easier to find on the road than a power source sometimes.

wizard1880

There are advantages to the 12v fridge. It only draws 5 amps when the compressor is running, so it's suitable (and safe) to run while in tow. Second, its very powerful, and the freezer section actually keeps things frozen. It also works in 100+ degree temps, keeping stuff nice and cold. It's also very fast--it cools down in less than 10 mins. Finally, you don't have to worry about the gas and igniting it, along with the problems with thermocouples. Pick your poison I suppose, but if I had a non-CS version, I'd ask for a 12v instead.

mash2

After reading the ongoing issues with the 3-way, I am even more convinced that my 2-way is kinder to me (the user).  It certainly uses more power when boon docking; but I will say, it has never been finicky about running.  Turn it on and away it goes.  If your electrical capacity (batteries, solar, etc) are meager, it could certainly be a problem in boon docking.  I just monitor consumption and have really not run into any issues with the 2-way.  I can see the beauty of the 3-way (particularly the electric power when boon docking),  but am constantly amazed at the myriad issues that crop up on this and other websites with the 3-way.  

ashaw

Thanks for all the input. Guess I got some thinkin to do... I also need to upgrade my power options, right now I only have 80watt solar and it can't keep up with the fridge especially if i want to use anything else.

Mr_Mrs_Gnome

We're thinking about putting in a 50 qt. ARB since it draws less than 1amp. Has anyone had experience with them, especially replacing the CS stock fridge with one?

BBchBum

Mr_Mrs_Gnome - if you do wind up doing this please post your thoughts. I have thought about this option several times, especially after all the 3-way quirks I have read about.

Nomad

In spite of the quirks, I like my 3-way. Can't imagine boondocking as much as I do without the propane. Would need to greatly enhance my battery/solar setup to mash2 levels without the gas.
Also keep in mind that the forums tend to over emphasize issues. You can get the impression that small, isolated problems are widespread when in fact they're not.

mash2

Pxlated.  I agree with your assessment.  Just observing that the simplicity of the 2-way isn't all bad.    

I still toy with ripping out the fridge and putting in an ARB.  If I decide to do a serious stint in the T@B, I would probably move to an ARB to limit draw on the system.  

Lil_L's_Sofitel_15

I was told by LG (or the dealer, can't remember which) that they couldn't run the line for the propane that far. (!?) The propane stove is about 2 feet away, which I thought I could pony off of, but was told that wouldn't be safe. I have had a three way in a previous RV and it was first on my must have list as I like to dry camp. Any ideas on how to fix this would truly be appreciated. An ice box probably won't cut it for me.

Nomad

Lil - The length of the propane line is probably an issue but the bigger problem is venting. There's in/out burner vents (you'll see them on T@Bs with internal fridges), then there's air intake below the fridge through the floor and finally a powered exhaust vent to exhaust the heat around the cabinet.
Every RV fridge I've seen is set against an outside wall to allow for all this. Would be hard to do in a clam. Almost has to be against the interior wall.

Lil_L's_Sofitel_15

I see. So even if it were vented to the side, that won't be enough? Dang. I am really having a hard time taking no for an answer! 

Nomad

Well, there's a lot of vents you'd need to angle out the side. First, the two vents for the propane burner (air in and exhaust out). Then the two vents that circulate air around the fridge itself (input and the fan powered exhaust). So I suppose you could but you'd have a lot to take into account and re-engineer.

Lil_L's_Sofitel_15

Hmmm, there are vents already for the 2-way, and a fan with I assume a vent. I wonder if there are any exploded views of this sort of thing. I am a visual learner ...I will check around. Thanks for your input, I wanna be safe of course! 

wizard1880

The 2 way is simply installed in the cabinets with no external venting. It has a built in fan for circulating air over the condenser coils beneath, but gets its air from the surroundings.

ashaw

Sorry, what's an ARB? That sounds like a good option, I like the 1 amp draw.

Nomad

An ARB is a 12v freezer/cooler - ARB is a brand name...
http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer--Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1443057307&sr=8-2&keywords=ARB+freezer

Mr_Mrs_Gnome

ARB fridge/freezers use Danfoss technology which is highly efficient. They operate on both AC/DC, and come in various sizes. I believe they also recognize when your battery is waning and shut off. ARB also has a remote thermometer that you can mount in your TV to monitor temperature. Don't know if I can provide the link to their website here. A bit pricy but I believe they're well worth the investment.

Nomad

A bit pricy? That's an understatement :-)

Mr_Mrs_Gnome

The 50 qt. ARB lists for $924. What's the price of the 12 volt that comes with the CS series?

Nomad

Not a clue :-)

Mouseketab

A google search shows the Norcold 12V to be around 580 - 700, so only slightly less expensive than the ARB

USWildflowers

After reading the description and some of the answered questions on Amazon, the "draws less than 1 amp" (.87 amps) statement appears to need a little clarification. That power consumption is the average hourly draw to keep an already-cold 50-qt ARB below-freezing in 90-degree temps. The draw while running appears to be somewhere between 3 and 7 amps (couldn't find published specs; those numbers based on comments from owners,) and the "draw while running" number for the 2-way installed in the T@b seems to also fall within that range. I don't doubt that the ARB is more efficient - maybe even much more efficient, but a comparison of ARB's average draw over a 66-hour test period (the source of the .87 number) to the 5-amp draw of the T@b's 12V while running isn't exactly apples-to-apples.