Feedback on the 2026 tab 360 CS

MPL

New member here, very interested in purchasing a 2026 Tab360 CS-any insights would be greatly appreciated. We’ve never owned a camper before but these look really interesting.

Yoshi_TAB

Hi,

We have had our 360CS for about a year, driving about 10k miles so far… maybe about 60 nights. We moved up from the smaller 320 with the indoor kitchen.

We have had no issues and enjoy now having the outdoor kitchen.

A few things to think about :

It does not have a dedicated dinette. But we set up the dinette table almost daily. Takes about 1 minute to roll mattress and set up daily. Some leave it permanently down, but we like having a place to sit , play games and eat.

The fridge can be problematic in warmer temps. It’s tall and does not have an evaporator fan to move the air from the freezer to the lower sections. I did a mod to install a freezer fan and it works great even in warm/hot conditions. You can do a search for the mod.

There have been some complaints about the A/C not cooling in warm/hot conditions. But I find it works well in those conditions after a bit of time to get the camper cool, just like any RV A/C

The two twins beds are very roomy and comfy with an after market mattress pad.

The bathroom /shower combo is a bit small but works well . Make sure it will work for you. The toilet is a cassette toilet (portable tank) . Again see if that will work for you vs. a gray tank.

If you plan to do extended boondocking without shore power, the single stock battery will not be sufficient with two fridges (outside cooler in addition to inside fridge). Again some thing to think about. We love the extra space the outside cooler provides for drinks etc.

The front tub is very roomy for gear and it comes with a built in gray tank hose storage slot.

The CS has more inside storage cabinets than the non CS version. Way more storage than we need.

The rear star gazer window is slightly higher (because of the rear kitchen) than the non CS version.

Hope these help and others will chime in.

valkraider

We have had our 2025 for two seasons now. We love it so much.

Here are my long winded thoughts:

We preferred the CS because we do not cook in campers - so since we are always outside the CS is exactly what we wanted.

The beds are comfy, but we did add memory foam toppers. We leave our bed down and never use the dinette. We also love the two bed / walkway layout.

We have not had the inside fridge challenges mentioned above, and have boondocks for 3 days in 90 degree heat and not had any power issues either. But we don't use the second fridge in the back all that much so often just leave it at home.

Possibly some of the inside fridge concerns can be mitigated a little with a small battery powered fridge circulation fan?

We have not used the AC much as we have not used this one in humid climates yet - it does work though. However - you have massive windows on these so if you are trying to stay cool you will want to get covers for them…

The camper opens up really well and has tons of cross ventilation as a result.

We modified the vent fan, there is a whole thread on it .

We have had a few problems, but a couple of them were because we had one of the very first units made and they changed some things early on. But one you will want to definitely check is that the Victron monitoring was incorrectly wired.

I also recently figured out that our "accent lighting" on the main switch panel is not wired into the 7.5amp "lighting" fuse - it is in the 15amp "vent fan" fuse. We had a switch get jammed on that panel and blew the fuse. I was able to replace the switch in about 10 minutes, but it did take a couple weeks to get it in and it cost $22 with shipping…

We love the cassette toilet. It is our second vehicle with one - and I love them. They are so convenient and easy to maintain compared to black tanks.

We have showered in it exactly once. But it worked fine.

We replaced the trailer jack with an ultimate jack so we could put our tailgate down while hitched.

I replaced the "reading lights" behind the bed with versions that have red light - because the blue lights were terrible at night. I also put a small battery powered red light in the bathroom because the bathroom light is incredibly blindingly bright when you turn it on in the middle of the night - and you only really need just enough light to manage to use the restroom and go back to bed. :)

There are a lot of little lights around the camper too which bug me and I have tweaked. The USB outlet light up front by the counter is on all the time and is bright, so I wired a switch so I can turn that outlet off. Saves a teeny amount of battery too. I put some light dimmer stickers on the fridge buttons and the heat system controller. I wired a switch inline to the power on the TV because even when the TV was off, its red stand-by light was bright and wasting electricity .Underneath the dinette bed side there is the carbon monoxide and propane detector - and that light is bright, so I make sure that I put shoes or something in front of it to block the light at night (but not right up against it to block any airflow, since its a safety device). So on and so forth - I just don't like extra light at night while sleeping.

We disconnected the light on the entry step before we ever used the camper. That is one of their worst ideas ever - a light that is always on when the step is out? Some people have hooked theirs up to the porch light switch, or put in motion detectors.

I have added a bunch of hooks around the trailer, to accommodate hanging hats, jackets, towels. There is a massive amount of storage in this little trailer but surprisingly few places to hang things. :)

Similarly, There is a lot of storage - but it's small storage. So for bigger things like camp chairs, extra coolers, stoves, or fold up bicycles - etc - there is no room. That has to go in the tow vehicle or it takes up your ability to move around in your trailer. You also need to make sure you load things forward of the axle:

We have a significant problem with trailer sway at speeds over 65mph. Under 60mph it is very stable. I have used a tongue weight scale to verify we are loaded correctly. I also got detailed information from NuCamp on the location of the water tanks. I think our sway issues may be a combination of a few things: First, we probably shouldn't be towing much over 65 anyway but when going far distances in the west the freeway speeds are much higher. Second, the axle on the 360 CS is very much in the center (kind of European style…) which is great for maneuverability but less so for highway speeds. Third, the shape of the Tab is kind of like a wing - so I have a project to try and place some vortex generators near the top of the rear slope and see if they help at all - our challenge with that is the star gazer window and solar panels are in that spot, so who knows what I may be able to play with that regard… But I may end up getting a small sway prevention bar installed and use that when we need to run at highway speeds very far.

Those push/pull handles on the front are for show only, you're not manhandling this camper around.

We love the camper!

MPL

First of all, thanks so much for these comments - very informative and helpful!1

Couple of follow-up questions: Valkraider, you mention a few electrical modifications you made - how difficult is that? How bad is the highway speed swaying at, say 70 MPH? I’d like to not have that be an issue on a newly purchased trailer but not sure how complicated the fix is you described. Is it possible the vehicle you’re using has an impact? We have a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee? We have a bike rack that we’d like to have on the back and it looked like that was no problem. Do you think that will be a problem? Thanks so much .

valkraider

Electrical mods:

• Switch added up front for the USB plug (and also replaced the plug with a different version) - the wiring was the easy part, the cutting into the cabinet to install the new switch was a little more nerve-wracking. 😳 I would like to install one in the galley in the back too, but there is nowhere to install it easily.
• The entire fan mod is documented in the other thread, but took me about half a day moving at recreational pace, and taking my time. Not hard - just a lot of steps.
• Installing the switch on the TV power wire - took about 15 minutes tops.
• Fixing the wiring mistake on the Victron, was very simple - but you have to be careful working with the battery (all the usual risks apply here, the positive is always hot…) but since it is on the negative side it was not really too challenging. Did have to put a larger terminal on the wire to fit the Victron. Also documented over in another thread.
• Installing the new bed reading lights, really quite simple - almost a drop in replacement. However, I did melt the veneer slightly while heat-shrinking the wires, it's a flaw probably only I will ever see though. I felt stupid about it. Took me maybe an hour.
• Disconnecting the light on the entry step took 10 minutes. 100% of the time was just basically sealing and securing the wire. I have plans to use it for a fused 12v outlet someday - but not this day.
• Replacing the broken switch on the light panel took like 5 minutes. It took longer for our dealer to get synced up with NuCamp about which part number it is. I had all the info from NuCamp support but the dealer said they couldn't find it in the system, so they had to contact NuCamp themselves and that took like a week. I do know the $10 amazon version which looks almost identical - does not fit. So the $20 factory version is required.

Wiring these things is super simple. Just use the right gauge of wire - you won't go wrong using one size bigger ever. 😜 For switches and whatnot just make sure they are rated for a higher amperage than the fuse in the circuit and you're good. Use good wire connectors, solder if you can but if not just make sure you are getting a good solid crimp and then seal it up well with heat shrink and/or tape. 12v is easy - but you don't want to take it for granted either.

Towing:

We have an F150 and our previous trailer was 30 feet and 9000lbs. So it's not the tow vehicle. 🤔

I have it nice and level, and the weight is distributed well (I have weighed and weighed again).

It's just enough of a wobble at 70mph that I feel it and see it in my mirrors. I simply don't like it.

I have tried it with the fresh water tank full and empty. Some people mention a half full tank will get into a sloshing rhythm that causes sway - but I still get the sway with it completely empty or completely full.

I really do think it is aerodynamic in nature.

What do you mean by "We have a bike rack that we’d like to have on the back and it looked like that was no problem." ?

MPL

Thanks for the response. You sound way handier than I am! On the 360 we saw at the dealer there was a (not sure what it’s called) hitch capable thing at the back. The kind where we could just slide our bike rack into. Make sense?

Yoshi_TAB

Hi, we tow our ‘25 360CS with a Jeep Grand Cherokee (6200 pound capacity). We find it very capable, it can be a bit poky up steep mountain climbs ( we have done two x country trips with the 360CS), but mostly because it’s how I drive it (don’t gun the accelerator to avoid a lot of tranny shifts). We drive in sport mode also to have less tranny shifts in mountains.

we have had no sway or rear issues and find it tows very smoothly. We do use an Anderson WDH.

We carry either two mountain bikes or e bikes using an Arvika rack which we like a lot.

valkraider

we have had no sway or rear issues and find it tows very smoothly. We do use an Anderson WDH.

Of course - the Andersen is excellent at eliminating sway.

It is one of the things I am considering using, we have had one in the past and it works fantastically. I just don't really have any need for the weight distribution part for a trailer with under 500lbs tongue weight so I have been hesitant to add the extra steps of using the Anderson that are required during every hitch up and disconnect.

Right now it's just so easy to hook up and disconnect - from any angle in any conditions. So I have been just driving a little slower occasionally. ;)

valkraider

On the 360 we saw at the dealer there was a (not sure what it’s called) hitch capable thing at the back. The kind where we could just slide our bike rack into.

Yeah, you can't easily have anything like that on the CS - because of the clamshell galley.

Also - even if you could (I suppose you could have a hitch welded at the bottom of the frame there) - on the CS, which is already rear heavy, that would be a lot of weight very far behind the rear axle.

I would suggest the types of bike racks like Yoshi uses: Arvika racks mount in the front of the trailer above the coupler.

Yoshi_TAB

Hi @valkraider ,

The Anderson is very easy and quick to put on/off…adds no more than a minute. You just use the front jack to take tension off the chains and remove the plate.

We use it (not necessarily for sway) but because the rule of thumb is when the trailer weighs > 50% of the tow vehicle and has a short wheel base (such as the JGC) it transfers weight from the rear back to the front (hence the name WDH) . This is important to keep the OEM force back on the front wheels. The built in sway control is a side benefit, not the primary purpose.

We also cut down vertically about 13 inches off the Arvika rack which makes getting the bikes on/off so much easier much easier.

valkraider

The Anderson is very easy and quick to put on/off…adds no more than a minute. You just use the front jack to take tension off the chains and remove the plate.

Yep, I used an Andersen quite a bit. It's a great hitch. It's certainly not hard to use - but it is harder to use than just the ball. Especially if you can't get a straight(ish) line on the trailer.

But this thread is not to debate the Andersen hitch - I think it's the best hitch out there, I just have "reasons" to not use it right now. Also - I have a good friend who has a lot of experience towing as well, and he HATED the Andersen, he felt like he could never get it straight and had a terrible experience to the point that he ripped it off his trailer and gave it away - so yeah, everyone has their opinions!

This thread, though, is about the 260 CS.

I am working on a project to model the trailer, and play with aerodynamics - and am not very far along - but I do have a basic one set up that kind of shows where I think the problem is.

CAVEATS: this is super basic and simplistic - not a legit scientific case. Fluid dynamics is complex, the model is very incomplete, I don't have the TV modeled in front of it, etc. Also - this is using a very basic wind tunnel simulator.

However - many people way smarter than me have done lots of work and research on this stuff. There is plenty to read up on.

The gist is that the back of the trailer develops a high pressure spot that rips the boundary layer off the trailer violently - and we don't want that. That causes not only a lot of drag, but really unstable wind.

Vortex generators or a spoiler of sorts at the breaking edge on the top rear there would help a lot - just that there are big windows and solar panels there so I am not sure what we could do.

I am noodling on it.

:)

In the interim, I am thinking of getting one of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/trailer-sway-control-kit-96462.html

That way I could completely not use it at all if I didn't want to, or I could have it on and disengage it, or I could have it engaged for highway speeds. Just need to get the little ball welded to the trailer as everyone who bolts them on has problems…

Or - I could just keep my speed below 65mph. :)