"Underbelly Protector"

DurangoTaB

I just finished installing the 2nd, lower pressure, gas regulator (aka "high altitude kit") underneath our T@B, and am a little worried about it being so exposed to the elements.  Here's the response I got from Marvin at NuCamp.  Can someone comment on what's on their (newer) T@B underneath?  Construction, size, attachment, pictures, etc. would be most helpful.

"The installation look good and as for the dust and moisture, we have not had any issue but then again I think so far all of them had the underbelly protector on, you could make a some kind of dust shield."

ColoradoJon

Mine is essentially a black, corrugated plastic sheet.  It is attached to the frame with small, #2 robertson screws and metal slats.  @Tabaz has a good picture where you can see the corrugated plastic and one of the metal strips in the Alde Freight train thread, page 5.  I can try to take some pics later if it isn't raining...

Verna

I had the underbelly liner installed last year. It is as ColoradoJon describes. Mine is covered with mud right now and is not a good candidate for a photo shoot

Tabaz

Its the same material those signs political signs you see every election are made of.  Available at Home Depot. The ones at Lowe's are called "Plaskolite."

Dalehelman

Tabaz said:

Its the same material those signs political signs you see every election are made of.  Available at Home Depot. The ones at Lowe's are called "Plaskolite."

I believe it is a slightly heavier grade than the HD or Lowe's product. 

DurangoTaB

Thanks all...like this?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plaskolite-18-in-x-24-in-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet-1TW1824A/202043334

Dalehelman

Our 2015 did not come with the underbelly. I purchased ours from a local RV dealer parts department. If I remember correctly it came 8' wide and was sold by the running foot. It cost a little less than $100. Since the T@B is only 6' wide there was a little waste waiting to be used for something else. It is definitely heavier than product sold at home improvement stores.

Runtarooti

@Dalehelman How did you attach it? My 2015 needs it.

Dalehelman

Runtarooti said:

@Dalehelman How did you attach it? My 2015 needs it.

Self taping screws with fender washers  about every 10" along the frame rails. I preferred small gaps so as not to trap water and allow ventilation.

hymie

Most plastic shops and sign shops can find this for you. Trade name is "Coroplast". 2,3,4,6,10mm are the common thicknesses. Protector on our Outback looks like 6mm. Cost is about $30 (cdn) for a 4x8 sheet.

Dalehelman

The problem I had with a 4' wide piece was that I would have to piece it together. It requires a piece about 6'x6'. The stuff I found was 8' wide and any  length so I could have one piece. It did cost a little more though. I just check the thickness it's 4mm.

DurangoTaB

Well, we're getting there!  I paid NuCamp about $90 to ship the black underbelly material, screws, trim material, and shipping...but I need help with the install.  I've got messages into Marvin, but he's a busy guy!  
1. They sent the material precut to the 49-1/2" width, but 6ft long...seems I only need 39-1/2" to go from the front cross member to the rear angle under the axle...correct?
2. They sent a bunch of mixed length trim pieces, mostly 3ft, some 2ft, and one 6in....also two 3ft long aluminum angle 'iron' pieces...any thoughts on why the odd mix?
3. Nice to get stainless hex-head self-tapping screws, but they also sent six 1-1/2" fender washers...?
4. One of the pix under "Alde Freight Train" (p.5) showed a LOT of dust on top of this cover.  It appears the forward gap, above the axle, still lets in dust.  Does anyone close that gap with "underbelly" material?
     

Tabaz

#4 - I left the large gaps above the axles open in order to provide an escape of any vented propane from the new regulator. These openings are lower than the position of the regulator.

Tabbieannecamper

Hi J.D. from Durango, I read your forum entry and would like to order the same kit that you did. We have a 2015 Max-S also. Could you list the part number/numbers that you ordered the parts under. Thanks

Gary

Rockford, IL  2015 Max_S

DurangoTaB

Hey Gary...hope this is readable.  Part ID 74-00-6347 for the undersiding ($31), and 78-80-6814 for the aluminum trim ($35).  What's confusing are the invoice order quantities; I'm ignoring the Order Qty and U/M numbers.  Under Part ID/Description it says 49-1/4" x 400' for the plastic (?); what was shipped was 49-1/4" x 6', rolled into a tube.  It also says Alum Seam Binder, MF 16', what I got was the confusing collection of pieces, plus the screws, as noted above....still waiting on an explanation from Marvin.  Hope this helps!

ColoradoJon

#3 - the large washers are used in the aluminum cross member where you do not put any metal trim.  Screw directly through the corrugated plastic, using a large washer.  Three screws in each cross member.

DurangoTaB

@ColoradoJon ... Not sure I understand your comment (but thanks anyway).  Could you possibly take a picture of your installation?  Might be helpful to me & others...

ColoradoJon

DurangoTaB said:

@ColoradoJon ... Not sure I understand your comment (but thanks anyway).  Could you possibly take a picture of your installation?  Might be helpful to me & others...

I'll try, although we have had nothing but rain the last couple days and it is really wet underneath!

On my Outback there is two intermediate aluminum cross members that keep the corrugated plastic from sagging in the middle - the angle iron L pieces you mention in question #2.  These sit in the frame channel and are attached with one screw on each side.

These cross members span side to side, and there are three screws with large washers that go through the corrugated plastic sheeting and into the aluminum cross member.

DurangoTaB

Thanks Jon...that helps a lot!  Makes sense as the "angle iron" is 48-1/2" long.  Now I'm trying to understand all the odd aluminum "trim" pieces (two-50", 1@48-1/2", 2@25", 1@22", and 1@5").  They add up to a little more than 16ft, which would kinda make sense for the four 4ft sides...but why not just send four 4ft pieces.  Guess I'll have to wait until they all get back from the camp/rally.  Thanks again!  (p.s. I understand about the rain...we're finally getting some good monsoon rains down here...we'll take it!).

ColoradoJon

Boy, I'm not sure why there would be so many pieces either!  I'll definitely try to take a closer look this evening when I get home from work.  My wife says its raining pretty good but it normally slows down or stops by the time I get home

ColoradoJon

@DurangoTab -

Ok, I crawled underneath to check it out.  Yeah, got a little wet!

Start at the rear:
the 48 1/2" piece goes on the rear frame crossmember, side to side.

One of the aluminum angle brackets is located 19-20" from the back edge of the rear crossmember.  Three hex head screws and a large washer are used to attach the liner to the angle bracket.

The two 50" pieces go from the rear crossmember forward, one on each side.  These follow the contour of the frame rails.  Finish each side forward with one 25" piece.

The other aluminum angle bracket is place just forward of the fresh water drain valve, approximately 6-8".  Same hex screws and large washers are used.  Sorry, it was tough to measure as the frame curves.

The 22" piece goes on the passenger side front edge (side to side), and stops at the black tank drain pipe.

The 5" piece finishes the front edge on the other side of the black tank drain pipe.

Hope this helps!

DurangoTaB

Whoa brother Jon...Thanks!!!  I owe you a batch of green chiles!  Thanks
so much from the more Western Slope...

ColoradoJon

Ooh ooh!  Green Chiles!  I really need to get out your way again... one of these days.

Glad to help, let me know if you need any clarifications.

DurangoTaB

I've gotten replies from Scott Hubble, but apparently Marvin's been busy with the camporama and another client in Iowa.  The front end of our 2014/15 SMaax must be different than yours.  The black tank outlet is outside the channel and forward cross-member.  Our FW drain valve is WAY up front on the very NW corner of the T@B, so not in the way.  What is in the way, by a lot, is the gray water tank.  All details, questions, and pictures sent to Marvin for help.  

We have a trailer guy, who used to be next to the T@B dealer (now gone), who's supposed to be pretty good.  I'm going to take this mess to him and maybe he can make some suggestions (like just boxing in the new regulator?).  If I install the new underbelly I will definitely have a problem with my A/C condensate drain, and possibly create a problem for the under-body Norcold vent.  I'm also a little worried about any propane leaks underneath (lines, connections, or the new valve)...they'll be boxed in.  If that Norcold is running on propane (i.e. flame/ignition) it could be ugly.  

ColoradoJon

Awww... it's always something.  Sorry that it isn't working out so easy for you.  If I was closer I'd wander over and take a look

DurangoTaB

Thanks anyway!  I'll have to check with Andrew here in Durango to see about organizing another "T@Borado" rally at Haviland Campground (about 20mi north of Durango).  Perhaps you can come then (we'll bring the green chiles!).

Verna

@DurangoTaB, try sending an email to Austin in repairs at repairs@nucamprv.com. He helped Marvin put the underbelly protectors on Michigan_Mike and my T@B's last year. Austin is now the Manager for the repairs division and Marvin works in warranty. 

DurangoTaB

I gave up on Marvin/Austin and today installed  what I think was a better/safer solution.

I installed the cover just over the new regulator.  It's 12" long (front-back) and 28" wide, fitting between the the right channel and the side of the gray water tank. The rear of the plastic is held to the cross member by self tapping screws, with black silicone underneath.  I didn't seal the middle section so it can act as a low point vent for any vented propane (and facing backwards it shouldn't let too much dust or water in).  The front of the plastic is held to the underside plywood with wood screws, aluminum trim, and polyurethane Liquid Nails.  On the side next to the gray water tank I cut out 2 teardrop shaped pieces of 1-1/2" pink rigid foam to close the gap; it's wedged under the rear cross member and poly-LN glued to the bottom...pretty tight fit. 

I hope this helps anyone with similar problems!  Any questions, please feel free to ask...

 

DurangoTaB

Confirmation from Scott, Ed, and Marvin..."I saw the infamous Marvin this AM!!! Seriously, I did hear back from both Ed and Marvin and they said you did it perfectly"

ColoradoJon

Nice!  Glad you got it sorted out