Looking for help! New 2018 320S manufactured April 2017, purchased September 2017. Just finished first camping trip and the Norwood 3 way model 180.3 fridge will not work on shore power. I have checked every forum, checked breaker and both fuses and traced power through the 1amp fuse to the mode switch and thermostat. Works normally on propane and 12v. Any ideas out there before I call Norcold?
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
0 ·
Comments
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
One other thing to look out for which happened to me with the same fridge, when switching between different power sources (or LP), mine suddenly was not working on 12V, even when 110 and LP worked fine.
I read on the forum to try flipping through all settings on the temp control & power source dials from min to max, which can sometimes reset the system if something is not working right. After sweeping each control knob a few times everything was working good as new once again.
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Another side note, the Norcold tech told me that if it chills on gas 99.9% of the time it will work on AC regardless of indicators. She said although the heating units are separate the circuitry is basically redundant.
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Alan & Patty
Southern Az
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Alan & Patty
Southern Az
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
@weber3 the decal that @rcuomo is talking about is a firm plastic overlay which is printed/silkscreened with what you see around the knobs. Like the post stated above you have to find a point where you can grab the edge and gently peel it back. Based on the parts list for the Norcold, I am fairly certain you need to start on the left hand side (the right hand side has a tab which goes into the faceplate).
So what I did was
0) unplug the fridge from 120v supply under the sink; probably should have disconnected the 12v/battery (but I did not do that)
1) remove the 3 knobs (they simply pull off)
2) remove the panel control door (from the left, gently bend the door and pop the pin from the control panel assembly)
3) with a pair of long nosed tweezers and a pick gently peel back the firm plastic decal/graphics - just far enough to expose the LEDs
4) from the top/inside under the stove give the LED a simple twist as described above, it'll click, and push the LED through the front panel
5) I disconnected the leads from where they are connected to the Norcold and removed the entire 120v LED and took it to the workbench
6) I snipped the old LED away and soldered the new LED to the leads which came from the Norcold
7) tested with 120v to ensure it would light when powered with 120v
8) reversed #5 - put the leads back through the front, reconnecting the leads back from whence they came
9) reversed #4 - pushed the new LED back into the hole where the old one came out - fit like a glove! (I did not need to do a twist to "lock it in" - it was tight enough)
10) pushed the firm plastic decal/graphics back into place - moving right to left. I thought I'd need some sticky stuff to help re-apply, but I don't seem to need it (i could come undone later--if that is the case, i'll add sticky stuff)
11) reversed #2 - put the panel control door back on
12) reversed #1 - put the control knobs back on
13) plug the fridge back in to the 120v supply under the sink
Test and enjoy a working 120v / shore power indicator LED