Trim is what 'type' of plastic? for crack repairs

ChanW

Our propane/battery tub lid (hinge area) has 'developed' a crack (ok, I cracked it... ), and I'd like to repair it.

Does anyone have any experience repairing the trim plastic on the Tab, specifically gluing/welding/reinforcing a crack?

If I knew what solvent/glue might melt and weld this type of plastic, I'd go with that. Maybe even trying a soldering iron to heat it and actually weld it (not sure I'd trust doing that)?

My sledge hammer solution will be to rough up the surface, and use Marine-Tex epoxy, in combination with some fiberglass fabric, on the inside (where it won't show), and probably also apply some reinforcement to the outside, perhaps painting it to make it look right.

ScottG

I'd probably do the same thing as you suggested, maybe even settling for a strip of duct tape on the back, depending on how much reinforcement you actually need.

I'd also be skittish about melting anything with a soldering iron...  :-0

ChanW

Yes, I'm concerned that the flexing of opening and closing the lid might strain the joint, with the crack so close to the hinge.

I'm thinking maybe a thinner epoxy than Marine Tex will be easier to work with.

I have no experience with the thinner "System Three" epoxy, only West Systems, but I don't think West Systems is available in small quantities.

Geo

@ChanW -  not sure of what Nucamp is using now, however my '04 DM T@B's plastic fenders glued up perfectly using PVC plumbing glue. Melted just enough to bond together with no distortion, still holding after several years.

Try a small spot and test results.

ChanW

@Geo, great idea, thanks. I hadn't thought of PVC cement. If it works, I also might be able to reinforce it with a backer plate, made from the scrap PVC lumber I have hanging around.

Will have to check!

grassgd

I repaired some cracks on my T@b 320 tub by using a  soldering iron to carefully melt the two edges together.  My cracks were underneath where it turns under to form the bottom edge and not visible.  Cracks were caused by something impacting bottom of tub and only about 2 inches long.  If you needed or wanted to add some additional material to reinforce the crack from the inside of the surface, you could carefully cut a small sliver of material from the edge of the tub underneath where mine was cracked and carefully melt it with the soldering iron along the repaired crack adding additional material - just like if you were welding with steel.  I hope I explained this clear enough.

(Edited for photo size.)

ChanW

Ha! Wow, nice job.
I thought about that, and have tried it with plastics before, without success. 
I was able to simply glue it using PVC cement. I didn't use any reinforcing backing. It seems to be holding well after a year-and-a-half!
I'll keep 'welding' in mind for the future!

Geo

@grassgd,  plastic welding works great on ABS plastic (black pipe, etc.) somewhat successful with PVC plastic. I found that it tended to burn the PVC and turn it black.
@ChanW , glad to hear the PVC cement idea worked for you. My cracked fender has held up very well for several years - used the PVC plumbers glue. 

grassgd

Geo said:

@grassgd,  plastic welding works great on ABS plastic (black pipe, etc.) somewhat successful with PVC plastic. I found that it tended to burn the PVC and turn it black.

I'm not sure if the tub is PVC or ABS but it will turn black if over heated.  I was careful to control the heat when using the soldering iron on my tub and as you can see it didn't turn black.

ChanW

Yes it did! Thanks @Geo.

Geo said:

.......
@ChanW , glad to hear the PVC cement idea worked for you. My cracked fender has held up very well for several years - used the PVC plumbers glue.