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Electric Brake Repair

Cherokee
Cherokee Member Posts: 346
in Modifications & Upgrades
After years of bumpy trails and long miles on pavement, the brake wire on the passenger side pulled out of it's crimp connection. I removed the crimps, soldered the wires, rapped them in electrical tape and encased the wires in 1/2" Beaded Wire Loom.

Looks a little better and certainly wont pull out again!
TV:2019 Nissan Frontier PRO-4X With an Old Man Emu lift
Trailer: 2019 T@B 320 Boondock with a Lock&Roll Coupler & Jack-e-up
Custom fabricated metal bottom cladding
California, USA
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Comments

  • Bill&Suze
    Bill&Suze Member Posts: 174
    How did you happen to discover this, during a routine look or out on a trip?
    Susan & Bill, Yarmouth, Maine
    2024 T@B 400 Boondock Black Canyon
    2024 Kia EV9
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  • boathealer
    boathealer Member Posts: 47
    You might find a way to pin up the wires around the new connection such that there is NO mechanical stress on your solder joint.  Solder *WILL* break over time with lots of vibration (reference marine industry recommendations).
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  • Cherokee
    Cherokee Member Posts: 346
    Bill&Suze said:
    How did you happen to discover this, during a routine look or out on a trip?

    Yes - looking around is always a good idea
    TV:2019 Nissan Frontier PRO-4X With an Old Man Emu lift
    Trailer: 2019 T@B 320 Boondock with a Lock&Roll Coupler & Jack-e-up
    Custom fabricated metal bottom cladding
    California, USA
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • Cherokee
    Cherokee Member Posts: 346
    boathealer said:
    You might find a way to pin up the wires around the new connection such that there is NO mechanical stress on your solder joint.  Solder *WILL* break over time with lots of vibration (reference marine industry recommendations).

    I agree - that may be a problem. First, I tried to find crimp connections, but the metal sleeves in the ones I could find for 10 to 12 Gage wire, were too short for the 3 wires. So I resorted to flux and solider. The wires were inter-locked before soldering and tightly rapped with tape and wire loom. Hopefully, the wires will stay inter-locked if the solder fails. Due to the movement of "pitched axle" there's a twisting movement at this intersection that a bracket wouldn't prevent. Short of removing the bottom cladding and rewiring the entire assembly, I'm stuck with this solution. Any ideas?    
    TV:2019 Nissan Frontier PRO-4X With an Old Man Emu lift
    Trailer: 2019 T@B 320 Boondock with a Lock&Roll Coupler & Jack-e-up
    Custom fabricated metal bottom cladding
    California, USA
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  • donmontalvo
    donmontalvo Member Posts: 187
    edited April 2025
    Solder seal FTW.
    https://a.co/d/0ZcczlO


    Similar issue, though the wire on my 2024 320s had lots of slack, so wore through. I made sure there is enough slack to accommodate torsion axle travel, but not so much to have the same issue happen again.

    Used a self tapping screw and 1/4” wire clamp for security, and an extra layer of adhesive heat shrink over the repair. I also caulked the gusseted opening to keep dirt, water, and critters out.


    Don Montalvo | Retired Veteran | Full time boondocker
    Camper: nuCamp T@B 320S BBC | 12V 2x100Ah LiFePO4 | 600W Solar
    Tow Vehicle: Jeep JLU Rubicon | 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 | 200W Solar
    https://revkit.com/donmontalvo/ | https://donmontalvo.com
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  • Cherokee
    Cherokee Member Posts: 346
    boathealer said:
    You might find a way to pin up the wires around the new connection such that there is NO mechanical stress on your solder joint.  Solder *WILL* break over time with lots of vibration (reference marine industry recommendations).

    Thanks again, I looked at the flange around the punched holes on my 320 cold rolled frame and realized they were deep enough for for a bracket. Running in this axis, there should be no additional strain on the wires or the connection while securing them. And I've never regretted securing something.
    TV:2019 Nissan Frontier PRO-4X With an Old Man Emu lift
    Trailer: 2019 T@B 320 Boondock with a Lock&Roll Coupler & Jack-e-up
    Custom fabricated metal bottom cladding
    California, USA
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+

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