I just finished winterizing our 2017 T@B 320S from our 3rd. season. Every year I wonder why they arranged the outdoor shower valves the way they did. In the summer valve positions, you blow out the water and drain the pipes and then put the valves in the winter position and add the RV antifreeze. After introducing the anti freeze you're supposed to allow some to run out of each faucet to ensure the pink stuff is actually there in the fixture. With the valves in the winter position, you can only run the cold outside shower faucet. Trying to run the hot only backfeeds into the hot water side of the Alde.(See Photo 1). Is the long PEX fitting behind the hot water isolation valve (See Photo 2) a check valve or some kind of back flow preventer? There is one of these on the cold water side too. It seems like the hot isolation valve and the "tee" going to the hot side of the outdoor faucet should be reversed so that both sides of the outside shower could be bled. Any thoughts from you engineer types?


Earl & Sue | Central NY |
2017 T@B 320S | TV: Chevy Silverado
Comments
I fully disconnected the outside shower.
IMHO outside shower is far more trouble than a benefit {marketing at its best?}
Plus removing those extra flexible water lines really cleaned up the Adle compartment.
When winterizing I use the Air Blowout Method and don't refill the system with anti-freeze. Yes, I do put some in the pump and tanks but why fill the whole system? After all nearly all the water is gone and when it freezes there is lots and lots of empty space for the ice to expand into.
I do four-season-camping and this method has worked fine for 6+ years.
During winter bottled water is used for cooking/drinking and a 50% anti-freeze mix to 'flush' the toilet.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 56 Nights: 379 Towing Miles 47,220
Have a nice day.
2018 T@B 320 CS-S; Alde 3020; 4 cyl 2020 Subaru Outback Onyx XT