Best Of
Simple performance boost for Air8 air conditioner
With several discussions about air conditioning (lack of) performance, I thought I'd share this...
During a very hot, humid day camping in full sun I noticed the Air8 struggling to keep up interior cooling. I also noticed warm air wafting from under the right rear of the camper. The warm air exhaust from the Air8 was hitting the ground, lingering under the trailer and being drawn into the air inlet of the air conditioner. I took the lid of a Rubbermaid container and wedged it in place under the trailer along the frame to make a barrier between the inlet and outlet vents. The Air8 output was almost immediately cooler and the system was keeping the interior much more comfortable.
I've had a similar problem with a CoolCat in the past and a simple deflector hood on the exhaust vent provided an effective solution. I was able to fabricate a simple hood out of some Plasticore material and Gorilla duct tape for the Air8 that directs the exhaust away from the inlet. It is so effective the warm air can be felt exiting from under the left rear now.
I think something similar could be added to any Air8 installation for a noticeable improvement in efficiency.
During a very hot, humid day camping in full sun I noticed the Air8 struggling to keep up interior cooling. I also noticed warm air wafting from under the right rear of the camper. The warm air exhaust from the Air8 was hitting the ground, lingering under the trailer and being drawn into the air inlet of the air conditioner. I took the lid of a Rubbermaid container and wedged it in place under the trailer along the frame to make a barrier between the inlet and outlet vents. The Air8 output was almost immediately cooler and the system was keeping the interior much more comfortable.
I've had a similar problem with a CoolCat in the past and a simple deflector hood on the exhaust vent provided an effective solution. I was able to fabricate a simple hood out of some Plasticore material and Gorilla duct tape for the Air8 that directs the exhaust away from the inlet. It is so effective the warm air can be felt exiting from under the left rear now.
I think something similar could be added to any Air8 installation for a noticeable improvement in efficiency.
Re: Norcold 180.3 Out and Vitrifrigo C62IXD4-F In
Finally getting around to posting finished picture:
The top compartment on the right is the air inlet, The middle compartment is for storage and the bottom compartment is the hot air exhaust. There is a plug used to block off the outside vents from the inside to change the air from outside to inside when the compartment door is removed. Have only used it in very hot weather (100 degree temperature) and it had no trouble keeping in the teens and low 20's in the freezer.
Replacing Danby Air Conditioner with Midea MAW06R1WWT
The Danby Air Conditioner in my 2018 Tab320S was no longer blowing cold. I had bought a Midea MAW06R1WWT from Walmart in the sale last year for $109 for use the house but never got around to installing it, so I thought I'd see if it would fit the enclosure in the Tab. Sure enough the front dimensions are identical, but the depth is a couple of inches shorter than the Danby. The only change I needed to make was to attach of a couple of short pieces of wood to the end of each rail in the enclosure to prevent the possibility of the air conditioner sliding back towards the wall vent since it's a bit shorter. The new air conditioner not only blows cold (and is 6000 BTU vs 5000 BTU in the Danby), but is quite the upgrade since it has a remote, four way vents, digital temperature control, 24 hour timer, 3 cooling modes and 3 fan speeds, sleep mode, comfort sense (not sure what this is lol). Also it came with some foam strips which I packed around the unit before I put the frame back, so there's no air gaps around the unit.
There are other air conditioners mentioned in this forum, but the threads are quite old and the links to the units either dead or the unit is not readily available. The Midea MAW06R1WWT is still available at Walmart, albeit at full price though vs the sale price I bought it at. You never know though perhaps it will go on sale in the Fall again.
Here's some pics of the unit and the install:
The only slight concern I have is there's no angled baffles on the back of the unit like the Danby has. However I figure with the additional volume in the back of the enclosure, perhaps it doesn't matter. Will be interesting to try the unit this Summer and see how it goes.
Re: 12 volt fridge
The 12V fridge can draw somewhere between 25 and 35 amp hours per day depending on use plus ambient day and night time temperatures. So if you have a single 100Ah LiFePO4, you will get about three days with minimal use of other current draws. In reality, we use up to 50Ah per day total, but it is offset by solar. With solar, we can dry camping indefinitely most of the time.
Edit to add that you didn't specify what battery you have. If it's a standard 80Ah lead acid you will only have about 40Ah of usable power. The math says you'd only get one day at best.
Edit to add that you didn't specify what battery you have. If it's a standard 80Ah lead acid you will only have about 40Ah of usable power. The math says you'd only get one day at best.
Re: Underbelly bolts keep breaking off on 2021 NuCamp Tab400
Forgive the rant here...
In general the RV industry, though subject to some scrutiny by DOT, industry associations, etc., is somewhat less than stellar in its overall satisfaction index. Always has been and likely will be for the foreseeable future. I know some folks who spent $800K on a Prevost Class A...they've spent almost as much time waiting for it to come back out of the shop as they have rolling down the road. Granted with that kind of money one does expect perfection and they are a pretty particular couple, but...money isn't always the gauge of reliability. And to others' point, for what we're talking about here...a 19', single axle, teardrop trailer in the $35K price range with a few not-so-standard designs and systems, nuCamp does tend to rise above the rest of the field. But that doesn't mean they are immune to QC issues, inferior supplier materials, etc. I suppose if you carry that argument out further (as someone mentioned elsewhere), it's really sort of akin to being regarded as the "biggest dwarf in the forest."
Ever purchase a new car with top-of-the-line accessories that never went in for warranty work? Ever purchased a new laptop that never crashed under a warranty period? How about a major appliance? These things happen and they happen fairly often. Its manufacturing...its human nature. Designed by humans, sourced by humans, built my humans, operated by humans. Of course there are going to be faults and flaws...just like humans.
You have to be own best advocate. There is so much out here on the "www." to help you guide your research, purchase, and ownership issues that relying on what your dealer told you is doing yourself a disservice. Forums such this are incredibly helpful in offering real-world advice based on real-world experiences. But you can't stop there. Get curious...read. Search online for info the various systems and download the manuals for the Jensen, Alde, Thetford, Dometic, Victron, Nautilus systems, etc.
I purchased my rig a little over a year ago and still haven't turned every page of every manual but I'm getting there. I'd say I found more good information on this Forum than almost anywhere else I've looked. And I'd also say to date I have no regrets about this purchase and ownership experience. And that includes a couple warranty issues myself (reversed Black Tank Flush system; and the dreaded "Air 8" matter). I'd like to think it's a bit more than luck.
Frankly, with all the variables manufacturers are dealing with during this pandemic (lack of skilled staff, supply-chain issues, materials shortages, and so on) it's a wonder nuCamp is still cranking out rigs, Boeing is still cranking out airplanes, Detroit is still cranking out automobiles, Whirlpool is still cranking out appliances, etc.
FWIW, to those on here who are in the midst of purchasing a T@B or strongly considering one, don't let the nature and tone of this Forum color your judgment too much. By its very nature, a forum such as this is designed to address suboptimal performance and offer advice on finding a reliable solution. That's what happens here...and it works out pretty darn well. It shouldn't necessarily be a barometer nuCamp's overall quality and customer service. That said, I'd venture say 80-90% of comments on here regarding nuCamp's quality and CS are positive. I'm no apologist for nuCamp, and I expect a level of CS that is at least as high as most everyone else on this forum. Let that also be your guide.
If you're in the market for trailer that comes in under $35K and meets or exceeds industry standards (again, a relative term) in most, if not virutually all, areas, nuCamp can compete and win with anything in the marketplace.
OK...soapbox back under the desk now.
In general the RV industry, though subject to some scrutiny by DOT, industry associations, etc., is somewhat less than stellar in its overall satisfaction index. Always has been and likely will be for the foreseeable future. I know some folks who spent $800K on a Prevost Class A...they've spent almost as much time waiting for it to come back out of the shop as they have rolling down the road. Granted with that kind of money one does expect perfection and they are a pretty particular couple, but...money isn't always the gauge of reliability. And to others' point, for what we're talking about here...a 19', single axle, teardrop trailer in the $35K price range with a few not-so-standard designs and systems, nuCamp does tend to rise above the rest of the field. But that doesn't mean they are immune to QC issues, inferior supplier materials, etc. I suppose if you carry that argument out further (as someone mentioned elsewhere), it's really sort of akin to being regarded as the "biggest dwarf in the forest."
Ever purchase a new car with top-of-the-line accessories that never went in for warranty work? Ever purchased a new laptop that never crashed under a warranty period? How about a major appliance? These things happen and they happen fairly often. Its manufacturing...its human nature. Designed by humans, sourced by humans, built my humans, operated by humans. Of course there are going to be faults and flaws...just like humans.
You have to be own best advocate. There is so much out here on the "www." to help you guide your research, purchase, and ownership issues that relying on what your dealer told you is doing yourself a disservice. Forums such this are incredibly helpful in offering real-world advice based on real-world experiences. But you can't stop there. Get curious...read. Search online for info the various systems and download the manuals for the Jensen, Alde, Thetford, Dometic, Victron, Nautilus systems, etc.
I purchased my rig a little over a year ago and still haven't turned every page of every manual but I'm getting there. I'd say I found more good information on this Forum than almost anywhere else I've looked. And I'd also say to date I have no regrets about this purchase and ownership experience. And that includes a couple warranty issues myself (reversed Black Tank Flush system; and the dreaded "Air 8" matter). I'd like to think it's a bit more than luck.
Frankly, with all the variables manufacturers are dealing with during this pandemic (lack of skilled staff, supply-chain issues, materials shortages, and so on) it's a wonder nuCamp is still cranking out rigs, Boeing is still cranking out airplanes, Detroit is still cranking out automobiles, Whirlpool is still cranking out appliances, etc.
FWIW, to those on here who are in the midst of purchasing a T@B or strongly considering one, don't let the nature and tone of this Forum color your judgment too much. By its very nature, a forum such as this is designed to address suboptimal performance and offer advice on finding a reliable solution. That's what happens here...and it works out pretty darn well. It shouldn't necessarily be a barometer nuCamp's overall quality and customer service. That said, I'd venture say 80-90% of comments on here regarding nuCamp's quality and CS are positive. I'm no apologist for nuCamp, and I expect a level of CS that is at least as high as most everyone else on this forum. Let that also be your guide.
If you're in the market for trailer that comes in under $35K and meets or exceeds industry standards (again, a relative term) in most, if not virutually all, areas, nuCamp can compete and win with anything in the marketplace.
OK...soapbox back under the desk now.
Water coming out of city water inlet. City water check valve stuck open.
This is not a question, it’s an answer that I couldn’t find searching the forum. I’m trying to put a search term in the title that will help others.
Recently, while disconnected from city water and relying on my fresh water tank, I turned on the water pump and had water coming out of my city water inlet - a significant flow. This meant that the check valve, or “one-way valve” that is at my city water inlet had somehow stuck open. When this valve works correctly, water will not pass from the fresh water tank through the pump and out of the city water port. To fix the problem all I had to do was pop off the little screen at the city water port and gently press the visible valve (white button) with my finger a couple of times. This unstuck the valve and fixed the problem.
I have a 2019 Tab 320, but that doesn’t really matter. Apparently it’s a common problem with an easy fix on many models.
Recently, while disconnected from city water and relying on my fresh water tank, I turned on the water pump and had water coming out of my city water inlet - a significant flow. This meant that the check valve, or “one-way valve” that is at my city water inlet had somehow stuck open. When this valve works correctly, water will not pass from the fresh water tank through the pump and out of the city water port. To fix the problem all I had to do was pop off the little screen at the city water port and gently press the visible valve (white button) with my finger a couple of times. This unstuck the valve and fixed the problem.
I have a 2019 Tab 320, but that doesn’t really matter. Apparently it’s a common problem with an easy fix on many models.
Re: Kitchen Question
I have a clamshell and I have another reason for liking it that I rarely see mentioned. At least a few times a year I share my campsite with friends who are tent campers and the clamshell allows them access to all the cooking gear/facilities without having to come into my trailer. I set up a table & chairs at the back at that becomes our hang out space.
Re: KIB Gray/Fresh water Panel issue
Update.
After tracing and testing all the wiring from tanks to panel - all I could figure out was that the circuit board itself must have failed. I called the KIB number I found online. It was answered as "American Technology Company", the outfit that acquired KIB.
I was promptly routed to Sales/Service and talked to Walt. He spent time walking me me through the different issues I'd experienced and the trouble shooting I'd done to date. He ended up concluding that it probably was the circuit board. I ordered a new one from Walt for just $15.00 plus shipping and got it a few days later. Couldn't believe the cost was so reasonable.
I installed the board today and it solved the issues (initially mis-registering the gray/fresh water tank levels, and the subsequent issue of both tanks always showing full). Now when they are empty they show empty, and when only one tank or the other is filling, the level shows for the proper tank.
As far as the service from the local dealership - I had previously reported it to Megan at NuCamp. Apparently and unfortunately they have little actual control over dealership policies and practices. And with the boom in trailer sales these past few years - the dealer in question apparently has little motivation to be proactive.
Anyway happy to have the issue resolved and really happy with the service from Walt at KIB/ATC.
FYI - Jeff
Installed the KickAss brand awning on my 2023 320s Boondock
I looked at the bonnet style awnings that slide into the Keder rail and decided that just wasn’t for me. I prefer a simple traditional style awning. So I purchased this awning from KickAss Products USA. https://kickassproducts.com/products/kickass-2-0m-x-2-5m-heavy-duty-awning-with-led-light-strip It’s 6.5 x 8 feet and uses built in poles with a couple tent stakes. I like the way it looks and the ease of setting up. It has a LED light strip that plugs into USB as a bonus. It was tricky to install on the Keder rail but came out real well.
NuCamp Screen Door Upgrade Installation in 2013 T@B Maxx (inside kitchen)
I purchased the screen door from NuCamp (about $200 total with shipping) and installed it today. I emailed NuCamp but they don't provide instructions, and searched this forum and Facebook and couldn't find specific installation photos for my particular T@B, so wanted to post them here. I found conflicting reports of having to cut countertops and cabinet doors. Note: Your T@B may be different from mine, so take these as documentation of what I did to make it work in my trailer, which has an interior kitchen (not a clamshell). Your T@B is probably different, but hopefully this gives at least an idea of what could be required to do this mod.
I received from NuCamp:
1 screen door
2 metal brackets, each had two screws permanently set into them (do not mess with these)
2 long self tapping screws
2 short wood screws, flat head
8 self tapping screws (about 1")
2 plastic covers
I removed the fire extinguisher and knob from the lower right floor cabinet.
I cut the velcro from the areas that I wanted the bracket to sit flush with the wall.
After cutting. Note the large gap between the metal and the wall. This is hidden by the velcro. If you remove all the velcro, you will have this hideous gap, which is why I only removed the portion of where I wanted the bracket to sit.
I removed the cabinet door:
I removed the fridge door, one screw. This was because I couldn't get a good angle on the self-tapping screw on the left bracket.
Right bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door):
Left bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door)
Hung door onto screws that are attached to brackets (each bracket has two screws that come pre-mounted):
Used provided long self tapping screws to anchor upper left and upper right corners to wall:
Snapped on provided end caps
Decided against installing two floor screws, these felt like they were not needed and I didn't have a long enough bit to fully seat the screws and felt like I was messing up the delicate fuzz of the track. So I didn't install the two screws into the floor. I saved them for later, in case I changed my mind.
Relocated fire extinguisher just a little bit to clear the new screen door.
I decided to just move upper cabinet door over, versus cutting it. There was enough room and while this does create an asymmetrical cabinet gap, it bothered me less than cutting the cabinet door. Of course, I can always change my mind later and cut the door to get a symmetrical gap. But then the cabinet doors wouldn't match each other. So I figured best to just move the door and see how that works. What is important, is that there was enough clearance for the door to swing open without cutting it.
Here's the final fridge door gap:
and countertop clearance:
trimmed my carpeting:
and final photos:
Special thanks to @Dalehelman for being home and willing to describe how his screen door was attached. It's also important to note that Dale's T@B was very different from mine, in that his countertop had a notch in it for the screen door. So it's possible that others will need to cut cabinets and cut countertops - just in my particular case, I didn't. I wound up with 2 extra self tapping screws and 2 wood screws left over.
Jill
I received from NuCamp:
1 screen door
2 metal brackets, each had two screws permanently set into them (do not mess with these)
2 long self tapping screws
2 short wood screws, flat head
8 self tapping screws (about 1")
2 plastic covers
I removed the fire extinguisher and knob from the lower right floor cabinet.
I cut the velcro from the areas that I wanted the bracket to sit flush with the wall.
After cutting. Note the large gap between the metal and the wall. This is hidden by the velcro. If you remove all the velcro, you will have this hideous gap, which is why I only removed the portion of where I wanted the bracket to sit.
I removed the cabinet door:
I removed the fridge door, one screw. This was because I couldn't get a good angle on the self-tapping screw on the left bracket.
Right bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door):
Left bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door)
Hung door onto screws that are attached to brackets (each bracket has two screws that come pre-mounted):
Used provided long self tapping screws to anchor upper left and upper right corners to wall:
Snapped on provided end caps
Decided against installing two floor screws, these felt like they were not needed and I didn't have a long enough bit to fully seat the screws and felt like I was messing up the delicate fuzz of the track. So I didn't install the two screws into the floor. I saved them for later, in case I changed my mind.
Relocated fire extinguisher just a little bit to clear the new screen door.
I decided to just move upper cabinet door over, versus cutting it. There was enough room and while this does create an asymmetrical cabinet gap, it bothered me less than cutting the cabinet door. Of course, I can always change my mind later and cut the door to get a symmetrical gap. But then the cabinet doors wouldn't match each other. So I figured best to just move the door and see how that works. What is important, is that there was enough clearance for the door to swing open without cutting it.
Here's the final fridge door gap:
and countertop clearance:
trimmed my carpeting:
and final photos:
Special thanks to @Dalehelman for being home and willing to describe how his screen door was attached. It's also important to note that Dale's T@B was very different from mine, in that his countertop had a notch in it for the screen door. So it's possible that others will need to cut cabinets and cut countertops - just in my particular case, I didn't. I wound up with 2 extra self tapping screws and 2 wood screws left over.
Jill
