Best Of

I looked at the bonnet style awnings that slide into the Keder rail and decided that just wasn’t for me. I prefer a simple traditional style awning. So I purchased this awning from KickAss Products USA. https://kickassproducts.com/products/kickass-2-0m-x-2-5m-heavy-duty-awning-with-led-light-strip It’s 6.5 x 8 feet and uses built in poles with a couple tent stakes. I like the way it looks and the ease of setting up. It has a LED light strip that plugs into USB as a bonus. It was tricky to install on the Keder rail but came out real well.

I purchased the screen door from NuCamp (about $200 total with shipping) and installed it today. I emailed NuCamp but they don't provide instructions, and searched this forum and Facebook and couldn't find specific installation photos for my particular T@B, so wanted to post them here. I found conflicting reports of having to cut countertops and cabinet doors. Note: Your T@B may be different from mine, so take these as documentation of what I did to make it work in my trailer, which has an interior kitchen (not a clamshell). Your T@B is probably different, but hopefully this gives at least an idea of what could be required to do this mod.



I received from NuCamp:
1 screen door
2 metal brackets, each had two screws permanently set into them (do not mess with these)
2 long self tapping screws
2 short wood screws, flat head
8 self tapping screws (about 1")
2 plastic covers

I removed the fire extinguisher and knob from the lower right floor cabinet.



I cut the velcro from the areas that I wanted the bracket to sit flush with the wall.



After cutting. Note the large gap between the metal and the wall. This is hidden by the velcro. If you remove all the velcro, you will have this hideous gap, which is why I only removed the portion of where I wanted the bracket to sit.



I removed the cabinet door:



I removed the fridge door, one screw. This was because I couldn't get a good angle on the self-tapping screw on the left bracket.




Right bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door):



Left bracket install, 3 self tapping screws (came with door)



Hung door onto screws that are attached to brackets (each bracket has two screws that come pre-mounted):



Used provided long self tapping screws to anchor upper left and upper right corners to wall:





Snapped on provided end caps





Decided against installing two floor screws, these felt like they were not needed and I didn't have a long enough bit to fully seat the screws and felt like I was messing up the delicate fuzz of the track. So I didn't install the two screws into the floor. I saved them for later, in case I changed my mind.






Relocated fire extinguisher just a little bit to clear the new screen door.



I decided to just move upper cabinet door over, versus cutting it. There was enough room and while this does create an asymmetrical cabinet gap, it bothered me less than cutting the cabinet door. Of course, I can always change my mind later and cut the door to get a symmetrical gap. But then the cabinet doors wouldn't match each other. So I figured best to just move the door and see how that works. What is important, is that there was enough clearance for the door to swing open without cutting it.







Here's the final fridge door gap:



and countertop clearance:



trimmed my carpeting:



and final photos:







Special thanks to @Dalehelman for being home and willing to describe how his screen door was attached. It's also important to note that Dale's T@B was very different from mine, in that his countertop had a notch in it for the screen door. So it's possible that others will need to cut cabinets and cut countertops - just in my particular case, I didn't. I wound up with 2 extra self tapping screws and 2 wood screws left over.

Jill

We decided that a 27" width was going to be a good size for us and leave ample walking room in between.  We already had 2" foam roll-up toppers and sheet setups in that size from some of our other "adventures".

I took out the sliding bed platforms altogether.  I then moved the forward vertical wall out about 3-4 inches - about 2-3 inches shy of the 27 inch total width.  This was possible without very much trouble on either side with the was the pieces were fastened.  I then made new hinged tops that were 27" wide in total.  I stained them black to match the cabinetry.  Here is a photo of some of that work in progress (along with electrical mods going on):



On the drivers side, I have installed all of the electrical systems (Tow vehicle charger, rooftop solar charger, external suitcase charger, 2000W inverter, AC switching and fuses for 12V extras).  I added a gas cylinder and an automatic light to come on when open.  I replaced the WFCO box with a quiet muffin fan with temperature sensing to come on if it got too warm in there.....



On the other side, the additional room by moving the forward wall allowed for a nice shoe storage bin, with light of course 



Finally we had new cushions made with high-end 4" foam and good fabric.  I think it came out pretty good.  We got rid of all the side cushions in favor of a small (easy storage when sleeping) deep back cushion for sitting on the now longer base seats.  You can also see the fold-down mini drink tables we put on each side.  Excuse the cardboard still protecting the floor from all my mistakes!!!