Here’s what I did to change my Alde fluid. It worked well with very little mess. I’ll break this post up in two sections: 1) How I created the tools and 2) The actual fluid change operation.
Overview
Previous discussions seemed to talk a bunch about draining all the fluid out with the possibility of using compressed air, removing hoses, air in the system, risk of breakage, etc. I set out to minimize the work, yet get a clean fluid change. Basically, I just pushed the old fluid out with new fluid. The amount of air introduced in the system was very minimal. I did not disconnect ANY fittings or drain plugs.
Section 1: The tools
I purchased a RV water pump to do the work. My dealer had a FlowMax unit. I think it cost me about $70-80. Advantages over the Sureflo pump (that is in the official Alde tool) in stock at my local dealer, price and fittings were included. The dealer also mentioned that many customers replace their Sureflo units with the FlowMax. I got a 12Volt model since I would be powering the unit from inside our T@B. I mounted the pump to a chunk of plywood, added a switch and about 10-12-feet of wire to a 12-Volt “cigarette lighter” plug. Note, the fuse in our T@B to the power plug is 15 Amps and the pump draws 7, worst case.
I had 2 leftover hoses from a washing machine. I left one end on each hose and attached the other to the fittings supplied by the pump. I took one of the removed ends and attached it to ½” OD vinyl tubing. The vinyl tubing was about 8-feet long with nothing on the other end.
I created 2 adapters to attach within the Alde reservoir. I used 3/8” OD tubing, typically used to supply water to toilets. I wanted low restriction, ability to bend, yet have some strength. Standard toilet pipe was a good choice. On one end of each I put a right-angle fitting (3/8” tubing to ½” Female Pipe Thread) then another adapter to standard garden hose thread. One piece of tubing is straight. The other has about a 2-1/2” offset.
The other end of the tubing was a little more involved. I got 2 neoprene stoppers (purchased at Lowes). The diameter was 27/32” at the large end and 21/32” at the small end. The overall length was 1”. (I apologize that I don’t remember the part number. These dimensions I measured were from my assembled adapters, so there may be some stretching of the stopper as they are installed on the tubing) To make the holes in the stoppers, I first drilled a ¾” hole in a scrap of wood, then inserted the stopper in the wood. That would hold the stopper so I could then drill out the center of the stopper with a 5/16” drill. I used a brad-point or forstner drill bit to make a clean hole in the neoprene. I then stretched each stopper over the end of each of the tubes. The neoprene fits tight enough that no clamps or gluing was necessary. (I might have used water to help when slicing on.)
That’s it for the special tool creation. Pictures below:
I wanted a 12v DC power source to use outside under my awning next to the table. So, I made one, it involved a little drilling and some wiring. Now I can power my Ham Radio or any 12v accessories while sitting outside. Right now it’s powered by a 20Ah power station under the door side couch. I also put a port on the inside as well as a switch to turn off the outside ports. (It’s got a red led to remind me that I have it on.) I use lithium batteries and can plug a solar panel into the outside port to recharge it. But eventually when I switch my Tab over to lithium I’ll tie it all into my trailer DC power bus. I can patch it at anytime to the Trailer DC bus to either share the charge of my batteries or run the DC setup while I’m on shore power. I’ll share a couple pictures.its a Powerpole and 12v car accessories port.
its controlled by a lighted switch just inside the door.