I have the same trailer (2021 400 BD) and at one point had to retrieve the PUK number from the back side of my solar controller. The controller was behind the drawer like yours. I pulled the drawer out, backed out the controller’s mounting screws, then rotated the controller enough to allow me to take a picture of the back side where the label displaying the PUK was attached. The entire process from beginning to end took about an hour as I recall. It’s a mystery why Victron buried such an important piece of information like that.
If you simply dropped the battery in and connected it, you may need to disconnect the battery and solar and let the solar controller reset. Pull the fuse at the battery, and pull the fuse at the solar controller coming in from the solar panels.
The Victron controller has a very specific connection protocol.
This is the section of the Solar Controller Manual. (# 3 and 5 are not applicable).
With both the fuses for the Victron cables pulled: replace the fuse at the battery first. Have a look at the Victron and see if the battery is being recognized....then replace the solar controller fuse.
It is possible for the fuse on the bottom of the Victron to blow. It is supposed to be a "reverse polarity" fuse, but some owners have reported it blown for who knows what reason.
I really wish those were reversed. With the CS I feel like the could have been reversed, because there is fresh water consumers and grey water producers both at the front and the rear of the trailer - and I am generally more likely to try and carry around a load of fresh water for longer than I would gray. But on the plus side - with the cassette toilet, we actually use very little of the tanks.
@jalars8 also check that the ADLE 120VAC power cord is plugged in.
It is a known issue that the plug can vibrate out of the outlet while traveling.
120VAC outlet is on the Alde Compartment front wall.
Technically speaking, you would need a minimum wire size of 12 AWG to use a 20A breaker. The wire to my converter, and I assume yours is the same, is 14 AWG. 14 AWG wire is normally protected by a no larger than 15A breaker. Of course, the 20A breaker will "electrically" work on the 14 AWG wire; and many people have wired electric circuits in this manner. However, doing so can increase the risk of an electrical fire in a circuit overload condition.
@webers3 That phantom 11.3v was probably due to the tiny current which powers the “red fuse is blown” LED in the WFCO. The LED is usually shorted out by the fuse, but when that’s blown a trickle current runs through the light and then to the fridge or other load.
picking the one that fits snugly in the holes in your template. Take out the setscrew. Drill
through the drill stop to get an accurate pilot hole. Then open up
those pilot holes to the finished size.
Hmmm. That response doesn't make much sense. Batteries connected in parallel pretty quickly balance out to the same voltage. If one is higher voltage it quickly charges the lower voltage battery until they reach equilibrium. What you're seeing is the minor variations in the SOC (voltage) meters. I bet if you swapped the meters between the batteries, the percentage SOC would follow the meter, not stay with each battery.
Forgot to ask: Confirm you got an AGM battery not a LiFePo battery? As @pthomas745 mentioned the latter type turns off the output completely when the charge gets too low.