@acwilson, I APPLAUD you for taking "before" and "after" photos. This is a good habit for anyone taking a vehicle in for service regarding a suspected issue/source. It will likely pay off for you.
Do not inflate tires to max rate on side of tires .
Go to Goodyear endurance web site and there is an inflation chart for the size of tire and weight of the trailer . Use these rates to inflate the tires.
Thank you all for the replies. Very helpful. I will be sure to check the polarity of the SAE port.
I just pulled the trigger on a Zoupw 350 watt panel. It seemed like this was a good compromise between portability & capacity. It does not have a solar controller, so I plan to install a Victron MPPT near the battery disconnect switch and SAE port. It sounds worth the effort given that I also have a smart shunt, and will be able to monitor all solar charging & battery one place.
@Parlando, I use a Camco water fill tube and don't overdo the water pressure while filling the tank. It works well for me (similar to using a smaller hose, as suggested by @gulfarea.) I like that I can control the flow of water and also shut off the water completely at the fill end of the hose:
A common modification is to add an additional switch in series in that circuit to turn the gas valve off when the stove is not being used. The solenoid valve draws ~1 amp constantly while the hatch is open. When camping off grid, this is a significant draw especially if you keep the hatch open as part of living space.
All of the hoses in my glycol loop get VERY hot... far too hot to touch.
That would indicate everything is working correctly. Keep in mind that it takes much longer to heat the cabin with a radiant heating system compared to forced air heating. Plus the convectors around the benches are covered on the top when the bed is set up so the warm air can't rise as easily.