I really wish those were reversed. With the CS I feel like the could have been reversed, because there is fresh water consumers and grey water producers both at the front and the rear of the trailer - and I am generally more likely to try and carry around a load of fresh water for longer than I would gray. But on the plus side - with the cassette toilet, we actually use very little of the tanks.
@jalars8 also check that the ADLE 120VAC power cord is plugged in.
It is a known issue that the plug can vibrate out of the outlet while traveling.
120VAC outlet is on the Alde Compartment front wall.
Technically speaking, you would need a minimum wire size of 12 AWG to use a 20A breaker. The wire to my converter, and I assume yours is the same, is 14 AWG. 14 AWG wire is normally protected by a no larger than 15A breaker. Of course, the 20A breaker will "electrically" work on the 14 AWG wire; and many people have wired electric circuits in this manner. However, doing so can increase the risk of an electrical fire in a circuit overload condition.
@webers3 That phantom 11.3v was probably due to the tiny current which powers the “red fuse is blown” LED in the WFCO. The LED is usually shorted out by the fuse, but when that’s blown a trickle current runs through the light and then to the fridge or other load.
picking the one that fits snugly in the holes in your template. Take out the setscrew. Drill
through the drill stop to get an accurate pilot hole. Then open up
those pilot holes to the finished size.
Hmmm. That response doesn't make much sense. Batteries connected in parallel pretty quickly balance out to the same voltage. If one is higher voltage it quickly charges the lower voltage battery until they reach equilibrium. What you're seeing is the minor variations in the SOC (voltage) meters. I bet if you swapped the meters between the batteries, the percentage SOC would follow the meter, not stay with each battery.
Forgot to ask: Confirm you got an AGM battery not a LiFePo battery? As @pthomas745 mentioned the latter type turns off the output completely when the charge gets too low.
Do you have a voltmeter at hand? That would be the best tool to troubleshoot this.
Not to insult you, but one thing I can think of is that the battery is connected the wrong way around, this causes the reverse polarity fuse in the power center to blow. The solar charge controller will also not recognize the battery.
Basic troubleshooting: measure voltage between battery posts, measure voltage between battery switch and ground (e.g. the trailer frame, check reverse polarity fuse.