Best Of
Re: 310-watt Solar Panel from a 400 T@B on a 320
Well, that was not fun. A bloody knuckle and a few hours later and the old panel is off. The disappointing thing is that the hub is not centered on the old panel as expected. That means there's no way to use the existing hole through the roofs skin. I'll worry about that and cleaning the gunk off the roof tomorrow.
I was surprised to find out from its label that the old panel was 133W. The trailer was purchased used. I'm not sure why I thought it was a 100W panel. I don't remember ever seeing that much wattage coming from it on the app.
I was surprised to find out from its label that the old panel was 133W. The trailer was purchased used. I'm not sure why I thought it was a 100W panel. I don't remember ever seeing that much wattage coming from it on the app.
Re: Next Question
You were correct, the battery failed the test. It needs to be replaced. It’s a continental Marine/RV deep cycle battery. It charges up, it tests only half its cranking amps, and the internal resistance is high. It’s a sealed battery, I’m checking to see if it’s still under warranty. But I may take this opportunity to upgrade and follow advice in this thread.AnOldUR said:Sounds more like either your onboard battery is insufficient (low amp hour lead acid) or it's no longer working properly. A fully charged 100Ah LiFePO4 should easily get you through a night or two. The Alde on gas doesn't use a lot of electric. Of course this is assuming you're running a 12V compressor fridge, not a 3-way on 12V electric.TourDeForth said:... So now I’m shopping for a portable battery for the trailer ...
I would consider a battery upgrade before the purchase of a power station.
Re: Next mod, Added a separate 12v/15amp DC circuit to my trailer for outside use.
Nice. It will come in handy.
I put a weatherproof USB (A and C) port and a 12V SAE port to power a cooler outside. The USB port has a little spring cover that keeps them closed. It also has has a LED ring around it so you don't forget to turn it off inside. I use the switched USB port mostly to power my USB awning lights and charge/run my Bluetooth wireless speaker.
I put a weatherproof USB (A and C) port and a 12V SAE port to power a cooler outside. The USB port has a little spring cover that keeps them closed. It also has has a LED ring around it so you don't forget to turn it off inside. I use the switched USB port mostly to power my USB awning lights and charge/run my Bluetooth wireless speaker.
Re: Next mod, Added a separate 12v/15amp DC circuit to my trailer for outside use.
@SLJ That is nice! I plan to power my awning lights through there as well. I debated on the usb ports. After I drilled the holes I realized there is enough room to add another pair of ports and swap to a four hole panel in the future.
Re: Lifetime of the axle on a TAB 400 Boondock (2022)?
For the past two years I’ve raised it on jack stands during the winter. Not sure it helps but I’m sure over time those rubber cords will flex and fatigue.
It takes a good week for the cords to decompress once I put the camper on Jack stands. That tells me that their is some memory in the rubber and elevating it might help “reset” that memory a bit.
Our version of the 320S "permanent beds" solution....
We decided that a 27" width was going to be a good size for us and leave ample walking room in between. We already had 2" foam roll-up toppers and sheet setups in that size from some of our other "adventures".
I took out the sliding bed platforms altogether. I then moved the forward vertical wall out about 3-4 inches - about 2-3 inches shy of the 27 inch total width. This was possible without very much trouble on either side with the was the pieces were fastened. I then made new hinged tops that were 27" wide in total. I stained them black to match the cabinetry. Here is a photo of some of that work in progress (along with electrical mods going on):
On the drivers side, I have installed all of the electrical systems (Tow vehicle charger, rooftop solar charger, external suitcase charger, 2000W inverter, AC switching and fuses for 12V extras). I added a gas cylinder and an automatic light to come on when open. I replaced the WFCO box with a quiet muffin fan with temperature sensing to come on if it got too warm in there.....
On the other side, the additional room by moving the forward wall allowed for a nice shoe storage bin, with light of course
Finally we had new cushions made with high-end 4" foam and good fabric. I think it came out pretty good. We got rid of all the side cushions in favor of a small (easy storage when sleeping) deep back cushion for sitting on the now longer base seats. You can also see the fold-down mini drink tables we put on each side. Excuse the cardboard still protecting the floor from all my mistakes!!!
I took out the sliding bed platforms altogether. I then moved the forward vertical wall out about 3-4 inches - about 2-3 inches shy of the 27 inch total width. This was possible without very much trouble on either side with the was the pieces were fastened. I then made new hinged tops that were 27" wide in total. I stained them black to match the cabinetry. Here is a photo of some of that work in progress (along with electrical mods going on):
On the drivers side, I have installed all of the electrical systems (Tow vehicle charger, rooftop solar charger, external suitcase charger, 2000W inverter, AC switching and fuses for 12V extras). I added a gas cylinder and an automatic light to come on when open. I replaced the WFCO box with a quiet muffin fan with temperature sensing to come on if it got too warm in there.....
On the other side, the additional room by moving the forward wall allowed for a nice shoe storage bin, with light of course
Finally we had new cushions made with high-end 4" foam and good fabric. I think it came out pretty good. We got rid of all the side cushions in favor of a small (easy storage when sleeping) deep back cushion for sitting on the now longer base seats. You can also see the fold-down mini drink tables we put on each side. Excuse the cardboard still protecting the floor from all my mistakes!!!
Re: Do you have a name for your trailer?
We just picked up our new to us 2018 T@B 400. It is replacing our vintage 1960 Cree which was felled by a tree in its storage unit. That trailer was named after my great-aunt, Auntie M. After that, I decided I wouldn't name another trailer since it really felt like a family member died. Well, that didn't last long!! Our silver T@B with red and black trim is called "Ladybug", even by my husband, bless his heart!
Re: Next Question
@MuttonChops makes a great point. When we first got the camper I thought we needed an external solar panel “just in case”…but as we camped I realized it would’ve been a waste of money. And now that we’ve upgraded to 200ah of lithium I really don’t see the need for portable power packs, external panels, etc.
I liken this to moving into a new home. The impulse is to furnish it right away but you need to use and live in it for months before you have an idea of your needs.
I liken this to moving into a new home. The impulse is to furnish it right away but you need to use and live in it for months before you have an idea of your needs.
Re: 2023 boondock tires
@ColleenD2, to answer your question (I just saw your question), the Goodyear Endurance tires are working out great!
Next mod, Added a separate 12v/15amp DC circuit to my trailer for outside use.
I wanted a 12v DC power source to use outside under my awning next to the table. So, I made one, it involved a little drilling and some wiring. Now I can power my Ham Radio or any 12v accessories while sitting outside. Right now it’s powered by a 20Ah power station under the door side couch. I also put a port on the inside as well as a switch to turn off the outside ports. (It’s got a red led to remind me that I have it on.) I use lithium batteries and can plug a solar panel into the outside port to recharge it. But eventually when I switch my Tab over to lithium I’ll tie it all into my trailer DC power bus. I can patch it at anytime to the Trailer DC bus to either share the charge of my batteries or run the DC setup while I’m on shore power. I’ll share a couple pictures.
its a Powerpole and 12v car accessories port.
its controlled by a lighted switch just inside the door.