@ReenieG, I would recommend adding a full trailer cover to your plan. Get a good one that includes both UV and weather protection. Also, be sure to leave the roof vent open slightly as well as opening the front window and driver's side windows to the first "locked-open" setting. I say the "driver's side" window, because it is a good idea to keep the passenger side window locked so a thief can't simply forcibly pull the slightly open window and reach in to unlock the trailer door. I hope it all works out for you and this issue does not reoccur. Too expensive!
Dream Lighting 12Volt LED Panel Light with Switch - 5" White Shell Ceiling Downlight - Warm White Panel Downlight for Kitchen, Roof, Cabinet and Cabin
https://www.amazon.com/Dream-Lighting-12Volt-Panel-Switch/dp/B00ODVEWPG/?th=1
select: Color: 5inch, Dimmer Switch, Warm White Light
There is little slack in the Nucamp wires. Pull the fuse, cut the crimp splices near the middle and pare back to conserve wire length.
Crimp on INSULATED spade terminals to trailer side and to new light. Coil up slack inside the cutout in the 1/8" hardboard liner.
Very gently hand tighten the #2 square drive screws into the hardboard.
Nucamp did not vapor seal the bath light, permitting shower vapor to penetrate the headliner.
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mfgr. info:
Manufacturer Jerrylight Pty Ltd
Brand Dream lighting
Item Weight 3.88 ounces
Product Dimensions 5 x 0.8 x 5 inches
Country of Origin China
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer No
Manufacturer Part Number 0016937W-milky lens
Bulb Type LED
Special Features Low power consumption to save energy, Shock and vibration resistant, Dimmable, 12volt DC for vehicles
Mirror Lighting Type LED
Amperage 0.3 Amps
Voltage 12 Volts
Wattage 4.7 watts
I applied light blocking film on the outside of my stargazer window. I find the heat and light coming in that back window is way too much.
deepsea5 said:For the life of me, I cannot understand why NuCamp makes that large window a standard install on the Tab 360 and 400. Not everyone wants a large window over their bed. This should be optional, for those that do want it.
I may end up there, but I'm going to play with the 3 way a little more first. I am retired and like a challenge to keep me thinking anyway.Denny16 said:@grassgd, I think the best option is to upgrade to a 100AH lithium battery, which your existing 120-watt solar should keep up with. Then (this ismrhe hardest part), part ways with the 3-way fridge, and install the new AC/DC Isotherm Cruise compressor fridge, nüCamp is currently using in the TaB320. The 100AH lithium will power this fridge quite easily, and your existing solar setup should be able to makeup the draw from the fridge’s overnight draw. Then you can get some sleep, knowing your food is safe.
Cheers
Thanks for this. The camper is pretty much brand spankin' new—a 2025 bought a couple of months ago. The VE.Bus isn't a dongle, but a hardwired unit. No sign of water or anything like that that. And I'm going to assume that NuCamp installed everything with the correct wiring sizes...AnOldUR said:My guess would be a voltage drop from the VE.Bus Smart Dongle. Could be wire size or a bad connection somewhere. I had a situation where water got into an inline fuse holder. It resulted in corrosion causing a lower voltage reading. I'd suggest checking all the connections before digging deeper into a cause.