Best Of
Re: Victron SmartShunt
Okay thanks. I was trying to deal w the water / weather issue but I see I’ll need to mount it up by the battery. I’ll figure out how to protect it from water. Thanks for the added info.
Right now I’m strategizing on how to get those 10ga wires cleanly into those tiny holes in the 100/20! Ha! Nothing is ever easy in DIY Land!
SELLING...BUYING...Here are some tips to communicate.
Please do not post using the large Activity box on your profile page without a recipient. It lands on the group “wall” and few ever see your message. Hate to see anyone disappointed when their requests are ignored. Start a New Discussion or send a private message: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/qx/39e3hnqc09kc.pdf
Buyers: pay attention to the seller’s requested contact method. Some sellers often list their TaBs at multiple websites and frequently do not monitor your posts to their sale ad. If they list an email/cell #, don’t waste your time posting to their thread - email or call them.
Sellers: take the time to set up your Notification Preferences (buyers should do this, too). If you don't regularly visit the forum to check on your private messages, you'll never know if someone has replied. This is easily corrected in the notification settings, you can get an email when someone replies to your private message or comments you have made. If you don’t know how to locate the Notification Preferences, contact a moderator and we are happy to help or check out these guidelines: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9412/how-to-navigate-the-t-b-forum-essential-for-new-members#latest.
Buyers: pay attention to the seller’s requested contact method. Some sellers often list their TaBs at multiple websites and frequently do not monitor your posts to their sale ad. If they list an email/cell #, don’t waste your time posting to their thread - email or call them.
Sellers: take the time to set up your Notification Preferences (buyers should do this, too). If you don't regularly visit the forum to check on your private messages, you'll never know if someone has replied. This is easily corrected in the notification settings, you can get an email when someone replies to your private message or comments you have made. If you don’t know how to locate the Notification Preferences, contact a moderator and we are happy to help or check out these guidelines: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9412/how-to-navigate-the-t-b-forum-essential-for-new-members#latest.
Also, please be considerate and return to indicate your TaB or accessory is sold.
Re: Tail light glows when 7-pin is wet
Hmmmm.....ChatGPT trumps 45 years of industry experience including directly with Molex, Amp, T&B , Amphenol etc. engineering. Never saw that coming.donmontalvo said:I had issues with my 7 pin connector, turned out the pins were corroded and loose.tabiphile said:...[snip]...dielectric grease should never be used on contacts...[snip]...
I used a brass brush to scrub the pins, tightened them, then applied dielectric grease (yes even on the connectors).
From that point forward, the 7 pin connection has been 100% reliable.
IMO dielectric grease won't interfere with a 7 pin connection, unless the pins are corroded/loose.
Your problem was corrected by removing the corrosion and tightening up the connector. By design, connectors need an interference contact to work properly. Putting dielectric grease into the contacts did not correct the problem, although with an already damaged one, it may be preventing reoccurrence, currently (intentional) your connector is holding on with its nails and will fail again. The ChatGPT summary does correctly conclude that the grease should "not be used to conduct, only around the connection points."
Re: Yellow Flapper Valve(YFV) alternatives for Tab 400.
Since I have a 3" mattress topper over the factory cushions, I decided to cut an access panel above the drain valves. I centered the cut between the Froli bed supports. I do have to crawl under the factory cushions to get to the access panel, but I do not have to tear down the bed or remove the full plywood panel.
Re: 360 CS AC
My 360 Saphir manual says 7000 BTU cooling. Mine has 3 duct tubes that feed 5 vents, I think. Probably only going to cool down inside 15 to 20 degrees.
Re: 360 CS AC
I've seen a couple threads on the Facebook 360 page with people expressing concerns about cooling. Here's a quote from one of them-- "Is anyone else having problems with cooling in temperatures above 80, l am in the Panhandle of Florida can't the inside the below 80 until night time."
As someone who lives in a hot humid area (and camps in that weather too), I'd be very apprehensive about buying the 360 until there was confirmation about cooling capabilities. I think this camper was rushed to market, and I wonder if any testing was done in hot climates. This wouldn't be the first time Nucamp released a camper and had to later change to a more capable cooling system (can't remember the year(s)-- but the 400 and the Air8 had some major issues).
It might be worth your time to check out the nuCamp TAB 360 page on Facebook. There are also some posts about missing shades/blinds on the windows and other issues.
As someone who lives in a hot humid area (and camps in that weather too), I'd be very apprehensive about buying the 360 until there was confirmation about cooling capabilities. I think this camper was rushed to market, and I wonder if any testing was done in hot climates. This wouldn't be the first time Nucamp released a camper and had to later change to a more capable cooling system (can't remember the year(s)-- but the 400 and the Air8 had some major issues).
It might be worth your time to check out the nuCamp TAB 360 page on Facebook. There are also some posts about missing shades/blinds on the windows and other issues.
Re: Filling Alde Water Tank ( after sanitizing/ De- Winterizing Process)
Basil48192 said:
. . . assume there is some type of thermal switch to prevent the water heating elements from turning on if no water is present.
Not correct.
The Alde Heating Elements (electric or gas) only contact the Glycol 'cabin heat' liquid.
Water, if present, is heated by Heat Transfer from the Glycol.
The Alde Heating Elements (electric or gas) only contact the Glycol 'cabin heat' liquid.
Water, if present, is heated by Heat Transfer from the Glycol.
Re: 2018 T@B 320 Reading light switch
HaHa 
I was just searching for repair comments on the 2018 model year Reading Lights.
Mine was working but the rocker switch would move around and did not feel 'right'. Was happening on the Passenger Side Lamp - - - the one I use hundreds of times - - -
If your failure is similar, light works but switch is being difficult, my fix might work for you.
On removing the lamp fixture from the wall (tiny square driver needed).
I found the plastic wing springs (my name for them) no longer had the 'spring' to hold the switch in place.
The switch is held in position by the Wing Springs pushing against the lamp housing and
holding the switch tight against the cabinet wall.
My fix was to add a soft material spacer between the switch body and the wall.
I used thicker double sided tape, ~3/32 in thick and 1/2 in wide, but only
glued/taped on the switch housing.
I forgot to take pictures, so here is a simple drawing
As for fully replacing the Switch . . . I've not found the wing spring style on-line and did not investigate what type/brand snap-in style housing might work as a replacement.
I was just searching for repair comments on the 2018 model year Reading Lights.Mine was working but the rocker switch would move around and did not feel 'right'. Was happening on the Passenger Side Lamp - - - the one I use hundreds of times - - -
If your failure is similar, light works but switch is being difficult, my fix might work for you.
On removing the lamp fixture from the wall (tiny square driver needed).
I found the plastic wing springs (my name for them) no longer had the 'spring' to hold the switch in place.
The switch is held in position by the Wing Springs pushing against the lamp housing and
holding the switch tight against the cabinet wall.
My fix was to add a soft material spacer between the switch body and the wall.
I used thicker double sided tape, ~3/32 in thick and 1/2 in wide, but only
glued/taped on the switch housing.
I forgot to take pictures, so here is a simple drawing
As for fully replacing the Switch . . . I've not found the wing spring style on-line and did not investigate what type/brand snap-in style housing might work as a replacement.
Re: 12 volt fridge
After 6 years, I could keep posting images - but these should make the point. Brought to you by a NoCold 180.3, that is adjusted every so often, and 95 watts of solar in: California, Colorado and Texas. If these refrigerators didn't work I could not have done this. The 3-ways are not perfect, all of the available RV refrigerators have advantages and disadvantages. These images show what can be accomplished with my set-up. Boondocking with a 3-way:
Re: 12 volt fridge
We're down here in North Texas where it gets hot and we have a 3-way. It's not a problem on the 1st day of travel after precooling it the day before. But if it's a series of stops to get to a destination (like a rally) it is really problematic for us. Works great once we're set up in camp and either connected to shore power or on propane. The problem for us is in transit. That 1st day out is fine since it has been precooled, but after that we just can't seem to trust it. We ended up bringing a small ICECO GO 20 compressor fridge for food safety. It's been trouble free for 5 yrs now and I can monitor it from my phone. We also bring a small cooler just for ice for drinks. The 3-way just becomes a place to store drinks and things that aren't temp sensitive in transit for us unless we are setting up for multiple days and then we'll transfer some things to our 3-way once we're set up and it's cooled down. That whole process is tiresome. Seriously thinking of taking the 3-way out and installing the GO 20 in it's place or maybe even getting a slightly bigger model like some on here have done. We went to a 100ah lithium battery and have two 120w portable solar panels as well as a solar battery last year so think would work well when boondocking although most of the time we camp with hookups. The 12v ones just seem so much less trouble. As many have said, set it and forget it. Found that is not the case with our 3-way at all.
