2019 TAB 400 Battery Access

ezusmanis

I want to install a battery voltage/temp sensor unto my batteries but cannot find a straight forward way to get into the battery box. It looks like you need to remove the perimeter screws on the cover and then disconnect the wires running into the cover. 

Am I missing something? I’ve seriously considered cutting some holes in the top of the cover!

falcon1970

You are correct in that the battery cover is tricky to remove.  It is somewhat tedious but fairly straightforward.  Remove the perimeter screws (and there WILL be at least one that you overlooked), disconnect the air vent ducting located on the passenger side of the battery cover ,then unscrew the housing of the cable clamps that keep the positive and negative battery cables stationary.  The rubber (ish) battery box can then be lifted away from around the battery and slid along the positive and negative cables to get it out of the way.  There is room through the cable clamps to run the wires for the battery monitor and temperature sensor.  There will be enough room to move the battery box so you won't have to disconnect the cables from the battery--which you can't get to until you remove the battery box anyway!
The problem with cutting hole in the top cover is that you will have to cut a big hole in order to be able to connect your sensor to the battery post.  I am pretty sure you won't get the holes in the right place and you will end up with a bigger hole.  In any case, cutting a hole in the battery box negates the reason the battery is in a sealed box in the first place.

Petroffski

In my battery monitor install I removed the center and starboard side bed platform as well as the diagonal inverter switch/outlet panel at the foot of the bed. This made the install much easier. It was also where I drilled a hole for the monitor. I didn't bother drilling any holes for the temp sensor wire. I just ran it under the cover where there was a gap. I'm thinking the self adhesive foam on the bottom of the battery cover would give you enough space for the wire as well. If you're squeamish about drilling holes (for good reason) you could file a notch in the lower edge of the box to run the wire and install more foam to seal. 

One mod I did make was to solder the factory battery cables to the end fittings. They were tight enough to not pull out but just seemed loose for an electrical junction. I bought a 2AWG custom cable from BatteryCablesUSA.com for $10+$4 shipping to get to the shunt. This is a full blown marine cable. Very impressive price for very impressive quality. You'd have no problem with a 4AWG either. It's a personality defect of mine. 21" would have worked just as well.
https://www.batterycablesusa.com/2-gauge-battery-cables-2-awg.html
S2BK-24IN-38 2 Gauge AWG Extreme Battery Cable with Ends
Color: Black
Length (hole center to hole center): 24 inch
Cable Ends Options: 3/8 lug both ends

I've attached some pics of the install. The extra wires are for another solar controller for a portable panel that can access both sides of the trailer. We camp in the trees a lot at the extra 100W helps a lot.

It was a fun project except for working at floor level. Knees you know...

Petroffski

I forgot to say that you really only have to disconnect the outer negative cables. I found I could do what I needed with the battery cover box still connected to the batteries.