Does SMEV cooktop have igniter and other questions

T@Buhura

Now that I've gotten it back from the local dealer for a faulty converter I'm getting to test each system. The good news is they installed a new 25A converter - from reading other comments (I think on the Yahoo group) I was worried they might put in the 12A so I'm pleased yet was surprised by the unexpected higher cost than originally quoted. The battery was also bad and in hindsight may have been original although it never occurred to me to check before trading it in for a new one.

Cooktop: Does the cooktop have an integrated ignitor like gas kitchen ranges? When I turn the dials I hear what sounds like gas flow but I can't seem get the clicking sound of an ignitor when I first turn the knob(s). I notice the knob(s) can be depressed as well, however, nothing in particular happens when I do push them down. Something I have noticed is that while I hear what sounds like gas flowing when I turn the knobs - I don't smell propane like I would on our gas grill. Now this seems like a silly question, is it possible the propane has gone bad (moisture etc)? The reason I ask, is as I'm going through our T@B I'm discovering that it's been like a time capsule. It seems probable that the propane in the tank may be nearly 10yrs old. Just about everything in it is in like new condition. The propane tank itself is original (dates to around the manufacture date) and based on the original owner and his son in law, they only used the lighting and nothing else. They've not cooked in it, the fridge has all of the original new hang tags and stickers in place, and as I inspected the tires last night, I noticed they are also original with 2905 as the manufacture date (29th week of 2005) and they look like they've had very little wear. The T@B's manufacture date is in Oct 2005.

Tires: Related to the tires... being nearly 10yrs old, yet having 10/32" tread depth (that's practically new tire tread!), would you keep them or replace them? They have no visible cracks, unusual wear or damage. And replace with what? They're the 205/55x16 passenger car type the old Thor/Dutchmen shipped on their T@Bs. I had thought of putting new Pirelli P7 which come in that size and my rationale is they come in XL load rating plus being Pirellis they offer stiffer sidewalls (are least more responsive in car applications due to less flex than a standard touring tire). I'm still surprised they're of the same vintage as the rest of the trailer and yet have practically no signs of wear. The spare under the T@B even has the new tire label on the tread still! It's a little weathered but legible still! I was blown away by that too!

Refrigerator: It's a 3way Norcold unit. How do I trouble shoot/test that adequately? It's still cold outside at night and hard to tell if it's functioning or cold by thermal transfer from the cold outside. When I put it in 12v mode I hear the fan on the new converter blowing as soon as I turn the fridge to 12v which seems to imply it's drawing current. I left it on overnight, although in 120v mode with shoreline plugged into an outlet in the garage. When I go check on it, a cold fridge might not be enough to convince me, is there another method to test/verify? I may put some warm beers in it during the day to see if they cool by night. How cold should I expect the unit to cool food/beverages when on 5 for the cold setting?

Furnace: Is the furnace exclusively propane with an electric blower or is it possible for it to put out resistive heat? The reason I ask is when I got home with it from the dealer yesterday evening, I could detect the faint smell of electric heat (you know the smell of a heating element that's not been used all summer and accumulated dust that's burned off during the first few uses) and the propane tank valve was shut. I see the thermostat on the front cabinet and there is a switch on top that has very little movement with a distinct click/snap feel when moved from left to right. Is there a temp control on the thermostat? How do I turn on the furnace?

I'll post pictures later.

ChanW

The stove doesn't have an igniter. You need to press and turn the knob to get the gas to flow, and you can release it once the safety thermocouple is warm (after a second or two). Gas flow stops with no flame.

Fridge likes to be level. 12v is really limited to while you're towing, because it uses so much battery. The fins inside should be pretty cold to touch after an overnight of it being on. People will often pre-cool the fridge for 24 hours before using it for a trip, and then only put cold things in there.

T@Buhura

I've confirmed the fridge definitely works on 12v with the tall tale of condensation forming inside the fridge with just an hour's worth of being on in 12v mode. I switched it to 120v for the day to see if it keeps.

Does the fridge's propane starter require 12v or 120v? I'm thinking 12v as that would make most sense for the likely use/need (when 120v isn't available at camp). Tonight I'll try the propane again.

ChanW said:

The stove doesn't have an igniter. You need to press and turn the knob to get the gas to flow, and you can release it once the safety thermocouple is warm (after a second or two). Gas flow stops with no flame.

Fridge likes to be level. 12v is really limited to while you're towing, because it uses so much battery. The fins inside should be pretty cold to touch after an overnight of it being on. People will often pre-cool the fridge for 24 hours before using it for a trip, and then only put cold things in there.

Thanks so much Chan! Am I understanding correctly that I have to hold the knob down until a flame starts? Does the stove use a glow element to light a flame? Not seeing a spark/igniter I tried a match next to the element and no flame then either which led me to ask the improbable question "could the 75% full propane tank have bad propane"

JandJ92010

T@buhura, When lighting the stove burners, it may be necessary to hold your lighter next to the burner for awhile to let the air bleed out of the gas line until the gas arrives at the burner. I really don't think that propane goes bad in the tank, I've never seen it.

wizard1880

Replace those tires! After 6 years the risk of blowout rises significantly, and most tire manufacturers recommend replacement. Even more so for trailers because the tires have less use and chance for the tire's protective oils to come out.

Mercator

JandJ92010 said:

T@buhura, When lighting the stove burners, it may be necessary to hold your lighter next to the burner for awhile to let the air bleed out of the gas line until the gas arrives at the burner. I really don't think that propane goes bad in the tank, I've never seen it.

I have also found that lighting the stove (as JandJ outlined) before trying to use the propane on the Norcold helps bleed the air out of the propane lines and the fridge will light more easily. 

TABaker

What year T@B?  I have a 2007, and have an igniter.  This is what I have.  You have to push in the knobs while pushing in the igniter.  All Dutchmen T@B owners agree to replace tires at 5 years of age, showing wear or not.
Are you sure you have a propane furnace?  The Cool Cat is also a heat pump, and many did not have a LP furnace.  I have both.  The thermostat will say both if you have them.  

ChanW

Yes T@Buhura, you need to hold the knob down for the gas to flow, and hold a match to the burner. Once the burner lights, and stays lit for a few seconds, you can release the knob, and turn it to the temp you want it.

OTOH, if you have a separate igniter button, like TABaker says, it's another story, that I don't know about!

T@Buhura

Hi TABaker - Thanks so much for your feedback! We have a 2006 T16.

More tire/wheel questions: I've read the Thor T@B manual concerning wheels and spare in particular. It seems there is a second set of lug bolts for the spare than for the normal drive wheels. Does anyone know where the spare set of lug bolts would be? Are they tucked under with the spare underneath the T@B? Has anyone changed the spare wheel to be a an alloy wheel vs. steel rim to keep the same lug bolts or even to have a matching 3rd 205/55x16 tire?

TABaker said:

What year T@B?  I have a 2007, and have an igniter.  This is what I have.  You have to push in the knobs while pushing in the igniter.  All Dutchmen T@B owners agree to replace tires at 5 years of age, showing wear or not.
Are you sure you have a propane furnace?  The Cool Cat is also a heat pump, and many did not have a LP furnace.  I have both.  The thermostat will say both if you have them.  

mash2

Replaced tires immediately on '06.
I have an '06 and my stove is different than TABaker's.  I don't have plastic cover.  (needed to build a cover for it.).  Mine doesn't have integrated igniter.  I have to move the gas to light, and then use match to light stove.  
I think the heater is atwood style.   It is propane only.  The switch works by moving that switch on top to the left to turn on and to the right to turn off.  There should be a slider along bottom of the thermostat.  This controls amount of heat.  There is a thermometer in the upper portion (that is pretty useless on mine).  I turn on the heater and adjust the bottom slider to get more heat.  I have shifted the slider to a comfortable heat level and generally leave it in the same location....

No help on refrig because I have a two way.

leenscottfl

My 2015 stove doesn't self start either. One of the burners is tricky to start. Have to push knob in much longer than I should.  Have to turn gas down low or flame will blow out when knob is released.

bgualtieri

Our 2015 Tabitha doesn't self ignite either.  Light the gas with a lighter or match and hold the knob in for at least a slow count of 10.  Not as long if it is already "warm"

ChanW

TABuhura, regarding the fridge on propane, have you found the various discussions in this group, or in the Yahoo group, about how to light it?

Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's not. .... No consensus on it, it seems.

There is a procedure though, and it should be on a sticker on the fridge.