DC to DC charger - 2019 320s

RetireeBC

I'm considering a 100 amp lithium upgrade with a DC to DC Victron charger and have read several posts on the topic.  I haven't seen a discussion on how to install the DC to DC charger and would appreciate input from others familiar with the Tab 320s (plastic tub). The lithium I'm considering has a Group 24 footprint (fitting in the existing battery space) and I would like to install the Victron charge controller in the Tub. Space is an issue as is accommodating the heat produced by the charger. 

Ron

I have Redarc 12v to 12v charger in my aluminum tub.  It does not seem to make much heat as it is only changing the current by a couple of volts.  I can run my refer on 12v and arrive at campsite with a nearly full battery.  I just replaced the Norcold with an Isotherm two way that will require much less current while driving.

RetireeBC

Hi Ron.  Thanks for the information.  Can you tell me if your charger is wired into the trailer before before the black junction box under the trailer or if it is wired inline after the battery cutoff switch?  

dragonsdofly

@RetireeBC, @Ron has a 2016 t@b, the equivalent of a 320 S. To my knowledge most of the 2016 models did not have a battery cut off switch. The 2017's were the first model year to have that as standard, but, I've heard that a few of the last 2016's may have had a factory supplied battery cut-off switch. Ron may have wired one in as an owner, but his placement may be "creative". Some earlier model t@bs have had the owners wire in cut-off switches inside their trailer and some have put the switch under the bench seat. Others put the switch where they detrtmined it would be most convenient for them. So your question may not produce an indicative answer. Good luck. -Denise

Ron

I started off with the plastic tub that had a battery disconnect.  I added the 12v-12v charger in the Outback Tub.  I also ran heavy wires from the battery in my Jeep to an Anderson connector below the bumper.  The heavy wires continue to the 12-12 volt charger then to the battery terminals.  I left the small wire from the 7 pin trailer plug connected.  I figured that it has too much resistance to back feed the Jeep. Seems to be working well.  An easy fix for the small 12v wire would be to pull the fuse in the Jeep if I see anything abnormal. 

Ron

I also switched the factory battery to two 6 volt golf cart batteries.  When not plugged in I use solar to run the T@B and a 12 volt Dometic cooler in the Jeep.

RetireeBC

Thanks so much for the information. 

Cheers

Mouseketab

Ron said:

I started off with the plastic tub that had a battery disconnect.  I added the 12v-12v charger in the Outback Tub.  I also ran heavy wires from the battery in my Jeep to an Anderson connector below the bumper.  The heavy wires continue to the 12-12 volt charger then to the battery terminals.  I left the small wire from the 7 pin trailer plug connected.  I figured that it has too much resistance to back feed the Jeep. Seems to be working well.  An easy fix for the small 12v wire would be to pull the fuse in the Jeep if I see anything abnormal. 

So instead of integrating it with the 7-pin, you just ran the wire from you tow vehicle battery and a separate connector? Do you have links to the specific connector and 12v-12v charger? (I'm getting a new fancy truck later this year, and will lose my reliable non-smart charging from the old truck)

Ron

I used a BCDC1240D 40 amp charger from Redarc.  From Amazon I bought #4 welding cable, Anderson Connector with black end plug, and two 40 amp fused holders.  I used more expensive welding cable because it is easier to use.  You could probably size all this down to 20-25 amps and still be ok.  The seven pin hot lead is usually 20 amp, but is meant for a few lights and charging a break away battery.  I know that it does not do a good job of charging the deep cycle battery in my dump trailer.  I have to plug the trailer into 120 volt after much use.  The circuit is from the tow vehicle to a 40 amp fuse through the Anderson connector below the rear bumper.  Then to a 40 amp fuse into the Redarc connected directly to the battery terminals.  Batteries are two six volt Trojan golf cart style.  I hope this helps.  You can also feed solar panels through this regulator while at camp, or panels installed on the trailer.  My next trip will be with a 12 volt Isotherm, rather than the Norcold which draws a lot on 12 volt.  It was the Norcold that started this modification. 

HikerTravelers

@Ron Did you run the negative from the starter battery or a chassis ground at the rear? So you used the mid sized 175AH Anderson plugs?  

Ron

I ran both positive and negative wires from the battery on tow vehicle to the plug below the bumper. Same for trailer end. I fused the battery positive at both ends. One for the trailer battery and one for the Jeep battery.