T@b security: what do you do?

vito

When I picked up my new T@b two weeks ago, the dealer technician urged me to buy a lock for the tongue of the trailer (I may not have the terminology right, but I am talking about the piece that goes over and clamps down on the ball of the hitch). It made sense to lock that part down so that when parked or stored someone else with a hitch and 2" ball could not just drive up and tow the T@b away. When I mentioned getting a wheel lock he said he never heard about anyone doing that (this was at a very large RV dealer and I did not see a single wheel lock in the store). But he also did not mention specifically getting a locking pin for the hitch on my TV. It has since occurred to me that when hitched up, without a locking hitch pin someone could easily remove the non-locking pin, slide the hitch off my TV and attach it to his vehicle and off he goes with my T@b. My wife thinks I am paranoid but I think I will buy a locking hitch pin (not sure which one I need, the 1/2 inch or 5/8's inch size) and possibly a wheel lock as well in addition to the locking pin I already have on the tongue. I notice that the compartment with the battery and the propane tank closes but cannot be locked is also vulnerable to theft, but I guess installing a lock on that compartment would be going a bit overboard. What do you do to secure your T@b?

Cyclonic

When towing I have a locking pin and also a pad dock on the release lever.

When in storage I have a ball lock, pad lock, and drop the stabilizers, as that makes it just that much more difficult.

Someone that is determined and prepared can still get it, there is nothing that will really stop someone with a cordless angle grinder, but it will keep the casual thieves looking for another target.

jkjenn

This is a very well discussed topic. See these threads (although there are more):
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/14057/#Comment_14057http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/15588/#Comment_15588http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/15113/#Comment_15113http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/13922/#Comment_13922

Nomad

T@B Hitch Lock - I just use the hitch pin, nothing else on the hitch - It's a locking hitch pin, slides through the holes on the handle/latch and locks. You can use it while hooked on so your hitch can't come unhitched while traveling - even though the T@B type hitch would have a harder time becoming unhitched than other styles.

TV Locking Hitch Pin - I have one but have never used it.

Wheel Lock - Have one and use it when I'm boondocking or there's only a few people in the campgrounds. - Generally, campground people are fairly observant and see what TV/people belong to which camper - especially T@Bs because they're so unique.

In general, if they really want it, they can get it - all these just slow them down and discourage them.

There have been a couple other threads on here about security so you might do a search for "security" but those above are the most common methods.

Nomad

Oh, and welcome, always like to see new T@B owners here - Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Nomad

I had my dealer get it - They have wholesale RV catalogs.

source3

This --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFqr3_frh3Q

And:

• I have an anti-rattle receiver pin that bolts in.  More time consuming to remove.  Have to unthread the locking nut, then unthread the anti-rattle bolt.  Came with my ISI Bicycle carrier.
• Tire lock/boot
• Coupler lock. 
  

Dalehelman

Bought our wheel lock on Amazon $55 including shipping. About half the price of the RV stores.

Nomad

source3 - What's an anti-rattle receiver pin?

dalehelman - I didn't pay any more than that through my T@B dealer but I had him put together an accessory package including the locks, leveling blocks, etc. so I didn't have to mess with going and getting any of that ... one-stop shopping.

source3

PXLated said:

source3 - What's an anti-rattle receiver pin?

The anti-rattle pin prevents the receiver ball mount from moving around in the receiver hitch.  I hate that clunking noise when going over bumps in the road.  The T@B puts more up and down force on the ball mount than the bike rack (obviously) so I inserted metal strapping as a shim as a temporary fix.  Will eventually weld some metal on top and bottom of ball mount to reduce the up and down movement as a permanent fix.

You can see the anti-rattle pin here: http://www.isi-carriers.com/guides/hitch-stablizer/stabilizer_guide.jpg

I bought a locking anti-rattle pin but it failed the second time I used it.  The locking nut did not want to tighten and the internal nut jammed.  I even used a torque wrench and tightened to specs.  Had to get the grinder and cut it out.  Only took a few minutes with a grinder using two cuts. 

Bought this, cut it out of hitch, and returned it in pieces.  Got my money back.
http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Lets-Go-Aero/63232.html

Here is a different model that may work: http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Softride/SR25219.html

jkjenn

I bought one of these from Amazon and it snugged up the somewhat sloppy connection between the hitch and the receiver. It really cut down on the noise and movement.

Nomad

You just need to get a little older and you won't need that stuff - you'll be too deaf to notice.

source3

PXLated said:

You just need to get a little older and you won't need that stuff - you'll be too deaf to notice.

I am partially deaf in one ear thanks to getting hit with Meniere's Disease last year.  Thanks for the encouragement though!

Jeez, another derailed thread

Nomad

I have trouble with certain frequencies - higher pitches. So, the hitch squeek I hear on occasion but not on a regular basis. Thank goodness only my hearing has been affected by age.

jkjenn

Although, my Shih Tzu knows if there is something outside long before I do. #fourleggedsecurityalarm

Nomad

Derailed thread - Sorry bout that - It's so easy to do :-(

gilbutler

Jenn, I bought something quite similar.  It does a great job of getting rid of the "clunks." It was more than worth it to me.

vito

To jkken: where does the thing you bought attach? Its not quite clear from the picture provided. Thanks. And I assume that after putting this on you don't ever remove the hitch from your TV, is that correct?

source3

I also considered installing a SPOT (http://findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=128) and hard wiring it to 12v DC.  Decided with trailer insurance it was not worth the extra cost.  $120 for the device + $100/yr service subscription it was not worth the money - again, insurance will cover any loss.

I was also thinking hooking up an old cell phone and track the cell phone with apps.  Then the cost to activate the cell phone --> insurance still cheaper.

ChanW

The latch on the battery box has a standard size hole, and can be replaced with a locking latch. I think I've seen people found it at True-Value hardware stores, or maybe it was Ace.

I mail-ordered it from Amazon, but I can't recommend (the quality of) this one: Fort Lock Cam Lock MFW23038 (the key is a little 'sticky').

jkjenn

You battery box did not have a lock when you bought the T@b?

Nomad

Jenn - They got rid of the lock on 2015s after yours - Mine doesn't have one either.

ChanW

My "early 2014" didn't have one.

Nomad

Ahhh, got rid of it that early.

Mouseketab

I lock my drawbar and ball to the truck with a receiver lock. The Dutchman frame has a little cylinder lock that I use. At a campground, I use a "Gorilla Guard" lock on the tongue, put the stabilizers down, and say hello to my neighbors, so that they know who is "supposed" to be there.

When I'm not towing, I also use the same receiver lock to lock my Auburn or Mickey Mouse hitch plug on. Folks love to steal those things.

Rad

So far nothing in the campgrounds, that may change.  At home my rig parks in the driveway with 2 cars in front of it at night.  They would have to steal the two cars first before they could get to the T@B.

shorthillssummit

I was told I needed a class 3 receiver lock..I thought that was enough info..well, just got it and it's too big-it's 5/8"..I think I need a 1/2 " but not so sure ..Please advise TIA!

Dalehelman

shorthillssummit said:

I was told I needed a class 3 receiver lock..I thought that was enough info..well, just got it and it's too big-it's 5/8"..I think I need a 1/2 " but not so sure ..Please advise TIA!

Do you have a 2" receiver or 1 1/2". The 2" generally uses a 5/8" pin the 1 1/2" uses a 1/2" pin.

Mouseketab

PXLated said:

Derailed thread - Sorry bout that - It's so easy to do :-(

Another forum I belong to, anything after the question has been answered and 10 posts, derailing is fine and encouraged

Anybody got any beer