Our 2021 CS-S new Electrical modifications completed this off season

tomtek

We took delivery on our 2021 CS-S in march of 2021 and after the first few times out realized it wasn't really up for the boondocking we had in our 2009.   I spent the summer getting the the idle battery drain to a minimum with switches and modifications.  At the end of the season I started the process of converting to Lithium and getting all electrical to better support longer boondocking lengths.  

Below is a list of what I put into the project up to this point.  Going into 2022 season I don't have any more changes to make until I get some time on the system.   I am especially curious what the Air8 use is possible on 280aH or possibly 560aH.   

The asterisks are my rating on the purchase.   

Charging Systems $927

Progressive Dynamics PD4060KV $122 on Amazon Renewed *****

Victron SmartSolar 100/30 $220 *****

Victron Temp Sensor $25 *****

Victron SmartShunt 500A $130.90 **** (Bluetooth power is weak, side connector is cheap)

Bluetti Power PV200 200watt suitcase panel $429 **** (Kick stand is light but not super strong, Expensive)

Supports second panel if desired.

280aH Lithium Battery $618

DALY BMS 4S 12V 200A $161.75 * (Returned to Amazon received wrong item and didn’t turn on easily)

RadioB BMS 4S 12V 120A $120 **** (Seems Better and cheaper than DALY)

 Qty 4) VariCore 3.2V 280ah LifePO4 Batteries $467 - Aliexpress and only item not purchased from Amazon

Heltec Balancer $31 ***** - Probably not needed will unhook

Relocated to Passenger side Wheel Well storage.  Wiring supports another possible battery bank

Pros

Temperature stable

Security stable

Tub storage is nice to have.

Cons

Loss of storage space inside

Inverter $199

Giadel 1200Watt Pure Sine Inverter $199 **** (Half power fan kicks on and gets warm)

2000Watt probably would have been better choice for cooling reasons.

Misc Fuses, Junction Blocks and cabling $295

Battery Kill switch $8

3/8 Power Junction Blocks $15

Qty 2) Victron Modular Fuse Holder $36

Qty 2)Victron 100A MegaFuse $15

10ft 6 Gauge Welding Cable with Lugs $39

10ft 8 Gauge Welding Cable with Lugs $34

10ft 2 Gauge Welding Cable with Lugs $63

Lug Crimpers $33 *****

Furrion Solar Port Inlet for RV $26 **** (Mounted next to Shore Power)

Generic Furrion to MC4 Adapter $26 *** (Doesn’t snap in properly but works)

Transfer switch items $101

16Amp Mini Circuit Breaker $9

20Amp Mini Circuit Breaker $9

30Amp 2 Pole DPDT Power Relay $65

Din Rail Terminal Block $9

Grounding Strip $9

Pros

Prevents AC from being back fed into inverter 

Prevents unwanted AC drains during inverter use.  Alde and Converter/Charger not tied to inverter A/C

All outlets and Air8 remain on Inverter or Shore power

Existing electrical mods for energy saving and function $359

MaxxAir 7000K MaxxFan $330 ***** 

Rocker Switches to turn off 12V on devices TV, Radio, USB Outlets $8 *****

Wired Step light to Porch light circuit ***** (Super Easy no reason not to do this mod for Bug deterrent and power saving)

Removed Propane safety solenoid $<10 ***** (Requires responsibility of turning off stove and propane bottle)

IR Remote extender $11 ***** extends remote stereo control to outside Clamshell 

Items for convenience $

12volt to USB-C Laptop power supply.

12Volt Power Outlet, USB,  USB-C Ports with switch Waterproof $20 Mounted on Tub replacing SAE port

Dewalt 12V/20V MAX Car Charger $109 (Drill, small 20volt Chainsaw, Fan) All chargeable from 12 volt outlets via Dewalt car charger

Repurposed Tub battery cables to 12volt outlet for charging portable electronics and dewalt 20volt charger

Tow Vehicle charging disconnected until DC to DC is added if ever needed

The Bluetti isn’t just watts double of the built in Solar.   It charges at multiples of the built in

Cheers

Dutch061

Sounds great! You have had a busy "off season". 

My guess is that if you were to double your Ah to 560; that you would be able to run the Air8 for 5 to 8 hours depending on set temperature, ambient temperature, thermal load, whether you have programmed the fan to run continuously or not, and the other variables. You may have issues with 1200 Watts when the compressor is starting that will require a soft start or possible a larger inverter.

Brad

tomtek

Thanks Brad I wanted it all completed and tested to a satisfaction level before the camping season starts for us.  

The Air8 fan pulls 12 amps @ 12volts continuous and I have that back to run with compressor.    We run the MaxxAir to circulate inside and provide noise.   I have already ran the Air8 a few times on the inverter it doesn't appear to have any issues with starting compressor so far runs @ 700watts with startup of 950 watts @ 12volts.   I think a size up inverter (2000 watt) would be better though for the internal temp of the inverter.  The inverter fan runs fast and continuous after it hits the 600 watts mark.

It really boils down to how hot outside and how often the Air8 needs to cycle along with how long the duty cycle is.   If compressor only runs a cumulative hour during the night i'm going to be able to recover 60aH with Solar and Sun.

I have a logging device that will record inside and outside temperatures and also the Air8 duty cycle I will use during testing.

We are rarely in the camper during day so the plan in opening windows after dark running ceiling fan to cool inside down.   After inside is same temp as outside then turn Air8 on to cool down and remove humidity.  The unknown variable is what the duty cycle is at average summer temps we camp in.  

Looking forward to 2022 season.   Hopefully heading south early to get to warmer temps sooner.

Tom

Maxcamp

amazing info, thank you.  can imagine the time it took to engineer, install, rejigger systems, and develop this archive.  Tremendously helpful to those of us looking to do some of these upgrades.

[Deleted User]

I noticed the blue tooth signal is very weak also! I thought it was just mine.  My camper is about 15 feet from my bedroom and I can only get it to pick it up it I go to my window and even then it's not a sure thing.  Fine on the camper of course.  The solar controller has a great signal.

Dutch061

The issues with Bluetooth in my experience has not been the strength of signal from the Victron components but rather the strength in my phone. If I use my tablet, I connect at 2 to 3 times the distance. 

Brad

tomtek

First picture I will try and post pictures of each mod to use as research in your own projects.   This picture has the switch to kill power to Stereo when not in use.  Also in view is the Infrared remote extender.   The extender allows the Stereo remote to be used in the clamshell kitchen area.  


Tom and Deb 

gooselady

I would love a kill switch to the TV and stereo system and outside step light.  Have you done anything with the blue lighted interior switches on the control panel?  I have a particular hate for those.

nbrandt

tomtek

Thanks for this great post.  I have the very same trailer with the very same issues.  My wife happens to really like the porch step light - I don't like the battery drain and have just unhooked it.  I wish it could be on a separate switch - though that would be another thing to remember. Wiring to the porch light does not appear to be easy.  If you discover anything about this, please let us know.  Thank you!

nbrandt

PS

I do find that the radio remote works without the extender if you step over and aim it through the window, but the extender would be nice.

Marceline

nbrandt said:

tomtek

Thanks for this great post.  I have the very same trailer with the very same issues.  My wife happens to really like the porch step light - I don't like the battery drain and have just unhooked it.  I wish it could be on a separate switch - though that would be another thing to remember. Wiring to the porch light does not appear to be easy.  If you discover anything about this, please let us know.  Thank you!

I use a solar-powered motion activated light over my step.
Like this  but discontinued, unfortunately.

SLJ

Looks a lot like my list. I'm about 2/3s of the way through. First thing I did was move the battery inside and upgrade, disconnect the step light and install a bank of switches to turn everything off... Radio, TV, Blue-Ray, Overhead LEDs, and the USB chargers to get rid of all those drains on the battery.

tomtek

nbrandt said:

tomtek

Thanks for this great post.  I have the very same trailer with the very same issues.  My wife happens to really like the porch step light - I don't like the battery drain and have just unhooked it.  I wish it could be on a separate switch - though that would be another thing to remember. Wiring to the porch light does not appear to be easy.  If you discover anything about this, please let us know.  Thank you!

I did discover how to rewire step light yesterday.   Better pictures to follow but the process was pretty painless if you can do basic wiring..   But the connection for the step light is spliced using IDC splice connectors in the oval area in the picture.  Open the cabinet door and on the inside of the right side of the cabinet you will feel the splices.   I disconnected splices from the 12 volt power source wires and extended those up to the nuCAmp monitor and spliced using the same type of IDC Splice to the Porch light power  the negative is put into the neutral bus bar.   Now the step light can only turn on if I have the porch light on along with the step out saving power when light is not needed.

tomtek

This is the location of the new external Solar charger connection with the Victron 100/30 Charge controller right on the inside of the external connector.   It says 10Amp not sure how hard that amperage rating is but it looks pretty robust to support 20 Amp.  

tomtek

The SAE Port was removed on tub and a Water resistant 12 volt outlet was added in its place.   This also has a switch and a USB charge jack.  The purpose here is to have an external location to charge both mobile devices and the Dewalt 20 volt car battery charger.  I prefer to leave battery charging outside of the T@B cabin for Safety, Noise and heat reasons.  All switched to minimize power draw when not in use.
.

tomtek

Here is the TV Power source shutoff and Inverter Power additions.   The Power inserter for the King antenna is on the back of TV hardwired to the TV Power wires.   This makes sure when TV Power switch is off there is zero battery drain.

tomtek

gooselady said:

I would love a kill switch to the TV and stereo system and outside step light.  Have you done anything with the blue lighted interior switches on the control panel?  I have a particular hate for those.

It wouldn't be difficult to add a switch to turn off the LEDs on the switches.   Each lighted rocker switch has a negative ground connection.  Just put a switch breaking the ground to the 3 lighted switches.    I personally prefer LEDs to remind me to turn everything off.   And I have a particular hate for any glowing light at night also.   

tomtek

Update I got my second pack built

2nd 280aH Lithium Battery $501.64

JDB Smart BMS 4S 12V 120A $66.64 **** Aliexpress

Qty 4) VariCore 3.2V 280ah LifePO4 Batteries $435 - Aliexpress

Brings my total capacity

560aH Lithium Battery $1120 tested capacity 565aH

Next step is to weigh the batteries to compare to AGM/flooded battery weight

Pictures of cleaned up battery bay soon to follow.

Da_Birds

I see you have a CS model. If you or others are not aware, the gas cutoff switch draws power whenever the clamshell is open. If you are like us and have the clamshell open much of the day it can be a significant drain. The simplest mod is just find something to slip in the switch shroud to power off the solenoid when you aren't using the stove.

Here's a good discussion on the topic:

https://tabforum.nucamprv.com/#/discussion/11515/does-your-2018-and-later-clamshell-cs-have-a-solenoid-valve-for-propane-flow

tomtek

Da_Birds said:

I see you have a CS model. If you or others are not aware, the gas cutoff switch draws power whenever the clamshell is open. If you are like us and have the clamshell open much of the day it can be a significant drain. The simplest mod is just find something to slip in the switch shroud to power off the solenoid when you aren't using the stove.

Here's a good discussion on the topic:

https://tabforum.nucamprv.com/#/discussion/11515/does-your-2018-and-later-clamshell-cs-have-a-solenoid-valve-for-propane-flow

This should be in flashing neon lights when purchasing a Clamshell.  I chose to remove my cut off solenoid.

With a standard flooded lead acid battery the solenoid alone can kill the battery in 24 hours.