How to use Atwood Hitch Coupler

BobMc

If the tow vehicle is too far back (too close to trailer) when hitching up, the clamp mechanism inside the coupler cannot engage underneath the hitch ball, because the ball is blocking the clamp from moving into place, therefore the latching mechanism won’t close. The tow vehicle then needs to be inched barely forward so ball is at front of the the coupler receptacle (pocket); that will allow the clamp to move underneath the ball when the latch is lowered. If latch is not fully lowered, you ‘ain’t hitched! 

Similarly, when unhitching, if tow vehicle is too far back (or a downhill slope pushes trailer closer to tow vehicle), the lifting mechanism cannot release, and hitch appears jammed closed. This is a common problem because the last movement you make when un-hitching is often moving in reverse. The coupler can appear “jammed” and the latch won’t lift. 

The solution (when unhitching) is to block the trailer wheels so it can’t roll forward, then inch the tow vehicle barely forward… 1/4 to 1/2” is enough. Usually simply shifting from PARK to FWD and right back to PARK (without stepping on the gas) will do it. This takes rearward pressure off the clamp and the latch can lift.
 If you were on a downhill this is a safety factor; the blocked trailer can’t roll into your tow vehicle when you unhitch. That’s a feature of the Atwood design.

Here is a video by an RV dealer describing the Atwood coupler.

https://youtu.be/Zq3f8b37laQ

The trick of moving from PARK to FWD or REV and right back to park to get a tiny movement in the desired direction is very useful when hitching up too, and you need “just an inch”.

manyman297

Yeah, this was something I had trouble with in the beginning and it took some googling to figure out what I was doing wrong. 

At one point I almost bent the lever trying to pry the coupler off.

Now I just make it a habit of always making sure I inch forward a bit when hitching/unhitching.