No heat using shore power - Control Panel settings

benderenns

I get no heat just setting the "lightening bolts" column to the max setting and the thermostat  set to the max.

I do get a 'click' and apparent glycol movement thru the system when I ALSO choose the setting that has a picture of the Water AND Heat in the other column….Is it OK to use this setting w/o any water in the tank? I assume the glycol heating does no damage as it circulates in its own system…

Thanks,

Chris

2015 Tab - Q 

XPADREX

That was the only way I got heat.

XPADREX

I have been frustrated with what appears to be a bizarre LG only hybrid of 3000 controls on a 3010 chassis, only without the heat only option of its European brethren.

Wanderoo

Benderenns -- Did you try running the system with the slider to position J (heat only)? To get heat, you need to have the circulation pump on, too, which is controlled by the third slider.  If the slider is on Position H, it is OFF.  Turn the third slider to setting I for heat and hot water or setting J for heat only.  The heat is controlled by the room temperature, sort of like your home furnace works.  Increase the setting with Knob K to override the room temperature in order for the heat to kick in.

The Alde should operate on either shore power or LP.  I was able to get heat on shore power, but I have not tried it on LP only.

I admit it is confusing.

~X(

benderenns

Thanks Wanderoo for referrring to that one pager with the diagram!

I will try it at "J"

(The image of the water on "J" looks like you are just choosing "water" to heat but it is the opposite? I was confused by the image)

If you only want to heat the water and have no heat, what settings do you use? Or do you just turn the "K" thermostat down to 1 ?

Does the glycol and the fresh water each have their own circulation pumps? 

The switch to turn on the "water pump" on the wall near the stove is for the sink purposes only?

Thanks for your help!!!

Wanderoo

Benderenns -- The water pump switch on the wall is to be used only if you are not connected to city water, and it will pump water from your fresh water tank through the lines.  Do not run the pump with less than 2 inches of water in the fresh water tank. You might want to try filling the fresh water tank and turning on the pump to get some water into your lines, if you haven't already done that.  (Water is not required to operate the heating portion of the Alde system.)

As I understand it, the circulation pump for the Alde is activated from the control panel on the wall.  I think I know what you are saying about choosing water only.  I don't have the diagram in front of me, but just choose the icon for water only if that's what you want.  I believe "hot water only" will also work if you have the setting on both heat and water, and like you say, just turn the thermostat down. 

A couple other things to check:  Is your inline fuse to your battery okay? Are your main breaker fuses okay? Is your glycol level okay on your overflow tank?  If you still can't get it to work, perhaps your Alde fuses are blown.  There are two of them located underneath the gray cover of the Alde, encased in a green plastic holder.  Pop them out to check if the filament is broken.  I took one of my fuses to Radio Shack to get several replacement fuses "just in case" it blows. (I posted a picture of the green Alde fuse box on March 9th under the Alde discussion.)  I have the specific fuse number for the Alde fuse, and I'll post it up after I get home from work. 

If all this fails, perhaps you can call your dealer to walk you though it before you make the trek back with T@B.    

Let us know if any of this works.   

:-??

Wanderoo

The specific fuse to get for the Alde is F3.15AL 250 VLAC, 5 x 20 mm.  These are slow-blow fuses for sensitive electronics.  I got some from Radio Shack.  Very inexpensive.

benderenns

Thanks Wanderoo!

First, I set the control panel to "J" and the thermostat up as well set the electrical to "B". No click or heating over about 20 minutes was sensed.

Well then, I added some fresh water manually to the water tank, kept the thermostat up and set the control panel to "C"  and "I". I heard a "Click" sound with the "I" setting and could feel the heat with my hands on the dark glycol tubes under the bench. It was very quiet which was nice.

Since I got a response I haven't yet checked any fuses but will get the Alde fuse you provided as a backup as well as the other back-up fuses for the control panel. 

Today I will try again with the "J" setting to see if I also get heat and will let you know…

Thanks so much!

benderenns

BillandElaine

Here is how we set the Alde Controls for heat when we plug in the T@B to the campsite power box. With these setting you will have hot water too if you have water in the hot water heater. 

Of course you want to be sure the AC power is switched on at the campsite pedestal. I check it by plugging something into one of the 110 volt outlets inside the T@B. 

The heat can be felt in about 30 minutes. It's very evident in an hour. You'll hear the system in operation as fluid flows through the "radiators".

We have never tried to use the LP (flame setting).

CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO ENLARGE THEM FOR VIEWING

Bill

2014 T@B CS-S

BillandElaine

With all this discussion about T@B fuses, does anyone have a listing of all the fuses used in the 2014 T@Bs equipped with the Alde System?

Bill

2014 T@B CS-S

Corfu

Bill, I love when a question inspires me to learn something I should learn about the T@B, and teaches me about something else, like fuses!

Here you go: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/163/fuse-inventory

BillandElaine

Thank you so much Steve!! 

Your fuse inventory is an important resource for anyone who wants to be prepared for an blown fuse. I intend to carry these fuses in the T@B, just in case.

Bill

2014 T@B CS-S

2011 Subaru Forester

XPADREX

Nice. That one should be a "sticky".

Wanderoo

Yes, Steve, thank you so much.  I need to get spare fuses to operate the Norcold if I blow a fuse.    :(

belvagillespie

We had a blown fuse at the BRR. 30 A battery. Located our spare fuse and power restored. 

We still need to get the "pigtail" replaced. Neil thought it looked worn and affected by the recent battery problem. 

Did I tell you guys that both black rubber screw cover gaskets blew off when we left the BRR. One blew off at 2:45 pm and the other at 3:15 pm. We were amazed. 

BillandElaine

I'm guessing Belva is talking about the long gaskets that run from front to back over top of the trailer on the Clamshell model.  If that's what she is referring to, we had one fall off in FL. Apparently when the gaskets get warm, they expand and are subject to winds lifting them out of their channel. The result for us was a long, black streamer flailing against the trailer as we drove. The more experienced T@bbers told me to use shoe goo to secure the gasket into the channel ever six inches. I did that yesterday.  I hope it works. 

Bill

Mount Airy, MD

2014 T@B CS-S

2011 Subaru Forester

BillandElaine

I guess not Neil. The Clamshell has a different design. The other models have that very nice piece of colored trip that runs from front to back. Your gasket is behind that trim.

belvagillespie

No riddle, Ed called the part a "screw gasket". We will be adding Shoo Goo to the screw gasket and the tool box. 

XPADREX

We utilized our Alde last night. The night started out cool and comfortable, both windows cracked and the vent on exhaust. At about 2 or 3, we woke up and it was freezing in here. I activated the Alde, and it slowly but surely warmed the cabin.

The settings we used were two lightning bolts, slider on "water and furnace", and the temp knob set to the cicle (22 degree Celsius).

I do think I will bebgetting a fan for under the bed (along with a much denser mattress pad than our eggshell, but that's another thread!)

DurangoTaB

Are the Alde fuses "slow blow' (as Beth says) or "fast blow" as Steve's spreadsheet says (Radio Shack only has slow blow)? Having talked to LG (go Scott!), I now understand the lightning bolts (and this pdf referenced in the forum http://www.alde.se/media/53810/manoverpanel_mekanisk_3010-214_v-3010-19_rev_964.pdf). The lightning bolts equate roughly to 1K, 2K, and 3K watts of (shore) power. I'm guessing unless you have to have a heavy gauge shore line and 30amp service (i.e. not just my garage) to use the "3 lightning bolt" setting. Since cranking up the heat knob also cranks up the hot water temp, I notice it can get REALLY hot (way over 120deg).

Wanderoo

Hi, DurangoT@B -- I'm glad you are getting your Alde up and going.  I agree that LG has the best customer service I have ever experienced.  I had to call LG to get some questions answered about the Alde, and I found Ed Kaufman to be super-accommodating.

So, I stand corrected, as it is the fast acting fuse F3.15Al 250VLAC that the Alde should have.  I did find some in stock at Radio Shack, but I don't think all of their stores carries them.  Here's the kind I bought.  I believe the "F" in front of the description indicates it is fast acting.    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103762&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032234 

BryanR

Beth - you have the right description of the fuse but the link is to a 0.315 amp instead of 3.15 amp fuse.

Wanderoo

Well, I keep messing up this post, and so I think I'll quit with my tail between my legs.  I'm pretty sure I bought the right thing, but I'd better check my spare fuses tomorrow when I visit T@B.  I do know I got it at Radio Shack.  I was there.   :((

RollingLagrima

BillandElaine said:

I'm guessing Belva is talking about the long gaskets that run from front to back over top of the trailer on the Clamshell model.  If that's what she is referring to, we had one fall off in FL. Apparently when the gaskets get warm, they expand and are subject to winds lifting them out of their channel. The result for us was a long, black streamer flailing against the trailer as we drove. The more experienced T@bbers told me to use shoe goo to secure the gasket into the channel ever six inches. I did that yesterday.  I hope it works. 

Bill

Mount Airy, MD

2014 T@B CS-S

2011 Subaru Forester

Hi Bill, I had the same thing occur last weekend, here in the Florida heat, with my SS (black strip flailing lose behind me). I pulled over and worked it back into the channel. Did the Shoe Goo hold? I am also thinking about securing it using washers at the two anchor points (front and back of the TD). 'Anybody else done this? I think it would prevent "pull through" of the warmed up rubber off the bolt heads holding this strip to the frame.

radren

The shoe goo fix, do you just glob and smooth on top of the rubber gaskets? Do you pick them up only if they are loose? Anyone?

BillandElaine

I followed the advise of the Tab owners who have the older Dutchman Clamshell models. They suggested that I apply the Shoe Goo under the gasket, avoiding getting it on top of the gasket.(It can make a mess.) When the gasket is warm, it is very easily worked to the side within the channel. It was also easy to lift up as well. You apply a blob of Shoe Goo under the gasket, every 6 inches under the length of the gasket. These folks say this fix has lasted them for five years and more. None of them said they had to do the job a second time.

We road tested our T@B after using the Shoe Goo twice, traveling at highway speeds for hours each time. We had no problems with the gaskets since using the Shoe Goo fix.

Bill

Maryland

2014 T@B CS-S

2011 Forester

radren

Hi Billand Elaine,

Thanks for the tip. I understand the problem and the fix now. I get my T@Baby in late august. Can't wait!

ren 

Justjudy

I have a question about the Alde fuses...my husband and I, like many of you, are putting together emergency fuse kits and familiarizing ourselves with all of our equipment and systems. My question is - where are the fuses located on the Alde? Has anyone photographed them? Is all of the relevant stuff behind the fold-down seatback in the screwed-down compartment?

Wanderoo

Hi, Judy -- Put the rear seats in the UP position.  Lift up the driver's side seat bench and you will see the Alde.  There is a grey/silver box which has a lid on it that you can open.  You will see a green fuse box which houses the Alde fuses in it.  (I posted a picture of it earlier this year.)  There are two glass fuses that will pop out easily, and BTW, it doesn't matter which way the fuses are inserted!!!  The screw-down compartment in the back has the glycol reservoir in it.  I keep my compartment unscrewed so I can check my glycol fluid on a regular basis.

https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/FileUpload/2e/c5669026888a444f4579673ccda3b4.jpg

Hope this helps.

Justjudy

Yes, it helps a lot! Thank you so much!