Water Pump 2015 T@B CS-S

DukeHewett

Alas, the pump, and/or the pressure switch may have finally given out on us.  On-board water tank is full, fuse is good.  Pump makes no sound as it usually does to build up pressure, nada!.     I'm guessing that the pump or the pressure switch attached to it has gone bad.   Prior to removing the pump, what would be the best way to insure that 12V DC power is, in fact, getting to the pump?   In researching the Artis pump PDSI-130-1240E, it would appear that regardless of whiter it is the pump or pressure switch just replacing the entire unit would be the way to go.   Replacing it looks to be pretty simple, but I'd like to make sure there is 12V DC getting to it before ordering and replacing it.  Advise on testing it or experience in replacing the unit would be most appreciated.   Thanks Tabbers!

DukeHewett

The pump or Pressure switch IS bad.    Every site I search for an exact replacement shows they are out of stock or unavailable.   Does anyone have a source for the replacement OR another brand that will be real easy to swap out?  Here's the one we have:   Artis PDS1-130-1240E
Thanks for any help.

Grumpy_G

Yes the pump is currently unobtanium or maybe even out of production, as I found out last December. I just used a random ShurFlo pump off Amazon, most RV water pumps are the same basic design and interchange without issues. 

DukeHewett

Thanks Grumpy.  I think the Pentair ShurFlo 4008-101-E65 (or A65) are very similar and I'll probably order from Amazon in the next couple days.

Grumpy_G

That's the one I got. 

norwood

I need to replace the water pump on our 2015 320 MaxQ. It has the same Artis pump (PDS1-130-1240E) as @DukeHewett. I found the ShurFlo 4008-101-A65 on Amazon. The specs look similar to the Artis product (12v, 3.0 gpm) but the pressure rating is 55 psi. Should this be a concern in that our Tab max water pressure is 50 psi? Also, the ShurFlow shut-off pressure is 45 psi -vs- the 40 psi for the original Artis pump. We are leaving in a couple of weeks for an extended trip out west so I want to make certain I get this right. Thanks for any suggestions.

norwood

As a follow up, I just heard back from Creed at the factory and he said the Shurflo pump referenced on Amazon is the same pump currently used in production 320s, so it will work.

DukeHewett

Odd 12V voltage to pump with blown fuse.   In replacing our bad water pump, I also had a blown 10A fuse, BUT was getting a small amount of 12V to the pump.  Not enough to run the pump, but there must be some kind of 'phantom voltage' getting through.   Checking the fuse with an Ohmeter shows 0 at all settings of resistance.  As little as we use the 12 volt pump, I found it odd that it would fail with little usage. (same with a friend).    Anyone else have the same problem, and is there an explanation for showing a small amount of 12V to the pump while a blown fuse is in the fuse block?

ckjs

DukeHewett said:

Odd 12V voltage to pump with blown fuse.   … BUT was getting a small amount of 12V to the pump.  Not enough to run the pump, but there must be some kind of 'phantom voltage' getting through.   Checking the fuse with an Ohmeter shows 0 at all settings of resistance.  …

The WFCO “blown fuse” LED allows a few milliamps to flow through to the circuit’s loads.  That is enough for a voltmeter to detect, but not enough to run anything real.

DukeHewett

Thanks for explaining why I still got a voltage reading on my meter.   That brings up another question.   IF the water pump blows the fuse for some reason, can the few milliamps you speak of do damage to the pump or pressure switch?  Blowing the fuse normally means something is wrong and the water pump should not receive any voltage (hence the reason for a fuse).   I'm just trying to figure out why my water pump and a couple other peoples water pumps had to be replaced when they really get very little use.