After getting my T@B400 back from nuCamp with a replaced ALDE boiler (separate story
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17138/alde-unit-seeping-all-its-antifreeze-onto-the-floor) I was testing everything out and had practically no hot water pressure. I’ve taken care of every other (beside ALDE corrosion) repair myself so set out to figure this one out.
Turns out the thermostatic mixing valve intake screen was clogged.
It is in the blue circle above. Disconnected and took it out, cleaned it out as best I could (and ordered a new one $130) and put it back together — full hot water pressure. Almost as good as the cold water pressure which hasn’t been true for the past over a year.
So then the question is “why was it clogged?” The water is all through a filter, the pump has a filter on it, etc. And what I cleaned out of it was little black pieces of plastic or rubber. Working backwards through the system the next piece (yellow circle) is the one way valve. I unscrewed it and took it out and the insides of it fell out (should not be possible with disassembling the mechanism) and the black plastic connector itself was flaking apart inside.
My only guess is that it cannot handle the heat. Seems unlikely to me but not sure why it would be flaking off plastic like that after 2.5 years.
This small section of pipe between the ALDE and the mixing valve (green outline in the picture above) has super heated water in it (145-165 degrees Fahrenheit, check your service menu on the ALDE panel with it set to hot water boost). This was confirmed with a temperature check on that red pipe.
The mixing valve brings in cold water to bring the temperature down to <120 degrees (depending on what it is set to) before going through the rest of the trailers pipes.
I found a nice brass replacement on Amazon for <$8 (Valterra P23415LF 1/2" Lead-Free Check Valve https://a.co/d/6Z2PDv7) that is a perfect drop in replacement fit. It has a similar looking internal white plastic mechanism but I don’t think that is what failed — the black plastic housing pipe of the old valve itself was disintegrating. I may consider replacing the two plastic ½” threaded pex adapters on either side with brass ones as well— the one on the ALDE side of the connector is discolored (powdery white).
Waiting to see if this might also fix my strange intermittent water pump turning on for 1 second randomly— possibly related to the failed one-way valve.
Comments
You replaced the thermostatic mixing valve? Do you think that was necessary once you cleaned the screen? And from whom did you purchase it?
Thank you,
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
2023 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E with Redarc Trailer Brake Controller
Oh well...it was a good thought! I guess we'll both see where this leads over time...
Funny thing...My mixing valve stopped working as well on that same trip the pump starting the random 1 second cycling. I took the valve apart and wiped off some minor corrision, and it has worked fine since.
The pump turns on/off via a pressure switch - perhaps that is the culprit.
Edit:
Found this article with this tidbit:
https://www.thervgeeks.com/rv-water-pump-pulsing/#:~:text=Your RV's water pump uses,of water pumps are adjustable.
"Also, as the pump ages, sometimes the tension of the spring changes, and a small adjustment can make the difference between a pulsing or non-pulsing water pump."
2023 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E with Redarc Trailer Brake Controller
cheers
2020 Tacoma TRD Off-Road
Thank you,
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
Ontario, Canada
2018 Tab 400
Ford F150 2.7 Lariat