Norcold 3-way won't work, need step by step testing procedures from the T@B hive mind.

Tross2023

Equipment: Norcold Model No. N180.3R

Serial No. 27370072

 

My overhead view of my frig

We bought this rig the last week of May, took it out right away, frig worked on all 3 modes.

NOW:  

3-way Norcold N.180.3 in a 2018 320S almost perfectly level

We tried to get it to warm up to make the chemical reaction to make the frig cold. Nothing Happens

AC: Shore power turned on nothing happens, yes frig set to shore power, we see the little green light on the frig control panel, the 20 amp breaker is not tripped.

DC: Battery is new, and plenty of amps, 13.8 on the battery per the volt meter

Propane: Propane Tank ¾ full.

Propane tank turned on checked this by turning a burner on the stove top.

After a few hours, no heat coming off the outside heat vent…certainly no cooling, yes frig set to coldest. 

Mechanic said NO SPARK when I push the ignite button.

 

All three methods for getting Mr. Norcold to get cold are not successful..

Currently: Fuses/Breakers not-tripped, all plastic fuses checked for signs of burnout, all appear normal.

Frig is currently on shore power (30 amp) and is getting power, per the green plug icon on the control panel, no heat coming from the outside vent

 I am open to suggestions / tests or documented procedures for checking this beast to find out what is broken. .

I just bought a bag of glass fuses for this beast.

 

YanniLazarus

I have the same refrigerator and it stopped working on propane- but worked fine on shore and battery power... so I won't share my own path to successful repair, other than to write that a critical step was to get remote help from The Norcold Guy. Two or three phone conversions got me to a list of likely required replacement parts, which I ordered from him. NOT a perfect experience, but it worked... and my Norcold works... and I smile every time it lights. I don't think I would have made it without the Norcold Guy's help.

Following this post- no doubt- other T@Ber's references to countless electric only refrigerator replacement options!  Perhaps inevitable...

Tross2023

So I will await developments here, AND contact the Norcold Guy. Thanks 

Grumpy_G

The crux with this type of 3-way fridge is that it basically has three completely different heat sources: Thermostat controlled AC, constant power DC (no adjustment) and gas with adjustable flame size. 

For troubleshooting purposes set the fridge to battery with shore power disconnected. You should measure a noticeable voltage drop at the battery. This indicates the heating element is working. You can reconnect shore power and leave the fridge on DC for a few hours. If does not cool down the cooling unit has lost its pressure. 

If that checks out, test the AC heater. *Disconnect shore power* and measure resistance across the AC heater. The wiring diagram is on top of the fridge. It should measure sub-100 ohms. 

Problems with gas operation can indeed be the igniter. IIRC it is not possible to remove the wire at the igniter so you'll probably need a way to look inside the burner box. Sorry can't be more specific, I have the older style fridge. 

Tross2023

Thanks grumps, checking with this instruction.

MuttonChops

@Tross2023 ;
. . . suggest you follow the NorCold Troubleshooting Flow Chart for 120VAC Operation (below).

Tross2023

Thanks Mr. Chops, great way to start

YanniLazarus

I like that... Mr. Chops!  It would be useful if you can post the trouble shooting guide for propane as well. I never did find it. 

MuttonChops

YanniLazarus said:
I like that... Mr. Chops!
. . . would be useful if you can post the trouble shooting guide for propane as well.

Actually the AC Operation Flow Chart is from the earlier 3136 model Fridge.
It is the same design as the N180.3 at least for the 120VAC.  See Here, the first post has the full Service Manual of model-3136.

With a bit of 'user logic' you could use the Propane Flow Charts to troubleshoot the N180.3 . . . just remember the N180.s uses a Different Ignition Method