Countertop Replacement - 2017 320S (plus sink, faucet, HepVo for p-trap)

tombeaux

This project started as a sink and faucet replacement. Inspired by the multiple faucet swaps on this forum and others. We liked the idea of a more functional faucet. Our original plastic sink had a crease in it from a hot pan during an early outing. Since I was replacing the sink, replacing the p-trap with a HepvO valve seemed like a good idea to give us a little more usable space under the sink.

The original counter had some swelling due to water, mostly from another operator error. We left the pump on while driving and either a liquid soap dispenser or the cutting board bounced into the faucet, turning it on. The stopper was in the drain. We opened the trailer door at our campsite to find water, water, everywhere. The particle board backing of the countertop swelled over time.

My wife suggested that if I had the sink and the faucet out, wouldn’t it be “simple” to replace the countertop? Right? Simple to suggest, anyway:)

We ordered the Appaso bar sink faucet from Amazon based on other suggestions on the forum. This forum and others have multiple threads on the Hepvo valve, and (again) we ordered from Amazon.

We wanted to switch to a stainless steel sink to avoid worrying about damaging the plastic with hot cookware. Amazon had one that we thought would work, but it was labeled “sold out” with no forecast on when it would be available. I did an exhaustive search of RV and bar sinks and found one that fit perfectly on the Scamp Trailers parts site.

Rather than replace the counter with similar material (laminate on particle board), we decided to install butcher block. We like the look and it avoided learning to apply and trim laminate on the particle board.

The challenge with using butcher block was finding a slab thin enough to fit. After removing the existing countertop, it was clear that 1” thick was the maximum I could install because of the clearance with the bottom of the front window frame. I suspect that the front window location is not an exact spec at NuCamp, but I’m not sure. Even a butcher block that was 1 ¼” thick would not clear the window frame on our unit.

I finally found a company on Amazon and ordered a 1" slab of butcher block. It shipped quicker than promised and I was on my way! All links to the items I ordered are listed below.

To gain access to the old countertop, I removed the old faucet, sink and P-trap, and the Dometic stove top (four screws plus unscrewing the propane feed hose). Please, turn off the propane at the tank before doing this. I also removed the window frame that contains the screen and window shade. Just pop off the corner trim pieces, remove the four screws at the corners, and it lifts out.

The countertop is held in place with square-drive pocket screws driven in from the bottom. Some of them could be accessed with a screwdriver, but others required using a square bit with a small, right-angle driver. As with most T@B 320 projects, it helps if you are a contortionist. The photo below shows the pockets from under the counter.

Once all the screws were removed, removing the countertop required some pulling, twisting, coaxing, and possibly swearing. I managed to avoid damaging the wall coverings.

I used the old counter as a template, cutting the butcher block slab to size with a circular saw. I then traced the cutouts for the sink and the stove and used a jigsaw to cut them out. Once the cutouts were done; I used a router to remove about ¼” of butcher block to make depressions where the stove slips in and the screws install (again, the old counter was my template for this). The photo below shows the stove cutout after it has been routed and stained. NOTE ON FAUCET: I marked the original hole from the old countertop to mount the faucet. That location barely allowed for clearance of the faucet with the front window shade. Double-check your location for clearance before drilling this hole as I suspect this is a slightly variable spec at NuCamp. 

At this point, I did a test fit of the countertop in the T@B, again twisting at multiple angles (and possibly using colorful language) to get it back in without damage. Satisfied with a good fit, I trial fitted the sink and stove before installing the countertop.

I did a final sanding of the butcher block, then stained it with Minwax semi-transparent, color Natural 209. I used the same color to refinish my sink cabinets a year or so before. They were starting to show some wear. It’s a good match for what NuCamp used with this vintage of T@B. I coated it with Minwax fast-drying polyurethane in a warm satin finish (again, a good match with the original). Both products are oil-based. NOTE: the FDA and National Science Foundation both approve these products as food-safe once they have dried. Hint: there is so little surface area left after you do the cutouts that you can buy the smallest cans of the Minwax products.

For final installation of the countertop, you can access the screws using the holes left by the sink and stove and the open cabinet doors (or take the doors off). A square drive screwdriver (if you own a T@B, you should be familiar) was used on many of the screws. For areas with less access, I used a square drive bit with a small ratchet. If you don’t have one, this kit from Amazon is inexpensive and is a useful tool for other T@B projects and repairs.

I finished with a small bead of almond-colored caulk on all three sides.

There are threads on this forum on installing the HepVo, so I won't repeat that information. Again, the ability to contort your limbs is a great asset for T@B projects. I wish I was better at that!

We have used this replacement for about 40 nights, with probably 8,000 road miles, and no issues. I use a stainless steel spray polish periodically on the sink. The faucet is retractable and much more useful than the original. 

 

Links to products mentioned.

·        Butcher Block Countertop - https://a.co/d/1rGMIU0

·        Faucet - https://a.co/d/gJsZ7zX

·        Stainless Sink - https://www.scamptrailers.com/product/stainless-steel-sink

·        Hepvo Valve - https://a.co/d/igEskqH

·        Mini Ratchet set - https://a.co/d/j3YIYcD

 

fstop32

@tombeaux, let me be the first to post a "job well done"!  I've had this project on my to-do list for some time, and now I've tied it to replacing the front cabinet frame & doors with cherry (which means who knows when I'll actually get to it :^ D).  You've given me some great ideas and a great plan to follow.  Only thing I can think to add is Bar Keepers Friend does a wonderful job on all things stainless.
Happy Trails!

tombeaux

fstop32 - Thanks for the tip. Why cherry on the cabinets?

fstop32

@tombeaux, when I had to replace my entire Alde system sans boiler I redesigned and built a new and improved rear section (see Back Shelf Rebuild or Post Corrosion Fallout).  I had a good bit of cherry lumber in the shop and decided to build the new rear lower cabs and the bench framing in cherry and to over time change all the cabinet doors and face frames to cherry as well.

dragonsdofly

@tombeaux beautiful. Nicely done. I'm sure you more than earned your knowledge patch of t@b yoga from the t@b university. This is an older running joke here on the forum.

Those of us who have been under, over, round about and through our trailers have well experienced and utilized as well as created new moves and positions in our t@b yoga repertoire.

Tabaz

Outstanding craftmanship!  Your pre-install planning taking into consideration exact tolerances is exemplary.  Very little wiggle room in these small spaces.  Nicely done.  Should inspire others to do the same.