Dutchmen Trailer Tongue Piston

capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
I've got a 2006 T@B Clamshell that we've just taken out for a maiden voyage camping trip from Kennebunkport, Maine up to Grand Manan Island off the coast of New Bruswick.   During the ride up, I had no problems other than an occasional knocking from the hitch which others have mentioned in posts and apparently can be solved using a simple hitch tightener.  However, on the ride home, we kept finding that when we braked or came to a stop the AL-KO hitch dampener piston compressed completely resulting in a pretty severe knock from behind.  I don't remember ever having that piston compress completely and I'm now wondering whether it needs to be replaced?  I've attached a picture of the hitch as I don't believe it is used on new T@B trailers.  Also, maybe mine is defective or I just don't understand how the key lock actually works, but when I turn the lock and remove the key bolt, it doesn't prevent me from lifting the lever and pulling the trailer on or off the ball.  Shouldn't it?  If anyone else has this set up or knows about the functionality, I'd love to hear.  Thank you.

Comments

  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    I actually just had new brakes shoes and bearings installed and repaired the emergency brake to working order.  I was under the impression that there were no zerk fittings on the 2006 version.  And more significantly, I don't want to compress the tongue more easily -- I can already compress it by hand without the TV attached.  That means it compresses too fast and too hard when I come to a stop.  I have reached out to Elisie -- but haven't heard back from her yet.
  • MouseketabMouseketab Member Posts: 1,230
    edited September 2015
    Compressing is just fine. If it compresses that means the brake is working. However, if it fails to "uncompress" after a few seconds, or if the trailer can't be easily pushed backwards by hand while attached to your tow vehicle, then you have a problem. At every stop for fuel, i usually push backwards on the trailer to make sure the brake mechanism hasn't locked up, also feel the wheel hubs to make sure they are not excessively hot.
    Carol
    MOUSE-KE-T@B
    2007 Dutchmen T@B Clamshell #2741
    2022 nuCamp T@B 320 CS-S
    2021 F-150 502A Lariat SuperCrew, 3.5 EcoBoost 4x2
    Harvest, AL
  • MouseketabMouseketab Member Posts: 1,230
    As far as the little lock goes, if you lock it in the hole, you will still be able to lift the handle, but you shouldn't be able to lift it off the ball. Once you remove the little lock is when you should be able to lift the the tongue off your hitch ball.
    Carol
    MOUSE-KE-T@B
    2007 Dutchmen T@B Clamshell #2741
    2022 nuCamp T@B 320 CS-S
    2021 F-150 502A Lariat SuperCrew, 3.5 EcoBoost 4x2
    Harvest, AL
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Thank you very much.  I'll take that advice.
  • CCPICCCCPICC Member Posts: 43
    I have the same issue on my 2010 clamshell the trailer bangs the stop when I put the brakes on, be careful adjusting the twist bolt on the hitch as it came off on mine and I had the brake handle come apart. I had to do emergency repairs in the dirt of my campsite. I have not put grease on the piston shaft but now that I think about it that is a good idea, i will try is as we are taking our T@B out this coming weekend, I will let you know how it works.
  • kccatekccate Member Posts: 51
    I have this style of hitch on my 2007, and really have had a difficult time releasing the hitch from the ball, even when the jack is cranked up to take weight off the TV. I thought perhaps I am just not strong enough to lift the handle. Could someone tell me 1.specifically where to put (what kind of) grease and 2. How to release tension between trailer and TV once I stop?
    I love love loved my  first trip with C@te's Cr@te last weekend, but need to get past needing help from kind muscular strangers. Thank you!

    Cathy and traveling canines, 
    on the sunny side of the street
    2007 Dutchman T@B, C@te's Cr@te
    2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i
  • lazulibuntinglazulibunting Member Posts: 41
    edited September 2015
    kccate said:
    I have this style of hitch on my 2007, and really have had a difficult time releasing the hitch from the ball, even when the jack is cranked up to take weight off the TV. I thought perhaps I am just not strong enough to lift the handle. Could someone tell me 1.specifically where to put (what kind of) grease and 2. How to release tension between trailer and TV once I stop?
    I love love loved my  first trip with C@te's Cr@te last weekend, but need to get past needing help from kind muscular strangers. Thank you!

    I do too. I have discovered that if I open the hatchback of my TV (2010 4Runner), and sit or stand on the bumper, it is much easier to get that hitch latch to come all the way up. Also, set the trailer brake so you don't have pressure either forward or back on the hitch.
    Lazuli Bunting from Utah
    2005 Dutchman T@B & 2010 Toyota 4Runner
  • kccatekccate Member Posts: 51
    This is wonderful instruction, thank you so much!!!!
    Cathy and traveling canines, 
    on the sunny side of the street
    2007 Dutchman T@B, C@te's Cr@te
    2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i
  • kccatekccate Member Posts: 51
    And, Sandra, if I just reverse the information, will I be all hitched up? (with, of course, walking around and removing cords/hoses, closing doors and windows).
    Cathy and traveling canines, 
    on the sunny side of the street
    2007 Dutchman T@B, C@te's Cr@te
    2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i
  • mash2mash2 Member Posts: 581
    kccate.  If you add a setup 9.5 to process you are okay.  Step 9.5 is move the TV forward from the tongue.  You need to move the TV back under the ball before you reverse the direction of the rest of the steps.   May seem obvious, but if you want full instructions, need to put the ball on the TV back under the tongue before you reverse the steps.  
  • kccatekccate Member Posts: 51
    Thanks again, tips saved!
    Cathy and traveling canines, 
    on the sunny side of the street
    2007 Dutchman T@B, C@te's Cr@te
    2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    I know this thread sort of morphed from trailer tongue to folding bikes, but I do wonder if the Dutchman T@B tongue is such a pain, should I consider replacing it with something else?  If so, what and is it a big deal to replace?  I was already thinking about getting rid of the "jockey wheel" in favor of a "Jack e up" so that my bike rack has room in the double hitch on my TV.  Thoughts?
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Thanks.  I saw that thread but also understood that the CURT 45810 Ball Mount pictured below isn't technically an extender.  Even if there is a 50% tow reduction due to extender, the capacity is 7500 pounds and should be fine for the T@B.  No?  What do you think of the Jack-e-ups?


  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Sandra, I like the idea of removing the jockey wheel and using a Jack-e-up or something similar.  Unfortunately my double hitch solution above turns out not to be perfect either as there is not enough room between the bike rack in the upper receiver and the handle of the Dutchman tongue.  As I indicated before, the old tongue continues to give me problems even after greasing all the fittings in that it remains a hammer on/hammer off connection procedure and worse it continues to compress completely every time I hit the brakes at all resulting in a pretty good jolt.  I have found that I can buy a new piston from Elsie -- and I would hope that a new piston would not compress completely at stops, but I'm still going to have the issue of clearance of the handle and the upper bike rack receiver.  You had suggested that if I replace the Dutchman tongue with something else, the surge brakes won't work.  But aren't there other tongue dampeners available and breakaway systems that would work with the Dutchman brakes?  Alternatively, I suppose I could weld an extension into the upper receiver arm to give me the clearance I need.  After all that's only holding the bikes.  But I'm paranoid that even a replacement Dutchman tongue is going to still have problems.  Your thoughts as always are appreciated.
  • blueystarblueystar Member Posts: 40
    what side is drivers side down under we drive on the other side of the road
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    I'm thinking hard about replacing the Dutchman hitch with the McHitch AUEF35K (slightly smaller version of hitch shown in you tube video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31Q-i9RKseQ.  It looks like I could simply connect the parking brake handle to my existing parking brake cable and have both a much better cushioning system and an infinitely better coupling system.  While a little pricey (they come from down under) it seems like this would be a great modification to the T@B.  Might have to weld a plate on to my existing trailer when I remove the Dutchman coupler as I don't believe the bolt holes will line up.  Any one out there used a McHitch system or have thoughts about this mod?
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Can't I just connect the hand brake to the surge brake wire?
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Maybe I don't fully understand the workings of the surge brake, but I thought that it is either on or off.  There's no partially on "slowing" the trailer.  You can turn it on by setting the parking brake, or in the event that the wire connected to the TV becomes taught it pulls the parking brake on and the surge brakes lock up. If I were to try and replace the Dutchman coupler with the one above, I thought the rigid rod would attach to the parking brake and the wire would go from there to the TV.  If there's a brake away, it should function the same as with the Dutchman coupler.  Granted, if I'm backing up and the parking brake were on, it wouldn't release the way it does with the Dutchman, but the benefit of this seems questionable.  No?
  • capewoodscapewoods Member Posts: 36
    Well, it wasn't all to accommodate the bikes.  As I said, I've not been that impressed with the Dutchman connector.  It has been extremely fussy to get on and off (even with the procedures you kindly provided in other posts where people were expressing similar frustrations).  The fact that people carry around a rubber hammer is not exactly a glowing recommendation.  But in addition, I've been unable to "adjust" my existing setup so that the piston doesn't completely compress just coming to a stop sign.  This is a real problem and I could buy a new piston/hitch from Pleasant Valley, but it's $200.  For not too much more, I could substitute the McHitch (video above) which really seems to be a better design wherein the point of connection is separated from the towing forces.  That said, you're absolutely right that I'd rather not lose some functionality in the existing trailer of which I'm not aware.   For example, you say the Dutchman applies the brakes while towing thereby saving the tow vehicle brakes.  How does it do this w/o tripping the handbrake?  Do you think it's possible to substitute a different hitch and still retain this functionality?  Thanks again for your thoughts.  You are extremely knowledgeable about these trailers and I really appreciate your posts both here and elsewhere.
  • kccatekccate Member Posts: 51
    Sandra, I am once again stuck trying to unhitch my 2007 Dutchman alone. I was so proud that I got that far and could release the handle over the ball. This time at step 7. The crank will not move either direction even a hair!  so, no lifting the weight  for me.  Do I want to turn it clockwise or counter to raise the tongue?
    Second, could I just have that jockey wheel replaced with one that works more easily for one woman power? If so, what?
    for now, I am parked in front of my house and my have to tow C@te to the grocery store for food.... Or wine!
    thanks anyone,
    cathy
    Cathy and traveling canines, 
    on the sunny side of the street
    2007 Dutchman T@B, C@te's Cr@te
    2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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