How to Wake Up my Lithium Battery or is it Dead

debbie987

I made a rookie mistake in connecting my new lithium battery backwards (positive to negative and vice versa) and to add insult to injury dropped the wrench across the terminals when trying to rectify the situation leading to some sparks. Now the battery won’t charge on shore power. I’ve read that it may have to be “woken up”. Can anyone weigh in on what I can do to save this expense investment? TIA

SLJ

What battery do you have?

debbie987

Battle Born; 100A; 12 v

pthomas745

You don't say what year and model trailer: this will be important when trying to sort out what fuses or circuit breakers may have blown.

What probably has happened is: the fuses at the battery and the fuses inside the converter are blown.  (On a 400, the Gloso circuit breaker may have blown,) So, open up those little plastic fuse holders on the positive battery cable and check the condition of the 30 amp fuse.

In the converter, there is a fuse set up specifically for this purpose: the "battery protection" fuse is a 40 amp fuse in the converter that needs to be checked.  There is also a battery charger fuse in the converter that needs to be checked.  They are normally the two bottom fuses in the converter.

If you have a 400, look for the Gloso circuit breaker.  This can be in various places depending on the model year.

Last: do you have a multimeter?  A multimeter will tell you in just moments the status of the battery.  The batteries themselves have a Battery Management System that will protect them from damage from "reverse polarity" incidents...but your multimeter will tell you the status, also.

If you have installed solar and the Victron app: depending on the model and year of the trailer, the Victron solar controller also has a "reverse polarity" fuse on the bottom of the controller. (20 amp). If your Victron app is also not responding, find the controller and check that fuse, also.

The Fuses For Newbies file has pictures of the battery fuses and the fuses in the converter.  Let us know what year and model your trailer is and we can point you at the other fuses and maybe the Gloso circuit breaker, etc.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/3512/fuses-for-newbies/p1

debbie987

I have a 2020 320S. I’ll check the fuses for newbies. I checked them already but maybe I was looking at the wrong one. I have access to a multimeter and can see what that tells me.

pthomas745

Ok..the fuses at the battery cable, and the fuses inside the converter are what you need to check. 

morey000

likely the fuses will save you.  (very cheap, easy fix).  if not, the BMS (battery Management System) inside the battery shut down.  it's either fried, or needs to be reset.  Perhaps someone from Battleborne can assist?

SLJ

Just call Battle Borne 855-292-2831

debbie987

I left a message for Battle Born over a week ago and they never replied. At this point I think the battery is ok (see comments below) but more T@b advice required. 
i have now checked the battery with a multimeter; reads 13.4 vdc (which I assume is positive news) . I replaced the 30amp fuse in the battery compartment but still not getting voltage reading in the display inside the camper. Also replaced the 40 amp fuse inside the camper… still nothing. The inside of the 30 amp black fuse “holder” in the battery/propane compartment appeared to be “corroded “ as did the fuse I removed. Is there a method to clean the fuse holder or should I try replacing it at this point?

Bayliss

@debbie987, assuming you are comfortable with doing it, it would not hurt to replace the 30A inline fuse holder.  My concern is not that it is corrosion (although possible, if exposed to air/water), but rather that the fuse holder is fried.  The fact that your battery is showing 13.4V only reflects that the battery is OK, BUT, I am assuming that you are checking the battery voltage after it has been disconnected.  If not, disconnect the positive and negative cables, wait at least 1/2 hour (or longer), and then check the voltage level.  Let us know what the multimeter reading is.

NOTE:  Whenever removing, or reattaching wires connected to a battery, remember this simple rule:  NEGATIVE: “OFF FIRST - - ON LAST.” 

Specifically, when disconnecting the battery wires, remove the negative wire FIRST.  When reconnecting, reattach the negative wire LAST.  To remind me, I wrote that on my battery wires (see photo, below.)  Also, as you already experienced, you must be very careful not to accidentally touch metal (like a wrench) between the two battery posts.  To avoid that from happening, when removing a wire from one battery terminal, cover the other terminal with a towel, or something similar.  Repeat that when removing the other wire.  Also, after you remove a wire, push it away from the battery so that it does not inadvertently make contact with the battery terminal.

I am also curious what you are specifically referring to when you say, "but still not getting voltage reading in the display inside the camper."  Which "display" are you referring to?  The Victron (or similar) battery monitor, or the LED digital display?  Maybe provide a photo of what you are referring to.

Thanks.  

debbie987

The display in the camper, when disconnected from shore power and the battery switch is turned “on” (the switch in the propane/battery compartment) doesn’t display anything when the battery button is pressed …picture shows shore power connected.I do think the 30amp fuse case is fried… I’ll look to replace that next. 

I’ll also mark the +\- battery terminal markings better. They are the same color as the background color on the Battle Born and in the sun with shadows dancing around can easily be confused… by me anyway.🤷‍♀️