2024 Nucamp Tab 320s Water Low Point Drains to Winterize

SilverBullet100

Where is the cold and hot water, low point drain on 2024 Nucamp Tab 320s? I drained the hot water heater by opening the yellow valve on the Alde system, under the seat inside, which is connected to a blue/cold water line.  (This is the same valve I used to re-pressurize the hot water heater during the summer.) I turned a single black-handle valve behind the passenger-side wheel to drain the freshwater tank.  I see a blue tube underneath which is the freshwater tank overflow.  Is there just one "Low water drain" which drains under the Alde system to the outside (pictures 1 and 2)? I see no other tubing/drains on the underside of my teardrop.

I only see 1 yellow valve on blue tubing in Alde hot water system, at right-middle of photo.

Drain tube for Alde hot water, located underneath, next to gray water drain pipe.

Only 1 valve and 1 drain tube on passenger side, underneath, which drains the freshwater tank.

Blue freshwater overflow at top-left of photo.

pthomas745

On the driver's side of the trailer, on the rail behind the wheel.  There will be two low point drains there that look just like the fresh water tank drain on the other side.  Just squat down behind the wheel on the driver's side. Pic below is what they look like on a 2022. The larger handle is the gray tank drain handle. 

The Alde tank is drained with a combo of the Yellow Valve, and also by opening the cold water low point drain.

SilverBullet100

How did I not see those!  I feel like an idiot!  Thank you so much!!!
Now if I can just get my pump to prime so I can get RV antifreeze into the lines!

pthomas745

The "pump won't pump antifreeze" issue is a very common problem, and it comes up over and over, every cycle of winterizing and sanitizing, so don't feel too bad.

There are lots of suggestions for "fixes".  The most basic is: open up a faucet inside the trailer that allows air to escape the lines, and letting the pump actually pump.  Along with this, to help the pump, raise the container of antifreeze to a spot above the level of the city water inlet to help.  Other owners have used a funnel to fill the small section of hose to the pump before placing it in the "raised" container to help the pump get a running start.

But, generally, this process is much harder than it should be.  There are other ideas for basic drill pumps that work inline to the hose.  The "Camco Winterizing Kit" attaches directly to the pump, and eliminates most of the lifting and grunting and funneling.

The Nautilus is pretty nice, I think, except for this failed "pump antifreeze" issue.

And, please don't feel like an "anything"!  Your experience is all part of the learning curve!

SilverBullet100

Thank you so much. You are a great help.  I will try all these suggestions until I get something to work.  I had "burped" the system by turning a faucet on then off again.  I will try leaving it open while letting the pump run. Thanks again!

Binghi

I just winterized today. Here is my set-up. I elevate the antifreeze reservoir above the level of the city water connection. That way gravity helps force the antifreeze into the trailer plumbing. Makes syphoning a lot easier.

My reservoir is a 3-quart funnel that I attach to a short piece of hose using an adapter. I make sure to keep the funnel filled as I run the antifreeze into the lines.