Alternative weight distribution for 2021 T@B 400 BD

geoB

I've just recently come to believe that the dealer from whom we bought our 400 used the wrong WDH. This photo tells the tale:

Note that the spring bar is most definitely not parallel to the L bracket. The L brackets are slowly getting worn down.

The WDH is a Blue Ox TrackPro. I took the trailer to a shop specializing in trailers. The best fit solution got bar & (replacement) brackets to be parallel. But the installation is nothing like what Blue Ox shows it should be. Something new to pay attention to.

I'd like to know what would be a better, non-kludge, hitch. Suggestions?

Thanks. 

Grumpy_G

*Warning: Controversial statements below !*

Generally speaking a single axle travel trailer should not need a WDH. The 400 weighs ~3000 lbs dry with tongue weights of 350-380 lbs. Obviously ready to camp it's going to be say 500 lbs more but that's still below the typical 5000/500 lbs where manufacturers recommend a WDH. Many mid-size SUV/crossover manufacturers also state that a WDH hitch should *not* be used. For one the hitch mounts to a relatively thin unibody structure and second having that stiff connection between the trailer and the tow vehicle can unload the rear axle to the point of losing traction. If you look up the specs for various WDH you'll find there are none for a 4000 lbs trailer with 400 lbs tongue weight. The lowest rated Blue OX is for 600 lbs tongue weight, and I doubt the dealer stocks those. Do you know the rating of the hitch you have ?

In any case it looks like the frame brackets are installed wrong. Can you post a picture of the whole brackets incl the mounting to the tongue ?

Yoshi_TAB

Hi, 

When I moved up from a 320 to a 360 with my Jeep Grand Cherokee (full tow package/7200 lbs) I looked extensively into a need for a WDH.  My research told me about the 5K pound rule of thumb, but I aso found it can beneficial with tow vehicles with short wheel bases (such as JGC)  and /or if the total trailer weight is more than 1/2 of the weight of the tow vehicle.

The reason for this is a WDH has very little to do with sway (althought it does provide a side benefit) but rather it does what the name says and redistributes the weight on the tow vehicle from the rear of the tow vehicle to the front.  

What happens, if the combo is not correct and you are getting a pull down in the rear of the tow vehicle to the point where it removes the designed weight off the front wheels, which  leads to poor contact of the front wheels on the ground resulting in driving issues, most likely in wet or snowy conditions.  The  photo below is a bit extreme, but gets the point across.  It essentially "levels" the tow vehicle back to front.  It is more often not visable to the eye.

When I went to pick our 360 up, I talked to our dealer who only sells small trailers and he highly recommended it which "sealed the deal" for me in getting one (which he installed while I picked up the 360)  I also talked to other "trailer experts".  I checked on a bunch of JGC forums and they also agreed it  would be of benefit.

I went with the Anderson WDH which does not use a tension bar, but chains.  It is very easy to get on/off.  Takes about an additional 2-3 minutes with no tools needed.   Weight Distribution Hitch w/ Sway Control | Andersen Hitches

It's the same debate for the use of a sway bar...you think you will never need it, but there may be that one set of road/tow conditions that the added safety device will be of benefit.  There is no harm, other than if your tow vehicle prohibits the use (you should look at your specific vehicle and not generalize) and it will  provide  better driveability and peace of mind.

Drive/Tow On!

rickpool

@Yoshi_TAB - Thanks for your insights on this.  I am looking to purchase one for my T@B 360 and Kia Telluride.  Although rated for 5000/500 lbs, it sags quite a bit while towing .  Did you purchase and install the Andersen model yourself, or did you have the dealer do it?  Just checking on how easy/safe it would be to install myself…. Thanks!

Horigan

I suggest buying the hitch from a local dealer since the installation requires assembling the hitch with torque values of ~250 ft-lbs.  I bought my Fastaway E2 hitch online, then had to pay a local dealer more that what I saved to attach the adjustable ball mount, which I did twice to dial in the sag.  

The Fastaway looks a lot like the Blue Ox you have and I don't understand why the L-bracket is not vertical.  A further out picture would help us understand that.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA94-00-0600.html

We bought the WDH primarily for the sway control it provides, which the Highlander manual mandates when towing over 2000 lbs.  We do like the improved ride and the reduced raising of our headlight beams when towing.  

Yoshi_TAB

Hi  @rickpool

I did not install it myself as our TAB dealer had them and we had him do it when we picked our 360 up.  I'd suggest maybe looking at the installation instructions and judge it.  It is not that difficult.  Torque values are about 150 ft-lbs on the receiver bracket and 75-90 ft-lbs. on trailer frame bracket.

One thing if you are getting the Anderson, the online manual says you cannot remove more than 2 links of the chain to shorten it, the manual that came with my model, #3324 , says up to 5 links can be removed.  I recently contacted Anderson because of the discrepancy, and they said you can remove up to 5 links as long as the distance from the center of trailer coupler (where ball sits) and brackets are at least 25".  That distance on my 360 is 25 1/2"