I believe I have a bad/compromised connection near the black junction box on the underside of my 2021 T@B 320S.
Twice now (since returning from my last trip on some very rough roads) I've noticed that my batteries were not charging (via shore connection or solar).
After ensuring that all my battery connections are secure, I crawled under the camper. In both cases, after I 'wiggled' the wires coming out of the junction box, it started charging again.
I've now removed my batteries and covered my camper for the winter, but in the spring I will pull the cover off of that junction box.
I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and if there is any advice as to how to disassemble the box.
Thank you in advance.
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Comments
Since you only mentioned an issue with shore power and solar, I'm not certain that the battery connection itself is the issue, but I'm thinking it is, because the converter "converts" AC power to DC power to charge the battery and supply power to the DC systems in the trailer. Additionally, a bad connection at the J-Box is not likely to be causing an issue with the AC power. On the other hand, it may be a loose ground connection at the J-Box.
You may just have a loose terminal nut that needs to be tightened down, a damaged wire to/from the terminal(s), or a bit of corrosion at one of the J-Box terminals. If corrosion, you will want to clean that off the involved terminal(s) and maybe apply a very light coat of dielectric grease (such as "CRC") to the terminal(s), before replacing the terminal nut(s). Specifically take a look at Terminal #6 (12V+) and Terminal #7 (12V-). If you search "J-box" or "Junction Box" using the search box at the top of the Forum page, you will likely find discussions about troubleshooting those connections, or other suggestions.
IMPORTANT: Before removing any nuts from the J-Box terminals, open the J-Box cover and wiggle the wires near those two terminals to see what happens, and which wire is likely involved. Do that with only the 12V battery connected, and the disconnect switch "ON" so you know you have a connection to the battery. Leave the 120V shore power and tow vehicle 7-pin cord disconnected. Depending on what you find, before you remove any terminal nuts and/or wires, and before retightening the nuts and applying the dielectric grease, be sure to disconnect ALL power to the trailer so you don't get zapped. Once the electrical connections are re-tightened, reconnect your battery and see if that fixes the issue.
Another test, which you may actually want to do first, is to leave the trailer battery connected (with disconnect switch "ON"), shore power disconnected, but also connect the tow vehicle 7-pin cord and turn the tow vehicle ignition "ON". Wiggle the J-Box wires and see if you make a similar finding when moving the wire(s).
NOTE: If you have made any electrical changes to your T@B, your wire connections between the battery and the J-Box may be slightly different, so keep that in mind.
Good luck!
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(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePO4; Solar: Renogy 220W Portable Suitcase w/ Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 Controller; Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor w/ Shunt; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
I'll do my studying over the winter so I can start checking things out in early spring. Thanks again!
2022 NuCamp T@B 320S Boondock
2023 Volkswagen ID.4 Pro S Plus AWD