Drilling precautions for outer skin

Yoshi_TAB

Hi,

I'm looking to mount a camera on the rear of our camper (360CS).  It will require drilling a couple of new holes.

It will replace of one of the upper rear lights, to access power, but the mounting holes for the existing rear light do not match the new holes required.  

Is there any concern or special techniques to drill into the outer skin that others have taken to prevent cracking while drilling or long-term issues.

Obviously NuCamp drills many holes to mount items, so it is done.  Caulk will be placed to seal openings.

Thank you

GBL_citruscountyfl

It's plastic, just use a regular twist bit, and not a spade bit.  

Horigan

@Yoshi_TAB
I suspect those upper lights are mounted to the frame skeleton, not just the aluminum skin.  Easy enough to confirm by removing one of the screws.  I suspect they are mounted to a horizontal section of the skeleton.  You may be able to press on the skin near to lights to confirm the frame direction.

Note that trailers 80 inches or wider require a horizontal cluster of three red rear identification lamps, centered and spaced 6 to 12 inches apart... 

AnOldUR

From my experience, for holes in plastics and thin aluminum less than 1/4" diameter, a twist drill can work well. For larger holes, a spade drill will give you a cleaner, rounder hole. With no helical flutes, they have less tendency to grab and pull as they break through. The piloting point and spurs will work to your advantage. In any case, putting painters tape over the hole location will help reduce chipping. 

Yoshi_TAB

tks for the input ...my main concern was for creating an expanding crack or tear (not sure how brittle the outside layer is) in the very outer layer during the drilling process.  I do use painters tape over wood and know that it helps.  It will be a small hole less than 1/4" (4 each)

Yoshi_TAB

Horigan said:

@Yoshi_TAB
I suspect those upper lights are mounted to the frame skeleton, not just the aluminum skin.  Easy enough to confirm by removing one of the screws.  I suspect they are mounted to a horizontal section of the skeleton.  You may be able to press on the skin near to lights to confirm the frame direction.

Note that trailers 80 inches or wider require a horizontal cluster of three red rear identification lamps, centered and spaced 6 to 12 inches apart... 

Hi,

 Missed this in your post...the roof is aluminum and not fiberglass...correct?

So that eliminates my concern.  I will remove a light and confirm it goes into the frame skeleton for support.

(They make a camera with a red light.)

AnOldUR

Since that's right at where the clam shell is hinged, I'd bet that you'll hit the frames cross member. 

Have you considered a suction cup mount just above the running light? You could still steal power from the light. I mounted a camera high on the roof of our 320 so that, along with seeing traffic behind, I could keep an eye on the stuff on the roof rack. 

note the tether so that I won't loose it if the suction fails
(hasn't in thousands of miles)

Horigan

Yoshi_TAB said:

 Missed this in your post...the roof is aluminum and not fiberglass...correct?

So that eliminates my concern.  I will remove a light and confirm it goes into the frame skeleton for support.

(They make a camera with a red light.)

The roof is aluminum sheet.  That's excellent that the camera includes a light.  Hopefully the power draw for the camera is in line with the light...

AnOldUR

Yoshi_TAB said:

(They make a camera with a red light.)

Is that a running light with a camera built in or infrared for night vision?

Link to it if it's a running light? Sound interesting.

Yoshi_TAB

Both Furion and Haloview make them.  Here is the Haloview model.  Amazon.com: Haloview Byte Tango 1080P HD Wireless Observation Backup Camera System with Marker Light SBT7R : Electronics