I have read through these posts very carefully, but I still can't figure out the whole reverse polarity thing. I have the Renogy 100W suitcase (12 awg) and also a 20-ft. 12 gauge extensions cord. I've ordered a 2-pin sae connector cable that I can use to splice to the cable once I have lopped off the alligator clamps, but I still don't understand where and how a reverse polarity plug figures in all of this.After looking for reverse polarity plugs on amazon I don't even see how anything there is compatible with the 2-pin connector. This is all a very foreign subject for me but I really want to get it right! Thanks for any help.
McKinleyville, CA T@b S Max Subaru Outback "Poppy"
ZTab, I took the time to take the battery cover off, and the ZAMP 2-pin sae connector is wired reverse polarity. The connector I bought is on Amazon, I will look,and give you the info! You are on the right track though, I'll try to help!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Ok, ZTab, Here's the info: Optimate cable 0-27 adapter, polarity, sae [this is a double ended 2-pin sae connector, this will go into the ZAMP plug, and connect to your 2-pin sae connector for the reverse polarity]. The other thing, you didn't mention, and I don't know if you already have or not, is a Renogy 10a MC4 Waterproof In-line fuse holder w/ fuse. You can put this in-line with your existing cable, and the extension cable on the positive side with the MC4 connectors. If you have any more questions, please ask!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
I think the term "reverse polarity" creates an element of confusion. It implies you are criss-crossing your + and - leads, which you are not doing and do not want to do. What you do want to do is figure out which wire runs to which pin on your SAE connectors, and make your modifications accordingly.
What I've gathered from older threads is that Zamp swaps the + and - leads on their plug port relative to the "typical" way SAE connectors are set up. This apparently unusual Zamp arrangement creates unwarranted stress about how to modify other types of panels.
Just keep track of which wires are + and which are - and you will be fine!
ericnliz, there is an inline fuse on the cable that leads to the alligator clips. The inline fuse is on the positive red wire. Do Ineed another one and if so how do I connect it?
McKinleyville, CA T@b S Max Subaru Outback "Poppy"
ScottG, You are correct in the statement you made about criss-crossing the wires. I took the Zamp plug-in out of the trailer, unwound the wires, followed them to the battery, and they are in fact reversed. The Optimate cable I gave ZTab info for allows you to simply plug in to the Zamp 2pin SAE connector on the trailer, and plug a regular 2pin SAE connector to it. This plug-in just allows you to not have to make any more modifications.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
ZTab, If you take the MC4 connectors apart to the alligator clips, you should have the same connectors on your extension cables. The above mentioned Renogy 10amp MC4 Waterproof In-line fuse holder w/fuse has these connectors on either end, and simply plugs in on the positive cable. If you go to Amazon, you can see the picture, and it will be pretty self-explanatory.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Thanks so much for all of the solar panel help. As soon as all of these parts come, I should be ready to roll for our trip to Glacier at the end of the month!
McKinleyville, CA T@b S Max Subaru Outback "Poppy"
I hate to re-open this thread, but...I'm going to. I have a Renogy 100 watt panel, a controller, and a small AGM battery and an inverter. I've used this combo for several years while tent camping for basic battery charging and laptops and small jobs. I've read through the thread, and understand the connectors I need...but I get lost when I try to map out the wiring. I remember the famous New Yorker cartoon with the two scientists examining a complex formula with one of the factors being "Then A Miracle Occurs" right in the middle. Here is what I think I need to do:
First, purchase the Optimate cable that was linked in this thread.
Renogy solar panel wired correctly to the charge controller.
And, here is where the miracles start to occur for me.
Do I cut one end of the Optimate cable off, and correctly install the wires into the charge controller?
And the other end of the Optimate cable then connects into the Zamp connector on my Outback? And that will satisfy the Zamp system in the Tab?
Or am I missing something obvious? I know the info is in this thread, but I can't picture it.
pthomas745, My controller is attached to my solar panels, not inside the battery/propane compartment. Others have installed theirs inside the compartment, so help should be on the way.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
... And the other end of the Optimate cable then connects into the Zamp connector on my Outback? And that will satisfy the Zamp system in the Tab? ...
There really is no Zamp "system" in the T@B--it's nothing more than a couple wires runing from the battery terminals to a garden variety SAE connector mounted in the side of tub. The challenge seems to be getting the polarity correct on any non-Zamp cable you want to use (including something you build yourself).
Is your controller on the panels, or in the tub? That will have an impact on how you wire things up.
ScottG, First, thanks for replying so fast! You helped me a lot with my panels. The SAE connector on the side of the tub is actually wired positive to negative [on the connection to the battery], and negative to positive. I know this because I removed it, and traced the wires from the SAE plug to the battery. the Optimate cable simply plugs in to the wires from the solar panel cables to the SAE connector to "correct" this situation. If I read pthomas745 correctly, he is wanting to install the controller in to the tub itself, and his question I believe is how to hook up from the battery to the controller, then to the Renogy solar panel. Since my controller is inside my "suitcase for my panels, I can not guide him as to the installation he is requesting. It doesn't sound hard, I just do not have the expertise to guide him. If you can help, please do. Both you and source3 helped me tremendously in my installation, and everything works great. Thanks again for chiming in!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Thanks for the help! My solar controller is a separate piece of gear, not hardwired onto the panel. I didn't plan to have it inside the tub, at least not at this point. I'm sorry if I led the conversation that way. And thanks for the correction on the "Zamp System". So, to recap:
My solar panel is correctly wired into my solar controller.
Do I cut one end of the Optimate cable off, and correctly install the wires into the charge controller that go to the battery?
And
the other end of the Optimate cable then connects into the SAE
connector on my Outback? And that will satisfy the battery wiring system in the
Tab?
I know I can go from my current setup direct to the Tab's battery but I would prefer the more elegant SAE connection.
@pthomas745, what you describe is essentially what I did--I cut off the battery clamps that came with my Renogy suitcase, and replaced them with an SAE connector cut from one end of a 12" SAE extension cable. You could theoretically do the same thing with your Optimate, though it is so short you may have a difficult time making a good splice to the cable that runs back to your charge controller.
It bears repeating that the polarity of the plug you install has to match the polarity of the Zamp socket on the tub. As ericnliz described, the Zamp port may be wired differently from other non-Zamp SAE connections. You will need to assess your own system and construct your cable accordingly. It's not as difficult as it sounds--if you scroll up to my post of May 23, I discuss this in more detail.
I heartily agree with you that adapting the Renogy system to work with the existing Zamp port is far better than futzing with battery clamps or other direct connections!
Ok, after noodling around all afternoon on the interwebs, I got the picture. I will say that everything I needed is in this thread, but I couldn't see it. Then I found this by @Michigan_Mike over on the Little Guy forums:
In that post, Mr Mike describes, with pictures and descriptions, the inputs on the "Zamp" battery connection on the T@B. There are safety reasons for having the "positive" lead be inside the plastic SAE connector cable, and not exposed as bare metal. (It seems to me the only thing that is "reverse polarity" here is our expectations, since we would assume that the "male" metal plug must be the "positive." )
Once I read that post, I came back and examined this thread, it all made sense.
You got it, @pthomas745! Thanks for the followup (and the reminder about Mike's excellent explanation).
I guess when I modified my Renogy system to work with the existing Zamp port, I didn't have any expectations about which pin was which. It seemed simple enough to just trace the wires and make my connections appropriately, so that's what I did!
pthomas745, Now that you're all charged up, you'll love it! I'm tellin' 'ya, if you have a problem here, post it & help soon arrives. Thanks again to ScottG, and Michigan_Mike, you guys always seem to come through!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Comments
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
What I've gathered from older threads is that Zamp swaps the + and - leads on their plug port relative to the "typical" way SAE connectors are set up. This apparently unusual Zamp arrangement creates unwarranted stress about how to modify other types of panels.
Just keep track of which wires are + and which are - and you will be fine!
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
First, purchase the Optimate cable that was linked in this thread.
Renogy solar panel wired correctly to the charge controller.
And, here is where the miracles start to occur for me.
Do I cut one end of the Optimate cable off, and correctly install the wires into the charge controller?
And the other end of the Optimate cable then connects into the Zamp connector on my Outback? And that will satisfy the Zamp system in the Tab?
Or am I missing something obvious? I know the info is in this thread, but I can't picture it.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
There really is no Zamp "system" in the T@B--it's nothing more than a couple wires runing from the battery terminals to a garden variety SAE connector mounted in the side of tub. The challenge seems to be getting the polarity correct on any non-Zamp cable you want to use (including something you build yourself).
Is your controller on the panels, or in the tub? That will have an impact on how you wire things up.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
So, to recap:
My solar panel is correctly wired into my solar controller.
I have this "reverse polarity SAE cable:"
https://www.amazon.com/OptiMate-CABLE-27-Adapter-polarity/dp/B00AHCWGOO
Do I cut one end of the Optimate cable off, and correctly install the wires into the charge controller that go to the battery?
And the other end of the Optimate cable then connects into the SAE connector on my Outback? And that will satisfy the battery wiring system in the Tab?
I know I can go from my current setup direct to the Tab's battery but I would prefer the more elegant SAE connection.
It bears repeating that the polarity of the plug you install has to match the polarity of the Zamp socket on the tub. As ericnliz described, the Zamp port may be wired differently from other non-Zamp SAE connections. You will need to assess your own system and construct your cable accordingly. It's not as difficult as it sounds--if you scroll up to my post of May 23, I discuss this in more detail.
I heartily agree with you that adapting the Renogy system to work with the existing Zamp port is far better than futzing with battery clamps or other direct connections!
http://littleguy.vanillaforums.com/discussion/4885/zamp-solar-panel-connections-explained
In that post, Mr Mike describes, with pictures and descriptions, the inputs on the "Zamp" battery connection on the T@B. There are safety reasons for having the "positive" lead be inside the plastic SAE connector cable, and not exposed as bare metal. (It seems to me the only thing that is "reverse polarity" here is our expectations, since we would assume that the "male" metal plug must be the "positive." )
Once I read that post, I came back and examined this thread, it all made sense.
Thanks again for all your help with this.
I guess when I modified my Renogy system to work with the existing Zamp port, I didn't have any expectations about which pin was which. It seemed simple enough to just trace the wires and make my connections appropriately, so that's what I did!
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf