I have done a search and not found anyone with this issue. We took our new 2016 T@B on its maiden voyage in October. We used the 12V USB ports to charge our iPhone 6SEs, an iPad 2 and an iPad 4 mini. Early in the trip, the first iPhone failed, the battery would no longer charge unless it was completely powered off, and then it VERY rapidly lost the charge. Apple replaced it in Denver and right away that battery failed in the same way. Eventually the other iPhone battery failed as well. We have now figured out that the iPad 2 will only charge when it is completely powered down, though it will hold a charge. The iPad 4 mini seems ok. We have tested all of our cords and they seem fine. The only thing that was different is that we were living in and charging in the T@B. Has anyone had this experience, or do any of you have any ideas as to what is going on? Wiring problem in the USB port? Thanks!
1 ·
Comments
I suppose it could be a bad USB outlet - Have you tried using a cigarette lighter adapter in either the above sink or bench outlets to see if that makes a difference?
I have no problem charging my iPad, iPods, and iPhone 6S+ in the T@B, although I can only charge the iPad from the only factory installed a USB port over the sink.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
M@bel M@y, my 2017 T@B Outback Max S (silver w/black trim), towed by Maude Myrtle, my 2016 Jeep Rubicon Hardrock.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Hey @KYkampers, have you solved the problem?
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
To the electrical wizard people on here, I'm going to need some help helping @KYkampers if we need to actually test the USB. Like how many volts should be there at the USB side, etc, please.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Specifications
This seems like a good explanation how. https://youtu.be/mA3xgob404o
Easiest and safest thing is to strip a USB cable as shown in the video.
I've seen some crazy things happen during my career with the power company and know that computer related/electronic devices are one of the most sensitive pieces of equipment and failure is eminent during a voltage surge during storm related conditions, via lightning strikes, ground related situations, or when voltage is induced across common grounds or the loss of a ground on a circuit, etc. But with that said, I would also expect other similar devices in the trailer to be affected similarly (e.g., the TV/DVD/Stereo, etc.) if there was a bad ground connection and you might experience instances lets say of blinking lights, bright or dim/flickering lighting conditions, etc.
I know this is a lot of information but unless something is quite obvious it may even be something inside your home, and either way I would be looking at and monitoring the voltage both inside the trailer and in your home if you cannot pin down exactly when these failures might have occurred (when plugged into a campground circuit, while boondocking, while plugged into your home, etc.). The electric converter inside the trailer and even the Alde unit would be suspect and items that I'd check as well since these items could create an issue if one of them were to fail.
I had some issues with my new Silverado pickup truck and was experiencing many episodes of the vehicles warning bell going off while towing the trailer and had to painstakingly check all circuits, isolate devices within the trailer, tighten connections, check grounds, etc. Electrical circuits can create strange happenings and if you are not familiar with troubleshooting electric circuits you might want to have someone who is familiar do some checking for you.
I'd first make sure that the converter is putting out nominal 12v. Check voltage with one of those doohickeys that plug into a 12v outlet, or use a multimeter (careful not to short the leads together or you'll pop a fuse.) Check the 12v outlet that is part of your charging station.
I assume you were trying to charge using one of the USB outlets (and not an Apple charger plugged into a 120v outlet.) Use an old USB charging cable and make a test lead as shown in the video I posted. Use the multimeter to make sure the red and black wires show 5v, and that the polarity is correct. (black = common, red = 5v.)
Unfortunately none of this tests whether the outlets are supplying the correct amount of current. In my case, one of the USB outlets that came in my T@B was defective. One of our phones complained that it couldn't charge, and the other looked like it was charging, but it wasn't. I only left the phones plugged in long enough to know they weren't charging. It's not really possible that the current could be too high, as that is determined by the devices you plug in themselves.
I know there are some temperature and other constraints for iDevices. This article has some helpful info. http://www.apple.com/batteries/maximizing-performance/
Who did you talk to at Apple? A local Genius or someone at Apple Support?
We will check out the article and do some testing and let you all know how we do. Thanks again!