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Leveling help/ air conditioner drip/ refrigerator

Okay...I did read A LOT of the paperwork I was given from the previous owner about my 2015 TAB S MAXX...love it...However---it seems I am learning lots thru trial and error...  :( oh well.  
1st if on a slight incline are there tips, tricks or tools someone can suggest please?  Stabilizers aren't really "levelers" I gather.  I ask because I slept with a garbage can in bed with me because the air conditioner was dripping from the housing---after turned off and fridge quit working....  HELP!

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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    @Lizczerewaty, Wow. Couple of questions:
    Do you have a level you can check the level of your trailer with? ( if not, plan to get one & leave it in the trailer, or at least, handy )
    Is your trailer un-level front to back, or side to side?
    You can ( usually ) correct level front to back by using the tongue jack in conjunction with the stabilizers if it not too much of a difference front to back. Simply lower/raise the jack until you reach level, then use the stabilizers to "hold" it in that position. Side to side is a different story. you can use blocks, an Anderson leveler (which we use), or a BAL leveler. At any rate, plan to get levelers. When leveling ours, I do side- to-side first, then front to back. I've found this to be the quickest, and easiest method.
    Couple of things on the A/C drip. you would have to be pretty un-level for it to drip, unless the drain is clogged, which is towards the front of the trailer under the A/C unit, which requires removal of the unit to check for a clog. 
    As far as your fridge, what mode were you using when it quit? The fridge can be pretty finicky when not level (especially on propane).
    If you're trailer is way out of level, it could cause both of the things you describe to happen. I would try leveling first, and see if it solves both problems. If not, please report back & we'll see if we can help you out! 
    Please let us know one way, or the other. Good luck.
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    edited April 2017
    You first need to level the trailer side to side using the product of your choice. There has been much discussion here on the relative advantages of each product. We use simple plastic blocks.

    Next you level front to back using the jack on the tongue. A one foot carpenter's level or a smartphone app will help in both these steps. Different people use different places but we have had good success by placing the carpenter's level on the floor in front of the fridge.

    Only after these steps have been done and the trailer is level then you should put the stabilizers down. We crank them down until they touch the ground and then give them just a quarter turn or so so they're firmly on the ground.

    Hope this helps. As a side effect your fridge will probably work better.
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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    LizczerewatyLizczerewaty Member Posts: 7
    Thank you both...didn't really think the leveling was such a big item.  Now I know.  We were off level enough that water did not drain out of the shower towards the left of the drain.  I will have to remove the air conditioner-see where the drain plug is for the a/c.  The refrigerator was hooked up to park a/c.  Cooled for awhile then went to plain warm.  Address the a/c first then the fridge---maybe propane would be better.  Doesn't seem to be many good things said about these Norcold refrigerators.  Thanks for all your help!
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    @Lizczerewaty, As far as the fridge goes, check your breaker panel ( black box by the floor on the driver's side lower portion of the seat) to see if the breaker flipped. There is also a fuse for the fridge inside there as well. Also check the "plug in" under the sink in the top cupboard on the passenger side in the back to make sure it's plugged all the way in. What position did you have the temp setting at? Usually 3/12 to 4 works best. The fridge usually works REALLY well on shore power, and propane, 12v, not so much, and it has a pretty strong drain on the battery as well. Hope this helps. 
    FYI: Go to the right hand Category list, scroll down to User Manuals/PDF Files, and check out Fuses For Newbies. A LOT of good info to help familiarize yourself with there! ;)

    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    Our fridge works great. Just level the trailer and try again. The specs ate less than 3 degrees front to back and less than 6 degrees side to side. That's pretty level!


    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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    Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,357

    Here is the location of the A/C drain.  Note you can get at it from behind the mirror in the bathroom if needed (see the round top of the opening behind the drip pan).

    2016 Outback 320 with a 2010 Ford Expedition.
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    ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    Thanks for the info, and photo @OutbackAZ!
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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    Z_GZ_G Member Posts: 38
    To put 6deg side to side...3deg front post to wheels in perspective ...roughly speaking  level is tan (6deg or 3deg)=rise/run... or rise the amount in inches off level ... run is width or distance from jack post to center axle of trailer... roughly speaking it's about half a foot rise for either calculation... you can lay a board or stick on make it level... and see the height it is off ground where u intend to park... gauge a rough drop and if u can get under that 6" to precise level u should be fine ... u need to have an idea of the adjustment needed before you put the stabilizers down... u can also do the golfer trick and lay down a guestimate looking at the lie of your trailer....otherwise stated u have about half a foot of error in trying to level it well enough 
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    PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    edited April 2017


    Z_G said:


    To put 6deg side to side...3deg front post to wheels in perspective ...roughly speaking  level is tan (6deg or 3deg)=rise/run... or rise the amount in inches off level ... run is width or distance from jack post to center axle of trailer... roughly speaking it's about half a foot rise for either calculation... you can lay a board or stick on make it level... and see the height it is off ground where u intend to park... gauge a rough drop and if u can get under that 6" to precise level u should be fine ... u need to have an idea of the adjustment needed before you put the stabilizers down... u can also do the golfer trick and lay down a guestimate looking at the lie of your trailer....otherwise stated u have about half a foot of error in trying to level it well enough 




    LOL I know math but I don't know golf and I just get the bubble smack in the middle of the level's window.
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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    Z_GZ_G Member Posts: 38
    Well unless the level is sitting in the middle of the refrigerator or ac... just means the level is level
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    LizczerewatyLizczerewaty Member Posts: 7
    Thanks all!  Really appreciate your help!
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    LizczerewatyLizczerewaty Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Boo!  Going to work on this!  Great suggestion.
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