Hi all.
Winter is on the horizon and we are winterizing the T@B . We don't have any water issues to deal with since we haven't yet used the sink and plumbing system. But, I have a question about extending battery life and LP gas alarm life. The gas is turned off so there is no need to use the LP gas alarm. I was looking at disconnecting the battery and just going to shore power. I would use the shore power and the 110 outlet in the trailer to run an electrical heater intermittently to dry out the T@B (with the roof vent open to circulate any moisture laden air outside. Does anyone see any issue with this? Should I monthly connect the battery and let it recharge via shore power? Any other suggestions on keeping the trailer relatively dry through the winter? (We live in the Seattle area).
Comments
CaptRon-I live in the Seattle area as well! The 2015 T@b has a 'smart' charger. So just plug in with your power cord and she will 'float' the battery around 13.15 volts. I believe if you plug in a heater once in a while and it doesn't get below freezing for too many days, we may be able to manage the winter. Still researching. What sort of travel plans do you have for 2015? Diana
Hey Diana
I live in Kent, west hill by I-5 / 272nd. So yours is a new one. Mine is a 2007 purchased in September from a couple in Portland. (See attached picture, I hope) Did you buy your T@B from Apache RV in Tacoma in early September? If you did, I saw that one just before is was picked up at the dealership.
I just bought a new LP gas alarm (Atwood Series 2001) that runs off the battery. These alarms have a limited life and its operation requires that I reset the alarm once every week. So, I didn't want to run the alarm through the winter if I wasn't going to use the trailer. Thus the reason to disconnect the battery. Maybe I'll just disconnect the alarm and keep the battery connected to shore power.
I haven't seen many T@B's here in the Northwest. From internet research, they appear to be more prevalent in the East. I did see one pass me on the freeway coming back from the coast between Aberdeen and Olympia.
Future travel plans are more spur-of-the-moment since we just retired. It's nice not having to plan around work schedules. Hope to get down to Utah next year. Maybe over to Glacier National Park. Definitely going to state parks in Washington and Oregon. Maybe we should have a gathering of T@B owners at Ocean Shores or Fort Flagler by Port Townsend?
Thank you so much for your response! I just discovered your post this evening as I've had some computer issues earlier this week. Yes, I'm gathering that there is a much larger contingency of T@bsters on the east coast and the Midwest. Have you joined the Facebook T@b Trailer gr'oup? It's nice to see what everyone is doing but again, most folks are camping in the east. I understand about retirement, I think that's why it's hard to coordinate a 'rally' is it's hard to organize and make the commitment so far out. I have reservations for 2015 at Fort Worden (for the Wooden Boat Festival) on Sept 11-13th #78 also at Deception Pass on April 24th - 26th, that one is actually for an RPod Rally. I feel like the step mom, but I have a friend who owns an RPod and it's a lot of fun. In between I'm hoping to make a trip in May or June down the Oregon coast to LA, then northeast up to Utah, Montana and then home on 90. I have friends and family along the way. That one is still in the planning stages! My name is Diana Barker, if you wish to friend me on Facebook. My T@by is next to my house, I did buy the cover and hope to figure out the winterizing. So many conflicting stories. I will drain and blow out all the water from the lines then keep it heated. Have you put yours away for the season?
Look forward to meeting you and your partner on the trail one day!
Diana
If it were me I would pull the fuse in the battery and eliminate draining it. I like to charge up my batteries in the fall (on all my lawn equipment, boats, trailer, etc.) for the winter and that has worked well for me throughout the years. I would not leave the trailer plugged into shore power as that is a remedy for problems down the road. You are better off buying and using a good battery tender as although you "can" use the electric converter in the trailer to charge up and float the charge, long term plug-in of the converter probably isn't a good thing, nor does the factory recommend it. I use a small digital DC volt meter with the cigarette style plug-in end to monitor the voltage in my trailer and it is a good indicator for me when I need to charge it up as I do have a few items that slowly drain the charge. It's also normal for any battery to lose a charge over time too on its own, so don't be alarmed if you notice this. Batteries are fickle and react differently in both hot and cold environments, so it's important to know what affects them and how to maintain them.... I would crack the vent a notch too, to keep it aired out and not trapping in moisture as this can create mold. And as Jim noted, there are things available to capture moisture.
Here is a link that has some good, helpful information - Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batteries
Here is some information I found regarding RV maintenance and moisture:
Moisture & Your RV - How to keep it out!
Your RV’s worst enemy is moisture. The good news as there is things to do to prevent moisture, mold and mildew from occurring in your unit while you have it winterized. Once a week open the windows and doors, let your unit breathe throughout. Open the cupboards, closets and the fridge , don’t let the air become stagnant. You can use moisture – preventing beads, just put them on your table and they will absorb all the moisture in the air. Contrary to popular belief, putting a tarp over the roof of your unit is the worst thing you can do. It only traps moisture against the surface of the roof, which can cause rot. A covered dry area is ideal to store your RV under.
MAXXAIR COVERS
A MAXXAIR COVER fits over a regular size vent cover and allows ventilation during the winter months without the worry of rain getting in. These covers are easy for the “Do - it -yourselfer “and no extra holes are required in the roof. If you have a power fan then there is a proper Maxxair cover to fit this to allow maximum operation of your fan.
DRY AIR CRYSTALS
Dry Air Crystals are an inexpensive way to remove moisture from the air inside the RV during winter months. The container has a strainer dish on the top and a container on the bottom to collect the moisture. The crystals sit in the dish in a crystal form and they draw moisture out of the air and drip into a liquid form. You will need to check these crystals about every month to see if they need to be refilled. You will need one container for every 12 ‘of unit approximately.
STOR DRY
Stor dry is an 110V container that removes moisture from your RV. It takes the cool damp air in through the bottom and blows the warm dry air out through the top. This system does not need to be checked every month but does require 110v power.
Please feel free to contact us with any more questions about moisture or winterizing your RV !
DD
Also, Look for an upcoming announcement about the 8th Annual PacNW Tabbers/Taddaer/Glampers Rally the weekend on May 29th. It will be in Washington this year, probably somewhere midway between Portland & Seattle. Great time with trailer tours (lots of ideas), potluck, talent show, craft beer & wine and more.
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!