2017 Outback Storage and Sewer Hose Mods

DaveC

First, thanks to the forum for great ideas.

Like everyone, I was searching for a sewer hose storage solution.  I added an expanding storage tube to the bottom of the Yakama tracks, giving me a 65 inch tube.  I wanted to move the crossbars up a few inches, but found that the factory installed lower towers are screwed into the trailer and can't be moved.  I think this because the vertical installation would slip using the Yakama nut plates.  I used the extra nut plates and shorter socket screws on the top of the holder and added a screw through the track endcap and sealed it with silicon.  I got the 20' Rhino kit and cut about 4' off one of the 10' sections.  (I don't know if the 15' Rhino with a different connector will fit inside the tube.  If so, that would be easier.)



Next, the DeWalt toolbox.  I ordered the taller one, which won't allow the lid to open all the way, but I can get tools, electrical cable and water hose in and out.  The advantage of the tall box is that the lid is above the back of the Outback tube, so the box can be mounted flush with the tube using U bolts. This means the box can't be unbolted when the box is locked.  I added two bolts with large washers on the bottom for stability.


Lastly, I used a river rafting strap to attach a 7.5 gallon water jug.  I was going to use two smaller jugs to make filling the trailer easier, then I realized that if I put the jug on top of the propane box, I can use a short tube to fill the trailer with no lifting.
Thanks again for all the ideas!

Dave28

Great Modifications Dave!   Could you please take a few pics that will show how you mounted the DeWalt toolbox to the deck.  Thank you!

DaveC

I placed the U bolts on the ribs on the outside of the DeWalt Box.  I put two bolts in the bottom of the box with large washers and spacers so there wasn't any pressure pulling down the bottom of the plastic box.  Alternatively, you could put another u bolt toward the bottom of the platform back with a spacer between the tube and box.  Good luck, Dave

Dave28

Thank you Sir! Great photos.  Very helpful.

4ncar

This is the EXACT same box I have! lol.  I used 4 carriage bolts & fender washers bolting it to the platform, and not the U bolts.  It's bomber!

pthomas745

@DaveC, can I ask a few questions about your rack mount sewer holder?

My Tab is parked at a friend's house and I can't get a picture in my head of the size of the Yakima crossbar mount slots.
Are these the correct anchor plates?
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Yakima/Y8810074.html

Can you tell this hardware challenged guy the size the socket screw?
"and shorter socket screws on the top of the holder"

I'm assuming here:  the anchor plates go in the slot, and then are locked down by the socket screws? If the anchor plates have a .02 inch hole, that would be the right diameter screw, correct?


And this one? 
 "and added a screw through the track endcap"

Thank you very much.  I could mount this with various types of straps but I like the clean looking solution you have here.

DaveC

@pthomas745, plate looks right, but I would check the Yakama site to be sure.  I got 2 plates in the Yakama box with my new outback, and needed shorter socket screws to be able to tighten the plate.  My trailer is in storage, so I can't tell you the length.  I seem to remember they were metric, but can't be sure.  I had to add the screw (right side of my picture) to the bottom because the lower Yakima towers were screwed into the track with one plate, so the tower could not be moved.  If you can move the towers higher, you could use 2 plates for the sewer holder.  I think they screwed it in because the steep angle would cause the tower to shift.  My Outback is 2017.  Might check with the factory to see when they started using screws on the lower tower.

pthomas745

Thanks very much.  I have the same problem:  trailer stored somewhere else, and when I need to get really specific on something.....I can't.  But, I was able to figure out what socket screws were...I know what they looked like, but not what they were called.  Thanks for the help, I'm on my way to figuring it out.

SeeHeartley

Really like how you’ve done this with the hose storage mount @DaveC.  I’m going to try a similar installation.  Do you recall, was this the 64” hose carrier or the adjustable...64” seems perfect but I want to make sure I have enough wiggle room to reach the racks.

jgram2

Hi there @SeeHeartley! Welcome to the forum! In reading his initial post above, it seems @DaveC used an expandable tube to achieve a length of 65 inches? Maybe he’ll pop back in here and confirm that. I’ve always admired this hose storage solution too, then I look at Verna’s on the passenger side of the hitch frame and like that for it’s ease-pull out the hose, dropping it down and roll right over to the tank outlets. Then there’s, well, you know, a BUNCH of others. Paralyzed by choices, we continue using a 5 gallon bucket, not nearly as elegant. 

SeeHeartley

You are absolutely right, @Twojgrams,  the information I needed was hidden in plain sight. I looked at the picture and couldn’t see the seam I expected for the axpandable tube. Thanks for the welcome!  Now I’ll have to go back and look at Verna’s solution and start the debate all over. 

CincyKid

Like DaveC I also have a 320S Boondock and wanted to put my Valterra Sewer Expanding Hose Storage Tube at the bottom of the Yakima Rack.  When I held the tube up to the rack the bottom two bolt attachments were about 1 inch below the bottom slides of the rack.  If I could move the rack up a few inches I could then use all four attachment points in the sewer tube into the rack slides.  Hmm.

Likewise, like Dave C, I found that the upper rack mounts upper attachments were bolted through the roof of the camper (see photo here showing a Phillips head through the roof bolt in the upper mount hole, and the hex head Yakima screw in the lower mount hole).


Calling nuCamp I found out the upper bolt IS accessible inside the trailer by removing the two speakers.  First turn the speaker cover screen CCW to remove (and CW to re-install).  After removing the speaker screen you see two screws where you will need a small square shaped screwdriver bit to remove the two speakers.  See the two silver screws in this photo.



Once the two speakers are out and hanging from the wire you will see the through-roof bolt, washer, and nut (see here).  I used a vise grip pliers to hold the nut from turning while I removed the bolt from the outside using a Phillips screwdriver.



You need to use the Yakima key that came with the Boondock to turn the core locks and pull up the rack mount tower covers.  CAUTION: opening all four tower covers will allow the rack to fully disengage from the four towers and the rack with spare tire will slide off the back of the trailer so be careful when opening up the last two tower covers.  Once the tower covers are up carefully lift it and put on the ground.  To reduce the weight I recommend taking off the spare tire first.  A helper would be useful for these steps!

Once the rack was off I translated the upper tower mounts upward so the through roof bolt would now pass through the lower hole of the mount.  I used the sliding nut that was previously used for the lower hole now for the top hole.  When I re-inserted the through-roof bolts into the roof I squirted some RTV in first to keep rain water from getting through those two holes.  nuCamp had done the same thing during the original installation.

Then I loosened and slid the lower two mounts upward the same distance.

I then carefully lowered the rack onto the four mounts, closed the tower covers locking the rack into place, tightened all rack hardware.

Next  I removed the two rack slide end pieces using a square shaped screwdriver bit, slide in four rectangular nuts (I had spare Yakima nuts and cap screws from prior racks), located the Valterra tube over the retangular nuts, and screwed the sewer tube over the two slides using four 3/8-20 screws and washers.

Finally I put the rail end covers back into place and re-tightened.  As you can see here the Valterra tube is now fully engaged into the rack and I did not have to make new holes in the roof for the lower attachment screws.  By the way, I will point out that I also later added a Yakima FrontLoader Universal Roof Rack to the two Yakima round bars and it did not interfere with the sewer storage tube.

DaveC

@CincyKid and others, yes I used the expandable sewer tube, since the distance between the Yakima rails is fixed.  I toyed with moving the rack up, but instead replace the screw in the bottom rail cap with a longer, stainless one to hold the bottom sewer holder mount, then used the Yakima rail plate for the top.

LisaTucson

I'm a brand new RVer and I LOVE this site. And because of this great thread I was able to add the hose carrier to my Yakima Rack, too! I did it a bit differently but got pretty much the same result. Instead of using the hardware from the Yakima rack (through the speaker hole) I used T-bolts that fit into the rack channels.

Materials I used:

2 or 4 T-nuts 1/4-20 5/16 X 3/4 

2 or 4  1/2" machine screws

2 or 4 washers, if needed

1 or 2 5-8” hose clamps

Depending on where your rack is mounted, you may be able to mount all 4 screws on the rack. In my case, I could only mount the top two. If you can mount all four, you may not need a hose clamp, but it will give it extra stability if desired.

Steps:

1.       Mount the sewer hose carrier using the two top T-nuts and bolts. If they will not tighten, add a washer. Do not tighten fully, just enough to hold the carrier steady.

2.       Install the hose clamp in the center or if using two hose clamps, install them equidistant from the edges of the rack. Make sure the location of the screw slot on the hose clamp will be accessible when fully tightened.

3.       Use a level to ensure the sewer hose carrier is level. Tighten the T-nuts and screws. Apply Locktite to ensure the screws do not loosen with vibration.

4.       If desired, bend the excess hose clamp portion or cut off. Apply Locktite to ensure the screw does not loosen with vibration.

Total installation time: 5 minutes.

Total cost of materials: About $3.

P.S. sorry about the order of the photos. I tried to put them in order but I couldn't drag and drop them where I wanted.