Kitchen Faucet Replacement T@B 320 S

HR_Taly

Kitchen Faucet Replacement T@B 320 S (2018 Model/May 2017 purchase)

On the 23rd of December, I was cleaning and rearranging some items in the kitchen cabinet of my T@B.  I full-time, so it's fairly full of items.

I suppose I got a bit cocky and when "efficiently" packing everything back in, I pushed the existing water lines leading into the faucet aside to tuck some items in.  I shortly felt something wet and noticed dripping... uh oh.  Closer inspection revealed that I must have cracked the fitting where the incoming water lines connect to the faucet.  

I considered using superglue or trying to find some other way to fix it.  In the end, because I live full-time in my T@B and it was shortly Christmas where I expected I might not be able to get a replacement on short notice (or end up with a flood), I decided to replace the entire fixture.  Unfortunately, the connectors from the factory installed faucet to the water lines are integrated and not replaceable.

I did some measuring and went to Home Depot.  At first I was looking at the Kitchen faucets and wow... they are all so huge!  Then I realised that bathroom faucets would be the perfect fit.  Also, and this was different in prior years' models, the 2018 T@B is a single-hole fixture which further limited my choices - pretty much you'll need to find one with a single handle.

I found three that would fit, and all were the same price $89, which was more than I was expecting (I guess I don't do much home maintenance!).  The Kohler Worth, the Moen Hensley and the Delta Alux (available at Lowe's).  I went with the Delta Alux just because I liked the style more - I wouldn't really know the brands.

The existing faucet was very easy to remove, once you knew how.  You simply grab the large black plastic ring underneath and hold it steady while you move the fixture above the sink a quarter turn.  This loosens it and I was able to remove/unscrew the black plastic ring underneath by hand without tools, and that released the entire fixture.

The new fixture was easy to put in and the (pre-attached) water lines had plenty of length for the T@B.  I had previously measured it, but there was plenty of room even behind the fixture to ensure it wouldn't be in the way of the window or screen.


I really thought I was on a roll and would have the entire thing done in 15 minutes if... it turns out that the attached water supply lines terminate in 3/8".  The T@B water supply lines are 1/2"!

...back to the hardware store.  I guess no home repair job is complete without at least a second trip back to the hardware store.

At the hardware store, an employee saw me looking at supply lines and asked if he could help.  I had brought the old line and told him I was looking for an adapter.  He told me I'd have to return the faucet and that I couldn't make it work, and I'd need to buy one (nearly $200!) without attached lines and buy them separately. While I was asking him why I couldn't find an adapter, two other men that were just customers jumped in and started all talking over each other at me saying how I'd end up with flooding if I tried to use an adapter.  I was surrounded on all sides... even when I pointed out the shut off values I was told because I had plastic pipes I definitely couldn't use those that they were only for metal pipes and more "did I want to wake up to a flooded house? You are going to flood your home!".  With three men hounding me from all sides aggressively trying to give advice I very nearly ran from the store to escape.

On the way back home, unsure of what to do, I saw another hardware store and stopped in.  I couldn't find an adapter, but I did find a shut off valve that would fit, and I also found a picture on this site about someone else who had installed shut off valves, so I thought I'd give it a try.  I even looked them up online and they can be used for our types of pipes. Ouch, they were nearly $10 each, though.

Finally getting back, I managed (oh, and please, please everyone remember to put the rubber washers from the old pipe connections IN the shut off values which don't come with washers before connecting them to your water supply and turning it on. Don't ask me how I know this!) I've ended up with a very nice if more expensive than I'd planned replacement faucet.

I have to say I rather like it.  It really feels like quality, it's a good height and distance for when I do dishes or fill up the kettle, the water flow is great and I think it may even be more water saving than the standard T@B one (a good quality for me as I normally boondock although I'm currently at an RV park).

I wouldn't say there's anything wrong with the standard faucet, and it was definitely my own error it broke.  But if you are looking for a nice upgrade around $100, this was very easy to do and required almost no tools (I only used a wrench to tighten up the fittings once the new faucet was in place).

Items:

• Delta Alux SpotShield Brushed Nickle 1-Handle Single Hole Bathroom Faucet ($89) 
• Keeney Brass 1/2-in FIP x 3/8-in Compression Quarter Turn Straight Valve ($8.98 each, need 2) 
• Standard adjustable wrench

jgram2

@HR_Taly , Great repair/modification, great tutorial and Great Photos! Thank you for the info and the chuckles.

Sharon_is_SAM

How is your Victron working out?  How is your solar arranged to allow the Victron to monitor?

dragonsdofly

@HR_Taly, kudos. Pat yourself on the back for that repair. For each small step forward you gain invaluable self confidence and experience. Enjoy the feeling. BTW, looks great!

Estancio

Great write up. Several of us have changed out the faucet and know the "fun" of it all, including multiple trips to the hardware store. I find that true local hardware stores are usually more helpful and knowledgeable than the home depot and Lowe's chains...at least where I live. My new faucet is similar to yours and works great after finally getting it set up. Enjoy it in the New Year!

dsfdogs

@HR_Taly I'm so impressed! Thank you for great pictures and detail. I have the same model/year as you. So the guys said don't use an adapter, but the shut off valves are acting as adapters, right? But no worry of leaks with those? Thanks!

ScottG

Nice job, HR_Taly. I'll be referencing your post if I ever end up swapping out my own faucet. Even if you were directly responsible for breaking it, that original plastic-fantastic RV faucet looks pretty delicate to me. Since you had to replace it anyway, going with a real residential fixture was a good move.

It was also clever that you employed the shut-off valves as adapters. I'm a little skeptical that there isn't something out there that would have worked, but finding it in your local hardware store might have been a tall order (particularly amid the gauntlet of helpful "experts"). For future reference, try to find a dedicated plumbing service and supply shop--that's usually where I end up when trying to tackle some non-standard installation! 

cbarnhill

I love the modern, clean look of your new faucet. One question-does it swivel out of the way if you need it to?

HR_Taly

I suppose I should mention that I'm lucky enough to have a Camping World nearby, and they were my first stop.  But they only had very traditional looking faucets and none that would fit the T@B (and they were all really expensive, yet terribly outdated and cheap looking).  When I asked if they could order the one I had, the girl looked at me blankly so I just left.

I also thought I'd very easily be able to order the same one I had from Elsie, but with it being just before Christmas eve I was sure they were closed.  And knowing me, I might do the same thing again to break it.  Although I'm sure it would have been less expensive to replace it with a stock faucet!

To answer some questions:

@SAM I still really like my Victron, I should probably do a separate post about it some day. I've got a queue of them backed up!

@dsfdogs Yes, you've got it - the shut off valves are acting as 3/8" to 1/2" adapters. I understand the concept that any time you introduce more connections/joins you've got a potential for leaks. Yet cut off valves are common around homes (now I'm noticing them everywhere, like on toilets) I can't imagine they are a "risky" piece of equipment. I think, and no offense intended, these men saw a foreign woman enter the shop (and I'm still struggling to get my American accent down) and decided to just kind of show off by scaring me with crazy scenarios.  In retrospect, I'm rather annoyed by it all.

@ScottG I'd agree that the standard fixture seems a bit delicate, but I think it is fit for purpose for the normal T@B user, which is the frequent weekend or week long holiday a few times a year.  I've spent every day in my T@B since I picked it up in July... that's a few years worth of use in a short period of time! And yes, I 100% agree with you.  I wish I knew the area enough to have found a local hardware shop or I probably should have gone to a dedicated plumping supply shop!

@cbarnhill the faucet I purchased doesn't swivel although I'm sure you could probably engineer a little caster to make it do so.  But I use it constantly throughout the day and since I put it in (which has just been a bit over a week) I've found it less in the way than the original. I haven't had any issues doing dishes, or even placing my progressive dishworks dish drainer in the sink when doing dishes. The angle of the new fixture is even much nicer for filling up my kettle, which is something that happens all day long

Smullis7

Thanks for the great tutorial on this mod.  I was also told by Lowes that I could only replace the faucet with one from Camping World, but now I know different.  Love the new faucet.

ChanW

Great write up @HR_Taly. Thanks for that!

I looked into replacing the sink faucet once (never did), ours is a two or three hole faucet, and I found that the holes were spaced the same as a 'wet bar' sink fixture. When I started doing searches for that specific type of fixture, I found quite a few possibilities, swivel-type included. Note that many have tall spigots, which wouldn't work with the Tab's sloped front.

Michigan_Mike

Good stuff, excellent write-up and this is the type of write-up that will help others out down the road, especially with the helpful photos.  

Well done!  

Newbomb_Turk

Great post, @HR_Taly !

And thanks for the incredibly clear directions!  Thanks to you, I was able to make the same upgrade this weekend with NO additional trips to the hardware store!*

*Until I did the high-altitude regulator installation, but that's another story...)

drazilgod

Thanks so much for posting this with all your details and pictures. You inspired me to replace mine today, we used a Delta 15766LF-SP from Lowes. Without using shutoff valves, we found 1/2 inch FIP to faucet adapters. As careful as I was, the T@B's 1/2 adapter leaked due to a (probably less than perfectly installed) loose PEX crimp. Cut that off, one shark bite connector later, and all is good.
Thanks again.

Ppapavero

I also swapped out the stock faucet (in our '18 320s) to the Delta faucet shown. Found the adapters needed at Lowe's. Use the washers from the stock hoses.Thanks to the OP for the idea and doing the research.

HR_Taly

@Ppapavero thanks!!  They is exactly what I was looking for when I ended up with the shut off valves.  This is great as your screenshot has the model number, too! Thanks for updating

BrianZ

Thanks, @HR_Taly, your documentation & persistence to find the right parts are well done & inspiring!  Normal faucets, like your replacement, have replaceable cartridges, so it's better (& normal) to have shut-off valves under the sink anyway for when you may want to replace the cartidge (though we don't really have to crawl under the house to turn the water off). 

You inspired me to replace the cheap stock plastic faucet.  I never liked its strange & limited spout movement (though I guess if it were to move during travel, the stock spout is designed to move downwards to a safe position).

Sometimes I would like to cover half the sink with a cutting board, while still being able to run water in the other side, so I installed a swiveling spout model.  The swivel action is fairly stiff, so I think it should be fine during normal travel, but it does have a 360° range, so could possibly go into the window, or maybe even out the window if you wanted. 🤪

One extra tube I think, but everything went smoothly, thanks to your tips.

It cost almost twice as much, unfortunately, but to me it was worth it, since the swivel action was my main reason for replacing it.  The handle action is similar to the stock one - as shown, the handle pulls out to the right at an angle to turn on cold water, or rotate straight upwards for full hot.

Photomom

@BrianZ, what faucet did you use?

BrianZ

@Photomom, I ordered the "Delta 559HA-DST Trinsic Single-Handle Bathroom Faucet" for $163 on Amazon.  I didn't realize it came with a drain fixture I didn't need, so if you could get it without drain, it might be cheaper.
PS:
This is the chrome version, which is cheapest.  The brushed nickel, etc, cost significantly more.

Photomom

BrianZ said:

I ordered the "Delta 559HA-DST Trinsic Single-Handle Bathroom Faucet" for $163 on Amazon.  I didn't realize it came with a drain fixture I didn't need, so if you could get it without drain, it might be cheaper.

What is the third hose under the sink in your picture?

i think bathroom faucets typically come with a drain pop up.

BrianZ

Good question - third hose delivers the hot/cold water mix from valve to the faucet.  I assume they make it that way in swivel faucets to reduce the chance of leaks, because it allows the thin tube to rotate itself under the sink when the faucet is swiveled.  Not sure why it comes in two segments, which you plug together & are locked with the blue clip.  Maybe easier to package that way?

BrianZ

Forgot to say that the hardware seems very solid & well made, heavy even, considering its fairly small size.  It appears to have an aerator in the spout tip & comes with a special key tool (yellow in first photo) for removing it for cleaning.  I still have to leak test my work today, but will be interested to see if the aerator helps prevent splashing, as I  expect it should.

PS:
One tip I can offer is to pay close attention to the position of the large C-shaped metal plate that goes under the tightening nut, because it can rotate out of position as you tighten.  If one "point" of the "C" ends up over the hole instead of over solid wood, the the faucet may end up tilted to one side instead of vertical.  You can check by feeling it with fingertips just before final tightening, because it would not be easy to view directly.

Gidget

**Update to post:** Had to return the first posted faucet to Amazon. Beautiful quality but wouldn't allow me to install a faucet mounted water purifier (Culligan, in this case)... so I've since purchased this which isn't as nearly as pretty but appears to allow installation of my Culligan. We shall see; I get it on Thursday.


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I've just bought this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMR1YH/ ... less expensive than most and VERY similar in looks to what @HR_Taly installed. Going to attempt the installation per her incredibly detailed post (and the installation video noted on the product detail page! Wish me luck!!! And THANK YOU for the inspiration the detailed experience, @HR_Taly !!!!

NHCraig

Adding another thank you to @HR_Taly, especially for the tip about using the gaskets from the existing hoses in the new valves!  Just replaced with a similar faucet and we love it.  Only tip I'd pass on is that since the valves (or adapters, if you use them) are metal and the fitting coming in is plastic, I had to thread them on very carefully to be sure they were aligned properly.  The metal thread seems to have its way if you don't, and I had some small drips until I got them perfectly straight.  Beyond that, it's a pretty simple replace, as all have said.

PoodleMayhem

I'm so excited to have found this thread!  I replaced my faucet today.  Followed the instructions above.  Had a little trouble getting the hoses detached from the original fixture, but installing the new one was easy.  Such a nice upgrade!  Thanks, @HR_Taly for the detailed post!  And thanks to all for the additional tips!

Blpseabolt

What if you don't need the hot water? Our tab 320 doesn't have a hot water tank. Thanks. Barb 

Sharon_is_SAM

What year TaB do you have?

davel4wa

What am I looking at in your photo showing what looks like a white PVC adapter along with the compression hose fitting from your new faucet? Does it have a thread on the outside. It doesn't show up in the photo but since you put the shutoff shutoff valve on it, I suppose it must. I wonder if that white PVC part is just another adapter perhaps to the 1/2" 'pex' plumbing. The original hose connections to the faucet assembly have typical pex stainless steel crimp type rings. The crimp tool is fairly pricey so unless you already have one it would be an investment you probably wouldn't want to make for this project. As others have pointed out there are adapters available for the 1/2" to 3/8" conversion but having shutoff valves is a plus. 

ScottG

@davel4wa, that fitting looks like the same one I replaced behind the toilet wall. You are correct that it is a standard 1/2" MNPT threaded fitting on one side with a 1/2" PEX crimp/clamp connection on the other. It's a pretty standard fitting.

davel4wa

Interesting that your fitting uses the copper crimp ring and the other was stainless. Each type uses a different crimping tool. Strange manufacturing choice.

ScottG

Good catch, @davel4wa--I noted that as well. If you look closely at HR-Taly's and BrianZ's photos, you will see that the copper crimp rings are used at the connector you asked about. The steel clamp rings only appear to be used at the connection to the faucet.

Perhaps the faucet connections are assembled elsewhere, or perhaps the steel clamp rings work better since the faucet connecting hoses are not actually PEX tubing.

For actual PEX connections, both copper crimp rings and steel clamp rings are considered equally effective, provided they are properly installed.