Making My New Keyless RV Lock Work

Bert

I sure hope someone can help me install the Keyless RV lock in my 2016 Tab Outback Max S. I was able to get the pieces in place, but the door barely closes and the dead bolt won't work. Even when we remove the door's striker plate, we can't make the deadbolt work.  My wife was thinking that I should cut out the aluminum in the long side of opening closest to the inside of the trailer (top photo). I don't know what I would use to make a clean, straight cut in the aluminum, or how much to remove if I did, or which side I should really be working on. No one else in this forum seemed to run into problems when installing the keyless lock, so I figured it was child's play. Fool's play, maybe. Hope not.

4ncar

It does look as though the flat of the latch is too close to the edge. Is the original this close when in place?

rcuomo

It doesn't look seated correctly in the door jam. Mine is mounted slightly higher.  Try loosening the screws and moving it up so the bottom of the lock is 1/16" higher.  I had to clean out some of the caulking to get mine to fit correctly.

Bert

rcuomo--THANKS! That was it. I pushed and jiggled before setting the screws. Now it works properly. Nothing like the Tab-rv forum for getting help with all problems Tab!

Bert

Still struggling to keep the keyless lock working. The lock can move out as you see pictured here. I assume that's one of the reasons we had to end our trip early because we could no longer close the door from the inside. I wish I could figure out why I can't make this lock/door handle work and everyone else seems not to have problems. Considering reinstalling original lock.Suggestions?

Campwise

This spring (2019) we had the same problem of not being able to latch or lock from the inside of our t@b 320S with a newly installed RVLock.  After much fiddling, I tried replacing the strike plate and that did the trick.  This replacement strike plate looks different from the one our t@b came with, which was flat with no curve on the long edges.  The door now latches and locks easily from inside and out.   

Lippert 314301 Standard Baggage Doord Latch Strike / Amazon $5.80

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S2IF0TS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another issue we had:

RVLock V4.0 – RIGHT Hand with Integrated Keypad for RV www.rvlock.com/products/rvlock-v4-0-w-integrated-keypad-for-rvs  Glad we changed to this lock, it’s great.  But it was tedious dealing with an initially faulty unit that took many weeks of trouble shooting by phone with the manufacturer.  Finally a tech determined the problem was a faulty circuit board. They sent a new one that was fairly easy to replace and now it's fine. 

As others have noted, when entering the trailer the lock works best when we push gently against the outside of the door above or below the lock with one hand while opening the latch, and also to fully latch it closed.  It's second nature now.  We mostly use the touch pad, occasionally the remote, and never use the key.   

As suggested on another post, I cut and added two layers of electrical tape just big enough to cover the internal speaker depression before putting the unit in the door.  This did a great job of quieting the confirmation beeps, which are helpful to still be able to hear, just not so loudly.  Pics show the little holes of the speaker tape free, then covered. 

Bert

I gave up on the Keyless RV Lock and replaced the original lock. It's not great, but at least I can close the door from the inside.