We wanted to be able to hold the lid up on the back shelf compartment and be able to close it without slamming. This lid stay does the job for us..
Sugatsune, Lamp SDS-C301N/BLK Lid Stays, Plastic, Black,White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKFSVJEBelow is a link to my video of the above, showing the shelf lifted up, where it locks in the up position, and stays there until pushing down on it briefly until it starts to close, then it gently closes on its own (you must not force it closed)...
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AurmLbSsLkUDyUGE8FWxOHf4MRQmI wasn't sure how well it would work with the stock plastic hinges, so I installed metal hinges first. It's a challenge to decipher the instructions to find the exact right locations to install at top & bottom, but I can provide the measurements of the screw locations I used, if anyone is interested. I only needed one lid stay, so it can be installed at either right or left. If you're a lefty, you may want to install it on the right side, to make predrilling & screwing easier, otherwise maybe choose whichever side hits the ceiling first. Make sure the shelf moves freely & does not scrape or bind against adjoining wood framing (especially if replacing hinges).
Comments
Here are the hinges I used:
And source...
I used 3 of the 4 hinges in the bottom row of the picture immediately above, which had the same hole spacing as the installed plastic ones. I'm not sure these are absolutely required, but I thought they would be more secure for using the lid stay. Plastic ones may work fine, but I never tried it.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Also check to be sure there is enough space above the top bracket to fit the top edge of the double thick plywood layers in the front wall of the cabinet.
4 screws, measured from top edge & back edge.
I would suggest just doing the top & bottom screws first, located at 1.5x2" & 1.5x3", and test for fit of the top bracket location (to verify lid is all the way up), then secure the top, then do remaining front & back screws on the lower bracket.
The lid stay arm fits into the top bracket by holding it sideways at 90°, then lower the body of it to snap it in place at the top, and put the gear wheel onto the lower bracket hub & fasten body with supplied mounting bolt. Push lid down only to get it started. They warn not to force it all the way down, or you might break the mechanism. It lowers itself by using the weight of the lid.
PS: Note extra thick front wall needs to fit above the top bracket.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Great setup. We've been looking for something that can serve as a hold open but most of the hardware we have looked at doesn't work in such a confined space. We'll be giving this a try. Thanks for the measurements....
Earl & Sue | Central NY |
2017 T@B 320S | TV: Chevy Silverado
Same size & hole spacing as the plastic ones, but metal.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
PS:
I just noticed that I have two knobs leftover in that package of shutter hinges. Maybe those could be screwed into wood somewhere to hang something?
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Also, I like the mesh under the cabinets. If you have a chance please post a few pictures on how that is attached.
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6927/boondock-style-cargo-nets/p1
Or search on "cargo nets".
Scroll down - photo showing mounting is at the bottom. Source is www.organizedobie.com, and I believe that one is the 8" x 48" Barrier Stretch Cargo Net. The 8" ones come with the larger hooks. Smaller ones use plastic loops, like wire hangers.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Very nifty lid stay. Thanks @BrianZ for the idea, great instructions and video! Doubt I could have figured out the placement from the instructions in the package. The DW is super happy she doesn't have to hold the lid open with her head anymore. And the best part is that there is no more slamming lid as the soft touch close works very well, yeah! (Left the original plastic hinges in place. They seem to work okay with the lid stay.)
There is something satisfying about watching it slowly & silently close. 😊
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
I found a use for the other style hinges (below) included in the shutter hinge kit shown above.
I plan to use them in this manner for the passenger side under-seat storage lid. It may require a spacer between the lid & hinge such that it will lay flat, if the lid is thinner than the hinge height. Later I'll add a lid stay of some sort, maybe the ones I plan to remove from cabinets above the stove, after those hinges are replaced with the ones that hold those doors open higher.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Thanks again for sharing.
PS: While I was back in that area I went ahead and pulled the box out and took about a 1/4" off the top of the back so that the heat will have an easier time of reaching the cabin. Mine came with at most a 1/8 inch gap between the back and the roof. If that doesn't help I'll probably put a computer fan or two back there same as the front one.
John
Chevrolet Colorado ZR2
Duramax Diesel
Nevada
It’s raining out and I decided I have time to revisit this. I have the Tab without storage there and looking down, I can see the heat vents. I don’t want to block this off naturally, so I bought 4 18” baskets to mount in this space ..
We will have toasty socks and undies when it’s cold.. grin...
Then on to the panel top. I’m cutting it into three parts. On the left and right will be hinge doors, and a small permanent space in the middle where we keep our Goal Zero charger.
The board right now is a tight fit, so should I sand the back edge to make a 1/16 inch space or so? Second, your hinges are exposed, but after doing some studying, even without mortizing in the hinge, most show them doing it so only the joint shows...
Sorry its dark, it’s captured video... Anyway, what do you think? When you put your hinges in, did you put in a spacer for small gap?
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
You could also use the shutter hinges pictured above where I used the dashed yellow line drawing, since it provides extra screw holes & support underneath the board.
I managed to lighten up your screenshot in my photo editor..
You said your board is a tight fit, but is that with or without the hinge in there as shown above? If included, you might get by with some aggressive sanding or/and a rasp; otherwise, you'll probably need to either rip some off with a saw or shave with a plane. Better to have it a little on the loose side than too snug, since higher humidity could make it too tight. Still trying to picture how you're going to mount wire baskets.
Good luck! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
These are are the right side. There are two more to the left. I will firm these up with some of those white plastic hooks I used for my upper shelving.
Now on my panel, in default mode it lay across the space with a small screw holding it down. Last year I had added a couple of vents to it. It was snug along its length, thus my question about ripping a smidge off of it. I’ll have to remove the vents to do that...
My panel has has developed a slight bow. I thought I’d turn it over, put it on two horses and have a weight in the middle.
Btw, after panel removal, looking down the opening...
Im thinking I might do the exposed hinge as your picture shows. In the meantime, football game is on, so a break is called for...
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
A couple more points..
● If you're cutting the top into 3 separate hinged lids, the lid stay I used probably will not work, as it needs the weight of the full lid (and ours has more wood with a sturdy lip/frame piece on the front edge that keeps it from warping).
So you may need to consider some other kind of lid stay, like the bending spring method or some hinges with built-in springs that can support the lids when open.
● I wonder how close the bottom of your baskets are to the heater elements and what the max temperature is of those elements; as you don't want to create a fire hazard by storing something flammable directly ovhazard. A layer of fireproof insulating material on the bottom of the baskets could help if there was any issue. My guess is it shouldn't be a problem, but it might be handy for making some instant oatmeal too - put it in there with your socks & wake up to instant oatmeal!. 😉
Here's how I was suggesting using shutter type hinges for the concealed hinge look..
With the smaller part of the hinge against the back wall & maybe an optional spacer block of 1/4" plywood under it for more gap in the back. Red things are supposed to be screws. You could also put a spacer block under the lid, if that part of the hinge is too tall & sticks up too high.
I think your smaller lids should alleviate the warping issue, especially with 3 pairs of hinges across the back for support.
Looks like a great mod, provided there's no fire hazzard. I look forward to seeing the finished results.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
My my wife didn’t like my unplanned kerf on either side of the middle piece, so I added a strip to each door to cover them. I cranked the Alde up to over 3, and the thermometer never went over 110 in the basket. So no worry there. I liked your latch and also found many similar ones. I’ll have to mull this one over...
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Looks like you have found a very nice and workable solution for adding extra storage.
That kerf you mentioned can be a challenge on finished plywood. Don't know if you used masking tape on it while cutting, but that can help prevent splintering, along with a finer tooth saw blade.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
But what I really wanted was this one.... but it was $28 a unit...
https://youtu.be/imwkOWTV1L8
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
The black rectangles seen are the bottom sides of my add on vents, which I initially figured wouldn’t be seen and now they are. Not too ugly though. Function over form...
Thanks Brian, for the initial idea.
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
😉
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods