TaB 400 Dinette Table Modification

Denny16

No problem, and yes, I was figuring on a 1-inch table, but an additional 1/2 inch should be doable.
cheers

Tundra57

@Denny16. I can just do it. Including the inch setback.

It's cut now and the leg refitted. Just have to get the hinges. I noticed you routed for the hinge. Does it not work without?

Denny16

You can go either way, depends on the hinges being used.  Butt hinges on the bottom should work without routing them in, the drop end will just hang down a bit more.
cheers

Tundra57

I went with the piano hinge and extra screws. It works right now. I am varnishing the cut I made then I'll vatnish the bottom which is unvarnished just got the sale of longevity (keeping it clean,). It certainly is heavy and made of high quality plywood.

The hinges are cut from a strip from home Depot. Their door hinges were too wobbly for my liking. At some stage I'll get some better quality piano hinges.

But I do like it. I undercut the table so the flap is about an inch back for seating comfort as you suggested.

I am in process of coming up with some kind of catch to hold the leaf down. I think maybe a slice of plastic cable trunking bolted to the bottom of the leaf of the right width will clamp around the leg nicely.

Thanks for the support with this project.

Denny16

Grand, glad you got it sorted.  The plastic cable or a small bungee cord would work nicely.
post a few photos of your completed mod.
cheers

gande

I posted some pics last summer that got deleted because of size. I think I’ve corrected that problem here. 

I made my table with a removable leaf because I thought the drop down leaf would get in the way when sliding into the seats. It also substantially reduce is the weight of the table when the leaf is separated.

ChrisFix

gande said:

I posted some pics last summer that got deleted because of size. I think I’ve corrected that problem here. 

I made my table with a removable leaf because I thought the drop down leaf would get in the way when sliding into the seats. It also substantially reduce is the weight of the table when the leaf is separated.

That's a creative way to approach this.
How is the leaf secured to the table (besides the pins that fit into the holes shown in the picture)? I like the idea of getting it out of the way from your legs, as you note in your comment. 

gande

Here’s a picture of the underside of the table. 

I used the same slide supports as everybody else. I also used four dowels to keep everything lined up properly and a 4 dollar  window catch from Home Depot to hold the leaf tight against the table.

ChrisFix

@gande
Thanks for that photo...
If you don't mind me asking, what are the wooden cleats for?

gande

@ChrisFix ... the sliding arms of the support brackets are just stamped steel and have some sharp edges. The wooden cleats are more comfortable and help protect your legs. 

I tend to overbuild things. If you notice, I also dipped the hooked pulls on the ends of the supports in Plasti-Dip to protect your fingers. 

Denny16

You could have just made the Wooden cleats slide in slots with a friction fit and eliminated the metal brackets.
cheers

Tundra57

I finished my version of the mod today using the standard table. It came out Ok for me.  I'm no carpenter.

Tundra57

Here it is underneath.

Denny16

Came out great, nice to know the table is Birch Ply, so the finished edge looks great.
You did a very nice job.
My only suggestion is, when you upgrade to a better (stainless is nice) piano hinge, use flat head screws 1/8-inch shorter than the table thickness.  This gives plenty of bite, and will not poke out on the top.  Is the spacer MDF or ?  A nice bit of birch ply would match the table bether.

Cheers

gspdx

@Tundra57 I have seen carpenters do work that isn't that nice.  Looks great.

We did a bathroom remodel last year and got a custom vanity built.  The design was really nice and it really fit in with the design of our new bathroom (gutted the old bathroom, removed 100 year old built ins, clawfoot tub and pedestal sink, moved door and toilet).  But I was shocked when we they installed it.  The craftsmanship just wasn't what I had expected.  I have built cabinets myself that are in our house that are better.  Went around with him a few times to get it fixed and I wouldn't recommend!

Anyway - you don't need to call yourself a carpenter to do good work!

Tundra57

@Denny16 The spacer is a piece of synthetic decking I think. It doesn't look like MDF. But yes it could be replaced for a nicer look. The hinges are brass plated steel. All the screws are actually 1 1/4 " and the ply is 1 1/2" plus they are designed for plywood so have a sharp coarse thread the head is large and flat like a built in washer to spread the weight over the hinge as the hinge is not deep enough to use countersunk.

Thankyou for you nice comments. :-)

Tundra57

@gspdx thanks for your nice comments. :-)

Denny16

OK, good idea about fastening the hinges...
cheers

Tundra57

Nice idea but I'm not paying the price required for a carpenter when I can produce a possible result.plus I get a sense of achievement.

I did make all the cabinets and doors wy wife designed for the kitchen and installed everything myself, learning as I went along. It came out pretty good. Thanks for the thought tho. If I had to rely on an expert to actually do stuff, most things would be out of my pockets reach.

Are you saying my result was so terrible compared to yours I should need a carpenter for real? I'm sure that's not what you meant. :-)

Denny16

No, no I was not.  Your job came out very nice, a very professional job.  I would put it up there with a finish carpenters work.   In the photo you posted, the leg spacer looked like MDF, my bad.

I was replying to the other post by gdspx, who had a bathroom remodel done that was not up to his expectations.  Sorry, I should have quoted him in my reply.

Tundra57

@Denny16 That's the problem with texting you can't tell the emotion involved and sometimes they get out of synch. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Keep safe.

Denny16

No worries, stay safe too.
cheers

KFarrior

its an awesome ides. could you give detailed instructions and materials, and where you got them into one post. id have ti hire someone to do the mod for me. this would be perfect since more times than not i camp alone. also. how does it work in making the bed config.  thank you. 

Tundra57

@KFarrior Which mod method are you referring to? Cutting the original table or having a new hinged one made?

Slyden9821

I love it! How much would it be if you would make one for my 400 including parts, labor and shipping to Charlotte, NC? 

Slyden9821

If you would rather contact me via email that’s fine.

jenniferlzr

Very nice! If the table is 7/8 thick, did you just add a piece of wood under the table attachments that hook into the wall?

rhyno

Tundra57 said:

I finished my version of the mod today using the standard table. It came out Ok for me.  I'm no carpenter.

What did you use to make your cut?