T@b 400 Door Lock

BigGrover

When they put the new door on my 400 it came with a new lock that I am having issues with.  It takes several attempts with the key before it locks.  I turn it to the lock position but have to turn the key back to vertical in order to remove the key.  It takes three or four tries before it stays locked.  Anyone else having this issue or know of a fix?

NorthIsUp

My 400's door lock does require the key to be in the vertical position to remove it. But, turning to the left catches the lock the first time. 

peterjoce400

Have you tried adjusting the two screws that catch the door lock?  Ours required the lower one being screwed further in and then the lock functioned perfectly.

BigGrover

I will try it, i emailed Nucamp and asked to talk with a technician  about it.  They forwarded my email to a tech and he had them send me a whole new latch assembly, inner and outer handles, striker plate and tumbler with keys but no directions were included.  

TheNutshell

We had the same problem with our 400. Found some 3-in1 Lock Dry Lube at Walmart. Squirted with straw right in keyhole sliding the plate to the side and it worked like a charm. Now locks first time every time. Good luck.

BigGrover

Peterjoce400, what problem were you having with your door?

BigGrover

TheNutshell

I tried that  The problem appears to be the striker plate.  The door frame is out of plumb perpendicularly.  The frame is a good 1/4" wider at the latch than it is above or below it.  The dealer didn't do a good job when they replaced the door.  When I went to pick it up they had over torqued the screws on the left side and actually bowed the door frame.  It was about an inch wider at the latch than it is now.  I refused to accept it and insisted they call Nucamp tech for advice on how to fix it.  They may have tried shimming it but now the striker plate can't be adjusted to where I can get it to lock properly .  The best I can tell, the latch is rubbing on the striker plate which prevents the lock from properly engaging.  I spent about two hours yesterday trying to get it right but had no success.  I even installed the new latch and handle assembly Nucamp sent me but it did the same thing. The next step would be to file or grind on the striker plate opening.  

peterjoce400

Big Grover:  We were having problems locking the door when inside, and then we noticed that the door was not quite sealed at bottom.  When I adjusted the 2 bolts that latch the door, our door fully sealed and the lock worked well both inside and out.  Having said that, I was just at the r.v. dealer the other day as our unit is being winterized and such, and I had a problem unlocking and locking the door and I suspect the technicans ham fisted it.  I have to wait till I get it home to see. 

kaylevine1

I had that issue but it seems to have worked itself out and lately does not do that any more-maybe just needs broken in

peterjoce400

A followup to this lock thing.  Picking up the trailer from winterization at the r.v. shop today, they had closed the door and locked it earlier in morning.  Then couldn't reopen the door even though the lock was operating properly.  Turns out it was those same two bolts that slide into the striker plate.  They were slowly turning each time door was opened and closed until they finally jammed the door tightly closed.  It took a very flexible and slim technician to shimmy through the outside hatch (passenger side of course!) to get inside to open that door without damage to the lock, frame or door.  Hopefully locktite on the bolts will keep them from turning.    

jgram2

I’m sorry for laughing, it’s just the visual! So glad it was solved.Tabbers with wee children should perhaps drill for this kind of event.

BigGrover

Were the screws working their way into the door or out? 

peterjoce400

BigGrover:  not sure but seems they were turning in.  Our doorlock has been working fine this week since they were reset. "Touch Wood!!"