2018 T@B 320 S Boondock Edition Winterization Schematic

I put this together today. Check it out and hopefully you find it helpful. Please do your own research. I prepared this for my use.
Mr. T@Bmourine Man at your service.

Comments

  • DougHDougH Member Posts: 1,110
    Nice!

    This probably doesn't matter if using the pink stuff, but...

    If you leave 1 and 4 open during the blow-out process, might the lines around 2 and 5 not get blown clear as much?  Compressed air might prefer to head out drains if that's the path of least resistance?  We're only talking a few drops though since it should all drain out as the Alde slowly drains. 

    After your step 1, I close the drain valves (1, 4) and blow the hot and cold taps dry one at a time (toilet, exterior shower, shower, sink).  Then I bypass the Alde (closing 2, 5 and opening 3) and do the pink stuff, but only if in the artic.  Doing it in that order gives you enough pressure at 20psi to dry the various taps instead of most air heading out the drains.

    But that change in order might only apply for the folks who exclusively blow out the units without using pink stuff in the lines.

    2021 Jeep Gladiator, 2021 tiny toy hauler, Austin TX
    Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max

  • patrickwilsonpatrickwilson Member Posts: 3
    Thanks DougH. I think if you drain as much out as you can, and one method I use is to open the valves, hook up and head to a park to empty the tanks. All the bouncing around, up and down helps shake 'er loose. You could close 4, hit with air. Close 1 and open 4. Hit it with air. Close 1 and 4, hit with air and go faucet by faucet. You do want to close 2 and 5 then open 3 for the pink stuff. I am in Iowa, it isn't arctic but it feels pretty cold in January and February. I will use the pink stuff because for the $4 it costs for a couple gallons, that is cheap insurance. Thanks again.
    Mr. T@Bmourine Man at your service.
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