Some advice on my camper

Michealbraunstein

I finally found my dream set up! Unfortunately, how so often, my camper is probably a bit too heavy for my truck. I was wondering whether will it break my camper tie down. My truck´s payload is at 2580 lbs (Dodge Ram 2500 from 2003), my camper´s wet weight is around 2400 lbs. That sounded great, but I know, you still have to calculate everything else within (food, all the books, spare gasoline, the passengers,), probably another 800 lbs. So I´m far over. What can I do to still haul my camper safely? (Pls don't tell me to sell any of both) Which suspension support would you recommend for my truck? Any other tips. Furthermore, on my tires is written: max. load single 1450 kg. what does that mean? It also says "load range ". I hope they are good enough for what I wanna do. Thanks for your help guys,

Mouseketab

I think your numbers are off. If I'm not mistaken, a Ram 2500 is a 3/4 ton truck which should have a pretty hefty tow rating. Payload is the maximum weight you can put "in" the truck. What you really need to find is the Gross Combined Weight Rating, subtract the weight of the truck, passengers, gear, and fuel, then that is what you have left over for towing. From this website, http://dodgeram.info/2003/load-tow/2500.html the lowest GCWR I found is 15,000 lbs. The max Gross Vehicle Weight rating is 9,000 lbs. So if your truck is at the max of 9,000 lbs, then at the least you would have 6,000 lbs of towing left. I think you are good with a 2400 lb trailer. (What is the max weight on your trailer?) The net weight is with the trailer completely empty.

Mouseketab

Oh wait, are you looking at slide in truck campers? If that's the case ignore what I just said.

Homebodyatheart

@Michealbraunstein would you clarify exactly what camper/type/model you are thinking of? It would help us answer your questions. Thanks!

N7SHG_Ham

Have you loaded everything and weighed the vehicle on a scale? If over, you either risk it or reduce weight. Sure you can add air bags, etc. so you don't sag BUT no matter what you do, there is no way "legally" to exceed what the manufacturer rates a vehicle at. There are a ton of things that go into that rating, frame, axles, springs, engine, cooling, tires and so on.

The tire rating you mention is the maximum weight that tire can handle in a single tire configuration vs dual. So that equates to 3197 pounds each so you can't load any individual tire more than that. Usually the back axle is loaded heavier than front with a load in the bed, so you could put 6394 pounds maximum on a single axle with those tires assuming even side to side weight distribution. Again, you can't exceed what the manufacturer says the axle is capable of nor the tire rating to remain safe and legal.

All your vehicle specific ratings should be on a sticker on the vehicle (usually a door jam) and it will give the GVWR and front and rear axle ratings, not much you can do to increase those, but you might be able to gain more tire rating with an upgrade, but that does no good if you are maxed on the chassis.

MuttonChops

@Michealbraunstein situation does not look promising.  As @N7SHG_Ham has noted there is nothing you can do to increase the Truck capacity.  You must reduce the load . . . which is difficult, expect most of us under estimate how much extra weight (gear) we place in our vehicles & camper/trailer.

Another thing to consider.  Let's say you redo your calculation using different 'door sticker' numbers and come out at the Truck maximum but not over.  Now you are operating the Truck at it's limit - - - performance will be poor; slow acceleration, extended braking distance, low MPG, poor hill climbing.  All of this will create a risky situation for both Truck systems and road safety.

IMHO- - Upgrade the Truck (as in get a different one) or change to a lighter camper.

Bigdog

Have a look at this site http://www.truckcamperadventure.com/

you will find all the answers you need. I thought about getting a slide in camper myself, but guess i will go for a t@b 320 boondock instead. This is the Tab Forum. 

atlasb

We had a slide in truck mounted camper years ago and loved it.  We could jack it up, unload the camper and use the truck when camping.  We looked for a truck camper before we landed on a LG 5 wide tear drop several years ago.  that led us to present time with a T@B 400 and Nissan truck.  What slide in campers we found were going to need a dually and big engine in a truck and we did not want to go that way.  It all comes down to what works for what you want to do.  Keep up the search and you hopefully will find what works for you.

jgram2

@Michealbraunstein Do I understand your Original Post (OP) correctly  - you already have the 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 and a slide in camper? If so, is it the NüCamp Cirrus truck camper? 

Michealbraunstein

Homebodyatheart said:

@Michealbraunstein would you clarify exactly what camper/type/model you are thinking of? It would help us answer your questions. Thanks!

Model 86FB is 8’6” in length, with a queen-sized North/South bed, mirrored double sliding door wardrobe, and ample storage.

Michealbraunstein

MuttonChops said:

@Michealbraunstein situation does not look promising.  As @N7SHG_Ham has noted there is nothing you can do to increase the Truck capacity.  You must reduce the load . . . which is difficult, expect most of us under estimate how much extra weight (gear) we place in our vehicles & camper/trailer.

Another thing to consider.  Let's say you redo your calculation using different 'door sticker' numbers and come out at the Truck maximum but not over.  Now you are operating the Truck at it's limit - - - performance will be poor; slow acceleration, extended braking distance, low MPG, poor hill climbing.  All of this will create a risky situation for both Truck systems and road safety.

IMHO- - Upgrade the Truck (as in get a different one) or change to a lighter camper.

Thank you. Will do a redo on my calculations thank you.